Monday, November 23, 2009

SEMINYAK : nightlife center

The next town north of Legian, Seminyak is more upmarket with mostly luxury accommodation and fashionable high-end restaurants and bars to serve its residents. The atmosphere is much more sophisticated and laid-back than Kuta, and the beach in particular is quieter during the day. Seminyak is also the high end spa and boutique shopping capital of Bali.

It is hard to imagine that only ten years ago this was a distinctly separate village and something of a backwater. In recent years development has occurred at an astonishing pace and as well as absorbing all green space which formerly separated Seminyak from Legian, it is now almost impossible to determine where Seminyak ends and the nearby villages of Petitenget, Umalas and Kerobokan begin.

How to get in

By car
Seminyak is part of the main west coast connurbation in South Bali and it can get very congested with traffic. There are two main routes in. From Kuta and Legian, Jalan Legian runs parallel with the beach and at its western limit, becomes Jalan Seminyak. If at all possible try to avoid this road though and take instead the eastern bypass called Jalan Sunset. This is almost invariably the quicker route from Kuta and Legian into Seminyak although it is actually further in distance.

A prepaid taxi from the airport to Seminyak costs a fixed Rp 60,000 (ignore the touts). Trips to or from Kuta cost around Rp 30,000 and from Legian about Rp 20,000.

The streets of Seminyak are increasingly jammed with Jalan Laksmana being a particular black-spot. Your best options here are to walk or hire a motorcycle/bicycle.

A number of roads in Seminyak have alternative names. Whilst this issue is not exclusive to Seminyak it does happen here more than anywhere else in Bali. There follows a list of road names with the most popular given first and the alternatives afterwards in brackets.
Jalan Arjuna (Jalan Double Six, Jalan 66)
Jalan Raya Seminyak (Jalan Raya Basangkasa)
Jalan Dhyana Pura (Jalan Caplak Tanduk)
Jalan Laksmana (Jalan Oberoi, Jalan Kayu Aya)
Jalan Pantai Legian (Jalan Blue Ocean)
Jalan Mertanadi (Jalan Penjara)

What you can see

Petitenget Beach. A gorgeous expanse of black sand stretching in both directions as far as the eye can see. The sunsets here are famous.
Pura Petitenget, Jl Petitenget (near beach). A compact, but pretty Balinese temple, which is known for particularly spectacular ceremonies.

What you can do

Seminyak is the high-end spa capital of Bali. Your spa experience here will be one of great luxury in a sophisticated setting. You pay up for all of that of course but the prices are still 50% cheaper or more than you would pay in western countries.

If you are staying in one of Seminyak's high end hotels there will undoubtedly be an in-house spa service. If you are staying in a villa, then in-villa treatments will almost certainly be offered - check with the staff.
Amoaras Spa, Jl Laksmana 57, ☎ +62 361 731129 Traditional Balinese massage and treatments in a well established spa edit
Glo, Kunti Plaza , Jl Kunti 119, ☎ +62 361 738689 (info@glogarage.com). A self styled hip spa offering many different treatments. Positions itself to appeal to younger clientele than many of Bali's spa establishemnts.
Jari Menari (Dancing Fingers), Jl Raya Seminyak, ☎ +62 361 736 740 (jarimenari@jarimenari.com). Superb massage centre in Seminyak. The team who set up Jari Menari consult worldwide for other spas and massage houses. Also offer massage training classes
Prana Spa, Jl Kunti, ☎ +62 361 730 840. Attached to The Villas, this is one of Bali's very best spas. Themed on a Rajasthan Palace.
Spa Venus Bali, Jl Raya Seminyak, Gg Plawa No33F (10 minute walk from Bintang Supermarket), ☎ +62 361 731129. 10AM-10PM. On offer is a range of treatments from a simple Balinese traditional massage to a complete detox program including colonic cleansing and fasting, as well as far infra red sauna, deep healing treatments, allergy elimination, herbal medicine and more. From US$45.

What you can buy

Seminyak is the centre in Bali for hip and inventive fashion boutiques, other designer stores and art studios. A good starting point for any shopper would be the legion of small boutiques and designer stores on Jalan Laksmana.
Bintang Supermarket, Jl Raya Seminyak. This is the grand old aunt of supermarkets in all of Bali. It is a bit faded and old-fashioned looking these days but remains popular and is a very convenient one stop for those visitors looking for supermarket-type items that they would find at home. Also has a hardware section upstairs.
Body and Soul, Jl Raya Seminyak 11, Seminyak, Bali, ☎ +62 361 733564 (flagship@bodyandsoulclothing.com). This women's sportswear, beachwear and swimwear manufacturer has been a market leader in Bali for many years and is incredibly popular amongst the younger set visiting Bali. Their flagship store is on Jalan Raya Seminyak and they also have a outlet in Seminyak Square.
Kebbath Studio, Jl Laksmana 7, ☎ +62 361 736178. The studio of Made Bendesa, one of Bali's leading young abstract artists. Fabulous dramatic canvases that grace many of Bali's leading luxury properties as well as drawing the attention of overseas collectors.
Lukisan (traditional & modern paintings), Jl Kunti 3. 10AM-6.30PM. This is the place to get your paintings: traditional Balinese, Buddhist, abstract, modern, or pop art. They have it all, a beautiful gallery with very reasonable prices.
Mario Silver, Jl Raya Seminyak 19 (just south of Bintang Supermarket), ☎ +62 361 730977 (info@mariosilverbali.com). The retail outlet of one of Bali's leading silver jewellry designers and manufacturers. Wide range of high quality items which are frequently updated.
Oxyzen, Jl Kunti 1, ☎ +62 361 730540. 10AM-7PM. A so-called Zen gallery where you will find a host of Buddhist- themed statues and other decorative items at reasonable prices.
Seminyak Square, Jl Laksmana (on the corner of Jl Laksmana and Jl Kayu Jati). Chic and modern shopping complex housing designer stores, eateries and an excellent Periplus bookshop. Most unusually for Seminyak, there is a lot of public parking available here.
Shaman, Jl Raya Seminyak 127 (next to Cafe Seminyak). 9AM-10PM. A very funky store which is an outlet for the Shaman Electro brand. Young streetwear which is right out there.

Food

Over the past 10 years, Seminyak has developed a world class dining scene. If you want to splurge on one very special dinner while you are in Bali, look no further than the higher end options in Seminyak. Prices are high by Bali standards but on an international scale still very good value for the highest quality of food and eating environment. The clientele is demanding here and the turnover of restaurants quite high so those that make it and stick around are invariably very good.

Although they have become harder to find in recent years there are still excellent budget options avaiable in the area.

Budget
Baku Dapa, Jl Dhyana Pura, Seminyak. This great value warung is something of a legend in Seminyak. Located right on busy Jalan Dhyana Pura, it stays open very late and is popular with the partying crowd. Serves Manado style Indonesian food at very keen prices. Highly recommended to all visitors as a real taste of Indonesia
Café Tahu (Tofu Cafe), Jl Petitenget 20. Popular with locals, this restaurant has raised seating around a central courtyard and offers up a menu of tofu, tofu and more tofu, cooked Indonesian style for about Rp 6,000 per dish. The tofu is all made on premises and you can even buy a pack to take home. Concessions to meat-eaters include sate and grilled chicken.
Mano Beach Side Café, Seminyak Beach (opposite Pura Petitenget). True to the name, this is a simple but stylish blue building by the beach, offering all sorts of drinks for around Rp 10,000 as well as sandwiches and pasta for around Rp 30,000 — not to mention cool breezes and great sunsets.
Warung Batavia, Jl Kunti Utara (turn north off Jl Sunset at the Jl Kunti lights and it is on the first bend you reach), ☎ +62 361 7316411. After years on Jl Kerobokan this long-established warung which serves excellent Javanese food has moved to a location with better parking. Always busy, but lunchtimes especially. Choose your food at the counter and sit at the sociable, shared long wooden tables. Spend Rp 25,000 for a fantastic quality meal.
Warung Sobat, Jl Batu Belig (About half way down Batu Belig on the right hand side heading towards the beach). Great value and ever popular Indonesian restaurant. Main dishes about Rp 20,000 to 30,000 edit

Mid-range
Bebek Bali, Jl Petitenget 108, ☎ +62 361 7454640. The name means "Balinese duck", and in case that doesn't tip you off as to their specialty, everything from napkins to beer coasters inside the lush, ornamented restaurant is duck-shaped. Duck is served in seven ways, including the tasty Balinese bebek betutu flavored with herbal paste. Post-bird flu, however, they also have a (rather less successful) sideline in seafood. Set meals from Rp 55,000.
Cafe Seminyak, Jl Raya Seminyak 17 (right in front of Bintang supermarket), ☎ +62 361 736967. 7AM-11PM. Established in 2000, this is where the local community meets. All day long, this very busy cafe serves delicious breakfasts with French croissants, French baguettes and chocolatines. Or you can have a big English breakfast with beans and sausage. The only downside here is that it is an outdoor cafe right beside a very busy and noisy road.
Grocer and Grind, Jl Kayu Jati 3x, Seminyak, Bali, ☎ +62 361 737321. Very contemporary deli-style cafe serving superb sandwiches, salads and pastries and possibly the best coffee in Seminyak.
Junction Cafe, Jl Laksmana (on the corner of Jl Laksmana and Jl Kayu Jati). Excellent cafe serving the best baguettes imaginable and salads at lunchtime and specialising in pasta in the evening. Free WiFi internet for customers. Belgian owned and run.
Le Tebu, Jl Petitenget 40X, ☎ +62 361 739948. The French-owned Le Tebu offers diners salads, sandwiches and a few token Indonesian items. Dishes start from Rp 30,000.
Made's Warung, Jl Raya Seminyak, ☎ +62 361 753039. A Seminyak institution first established (in a different location) in 1969. Wonderful Indonesian food in a great location in a courtyard off of the main road in Seminyak. The western food is OK but nothing special; stay with the Indonesian dishes. Certainly not over-priced by Seminyak standards.
Queen's Tandoor, Jl Raya Seminyak 73, ☎ +62 361 732770 (bali@queenstandoor.com). The best Indian restaurant in Bali by a country mile. Consistently wins awards and it is easy to understand why. Most of the main dishes are around Rp 50,000. Superb tandoori chicken and fish, huge authentic biryanis and much, much more. Also have a delivery service which is very handy for those visitors staying in one of Seminyak's many private rental villas.
Rumours, Jl Laksmana, Seminyak. Incredibly popular restaurant serving great value western food. You cannot book here and there is often a long queue for tables.
Sate Bali, Jl Laskmana 22A (opposite Samaya resort), ☎ +62 361 736734. Low-key but tastefully done open-air eatery with well presented Balinese favorites like sate lilit (spiced meat on lemon grass sticks), plenty of pork dishes and fresh fish. Rp 50,000.
Waroeng Bonita, Jl Petitenget 100X. A vast selection of western and Indonesian dishes, served up in a garden courtyard. Prices start from Rp 50,000.

Splurge
'La Lucciola, (on the south side of the Petitenget temple car park). In a fabulous location right on Petitenget beach, La Lucciola serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. Home of the Frangipani Bar, a popular choice for watching the legendary sunset here.
Metis, Jl Petitenget No6, ☎ +62 361 737888 (info@metisbali.com). Opened in October 2009, this is Bali's most significant new restaurant for many years. After 10 years as Bali's top French restaurant, Warisan has closed and the management team from there have opened Metis which is intended to fill the same market niche. Only time will tell if they can create a formula which works as well as Warisan did, but the early omens are good. Located at the Kerobokan end of Jalan Petitenget with ample parking. About Rp 1,000,000 per head.
Sarong, Jl Petitenget No19x, ☎ +62 361 737809 (info@sarongbali.com). A hugely successful addition to Seminyak's hip restaurant and bar scene. Original takes on Asian street and country food in a very chic 5 star setting. If you want to be 'in with the Seminyak in-crowd', you have found the right place.

Find drink

Many of Bali's hippest nightspots are in Seminyak.
Double Six, Jalan Double Six (on the beach just north of Jalan Double Six). from 2AM until dawn. A Bali institution. Late-night dance club venue right on the beach. Regularly draws crowds numbered in the thousands and world name DJs. It also has a huge swimming-pool with a bungee jump. Rp 50,000 to 500,000 depending on the event.
Hu'u, ☎ +62 361 736443. The seminal Bali establishment of the funky Singaporean nightspot chain, the star attraction here is the lit-up central swimming pool where the bold and the beautiful can jump in. The rest of the complex is chilled-out drinking and dining in the garden and pavilion. Draft beer is tolerable at Rp 20,000 a mug, but cocktails will set you back Rp 60,000.
Ku dé Ta, Jl Oberoi (Laksmana) 9, ☎ +62 361 736969. Super-stylish bar-restaurant complex with two bars, restaurant seating indoors and beachside divans to laze on while the DJ spins an eclectic mix of music, new and old. Soft drinks from Rp 20,000, cocktails from Rp 70,000, including bizarre selections like the infamous black pepper and grilled pineapple martini (which, for the record, tastes like liquid pineapple candy with a sprinkle of grit). Gets packed on weekends.
Lita Gunardi & The Backyard Lounge, Kunti Arcade 2&3, Jl Kunti I, ☎ +62 361 738000. 11AM to 12PM. A lounge bar and restaurant attached to the Lita Gunardi boutique. A funky venue in a Jl Kunit location that is rapidly becoming vey fashionable indeed. The bar serves good cocktails and the restaurant specialises in Italian food.
The Living Room, Jl Petitenget 2000x, Seminyak, ☎ +62 361 735735 (info@thelivingroom-bali.com). Just across the road from Hu'u and a similar bar which attracts a similarly hip clientele. Good cocktails and excellent DJ music. Give the restaurant a miss though.
Syndicate Club Bali, Jl Blue Ocean (right on he beach, next door to 66), ☎ +62 361 756666. 10 PM to 4 AM. Late night dance bar and with great ocean and beach views. This is leg number 2 of the de ja vu - Syndicate - Double Six circuit..

There are numerous gay bars on Jalan Dhyana Pura including Q Bar, Mixwell and Kudos.

Find hotels

There is virtually no backpacker accommodation in Seminyak. Budget travellers will generally do better to stay in nearby Kuta or Legian. However, there are some (fairly uninspiring) losmen type places in Gang Bima which runs south off the northern end of Jalan Dhyana Pura right in the heart of Seminyak.

The main choices are villas and higher end hotels. There are some good bargains to be had in the mid-range though in low season - shop around.

Beware of false advertising! Only the most expensive "villas" are completely private and self-contained, while many share at least some facilities (eg. pool) and the cheaper ones are just clusters of bungalows.

Hotels

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under US$ 30
Mid-range US$ 30 to 130
Splurge Over US$ 130

Any villas listed in this section do not have private courtyards and share facilities like a swimming pool.

Budget
Galaxy Hotel & Bar (formerly Bali Globe Hotel), Jl Dhyana Pura 9A, ☎ +62 361 730328 (galaxy_bali@yahoo.com). One of the few places to stay in Seminyak with anything approaching a budget price tag. Good central location but be warned that it is right on the busiest stretch of Jalan Dhyana Pura and is noisy until 2AM every morning. Rp 135,000.

Mid-range
Ixora Resort and Villas, Jl Cendrawasih 99, ☎ +62 361 739390 (info@ixorabali.com). Small hotel in just about as a quiet setting as you will find anywhere in Seminyak. Breakfast and room service but no restaurant. Many of Bali's best eateries are easy walking distance from here though. A good value option in a nice spot. From US$ 70.
Kokonut Suites, Jl Petitenget 88 (next door to Metis), ☎ +62 361 735933 (info@kokonutsuites.com). This well presented, modern all suite hotel is extremely good value by Seminyak standards. One and two bedroom suites offered. In-house spa, gym and business centre. Moderately priced restaurant. From US$ 90.
Puri Cendana, Jl Dhyana Pura (at the beach end of Dhyana Pura, close to The Sofitel), ☎ +62 361 734890 (info@puricendana.com). A simple, old-style Bali hotel that almost seems a little out of place in Seminyak these days. Great value though for his area and it is only 50 metres from the beach. Has a lot of very loyal repeat custom. The restaurant is ordinary (but lots of good options within easy walking distance). From US$ 50.
The Seri Suites, Jalan Umalas I No 42 (off Jl Kerobokan), ☎ +62 361 730262 (info@theserisuitesbali.com, fax: +62 361 730784). checkin: 2PM; checkout: 12PM. Surrounded by rice paddies and a charming Balinese Village, the Seri Suites in Umalas offer a genuine Bali experience in a relaxing, quiet environment. Less than 10 minutes by free shuttle bus from the main shopping, eating and beach area s of Seminyak. One, two and three bedroom suites available. Rp 1,000,000 to 3,400,000.

Splurge
Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa, Bali, Jl Dhyana Pura (right on the beach at the end of Jl Dhyana Pura), ☎ +62 361 737773. Situated on 3,500 square metres of prime beachfront, this resort features 59 suites of approximately 80 square metres each. Beautifully furnished and decorated as you would expect from this five star boutique resort opetator.
Breezes Seminyak Resort and Spa (Contiki Resort Bali), Jl Dhyana Pura, ☎ +62 361 730573. Previously a Contiki Resort designed exclusively for the 18-35 age range. This resort consists of a multi-level pool with bar, lounge bar & nightclub, modern architecture, day spa, tennis court. There are also free shuttles to Kuta.
Chez Bali Villa and Spa, Jl Beraban, ☎ +62 361 736304/5,. Chez Bali consists of 17 private villas with a large shared pool. Prices range from Rp 1,700,000-4,600,000 per villa in the high/low season, including breakfast. Complimentary airport pick-up.
Cicada, Jl Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget (on the entrance road to Sentosa), ☎ +62 361 8620805. This is an intimate complex consisting of 6 contemporary single and double storey townhouses, set amongst beautiful tropical grounds amd all opening out to the shared 25 metre lap pool and jacuzzi.
The Haven, Jl Raya Seminyak 500, ☎ +62 361 738 001 (sales@thehavenbali.com). This massive 160 room contemporary-styled hotel opened in mid 2009. Offers regular hotel rooms, suites and a few private villas. Big downside is the noisy location right on the busiest part of Jalan Raya Seminyak.
The Legian, Jl Laksmana, ☎ +62 361 730622 (thelegian@ghmhotels.com). Despite its name, this very famous hotel in right on the beach in Petitenget. An extremely impressive five star property and the prices are amongst the highest in Bali. First class restaurant, spa and gym facilities.
The Samaya, Jl Laksmana. The Samaya is a stylish luxury villa resort with forty-six villas, twenty four of which command a premier location along the fashionable Seminyak beachfront. It has its own wonderful restaurant called The Breeze, and you can see 180 degree views from its Olympic-sized swimming pool.
Villa Kubu, Jalan Seminyak, Gg Plawa No 33F (1 km from beach), ☎ +62 361 731129 (info@villakubu.com, fax: +62 361 735500). checkin: 2PM; checkout: 12PM. Villa Kubu has 14 villas. It is located 5-10 minutes away from downtown Seminyak and the beach. Room rates include nightly turndown service, daily housekeeping, and breakfast. Complimentary airport transfers are also available. Rp 2,900,000 to 5,700,000.

Private villas

Villas listed here are private individual properties with their own pool or are within a all-villa hotel which offers only completely private units.
Aqua Villa. Located in the heart of Seminyak, walking distance to Petitenget beach, this tropical villa has modern architecture that features four master bedrooms all with ensuite, 20 metre private pool, an entertainment room with flat screen TV and pool table. Fully staffed, including a private chef. Built in 2007, this villa was voted Best Villa of the Year 2008 in The Yak Magazine. US$ 775 to 1,250 per night.
Atas Ombak. This expansive 5-bedroom beachfront luxury property sleeps up to 10 people. It has a private pool and extensive gardens over the one acre property. Fully staffed with 20-person team, including private cook, maids and security. From US$ 1,500 per night.
b villa (sales@bvilla.com), ☎ +62 361 736 826. A collection of contemporary, minimalist 1, 2 and 3 bedroom private villas within a managed complex. In a quiet spot and quite good value by Seminyak standards. from US$ 235.
Laksamana Villas, Jalan Laksmana. Right opposite the Samaya Resort, close to Ku De Ta, La Luciola and Seminyak beach. Three to five bedroom villas in a very discrete, super-luxury managed estate. edit
Maya Sayang, Jl Mertasari No1, ☎ +62 361 732230. Boutique villa resort offering all the usual sevices. One, two and three bedroom villas available, all with their own private pool. Japanese-owned. From US$ 350.
Villa Azaya. Contemporary-styled, five-bedroom villa just 50 metres from Petitenget Beach. 20 metre pool and high-end sound system. Fully staffed with chef, maids, gardener, security etc. US$ 800 to 1,350 per night.
The Kozy Villas, Jalan Dewi Saraswati III, No9RK, ☎ +62 361 736255 (info@thekozyvillas.com, fax: +62 361 736256). The Kozy Villas are comprised of 7 private villas each with a private pool. 24-hour security, concierge, and room service. In a bit of a backwater about 10 minutes drive from Seminyak proper but it is priced accordingly.
Sentosa Villas and Resort, Jl Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget, (info@balisentosa.com). Since opening in 2007, Sentosa has claimed its place in the very highest echelon of chic Seminyak hotels. There are no hotel rooms as such, rather this is a villa resort and each villa has its own pool. Common areas are spectacular here and include a top class gym and spa. The only downside is the food - dreadful for such a top quality property. Eat elsewhere. Ten minute walk to Petitenget beach. From US$ 550.

Stay safe

Seminyak is the centre of Bali's party drug scene with offers of ecstasy and cocaine especially common. Pay heed to the advice here and avoid at all costs.

Get out

The bright lights, shopping centers and traffic jams of Kuta are just 15 minutes away to the south.
The rural tranquility of Canggu is 25 minutes drive to the north.
Umalas and Kerobokan villages lie just to the north.
The temple of Tanah Lot, famed for its sunsets, is 40 minutes away by car.
Further to the south lie Jimbaran, famous for its luxury hotels and beach front dinners, and the Uluwatu area, which boasts top beaches and cultural destinations, such as the Uluwatu temple.
To the east and the other side of the island, one will find sedate Sanur - one of Bali's oldest tourist destinations featuring a mix of tourist attractions.

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