LOVINA : play with dolphins

Lovina is a quiet coastal town on the North Bali coastline west of the city of Singaraja.
Lovina Tourism Region is a tourist area with the region center is located in the Village Kalibukbuk 10 km west of Singaraja City. Its main attraction is the beach with calm sea water, sand blackish color, coral reefs with tropical fish. Because of the nature of the calm sea, lovina is very suitable for water recreation such as diving, snorkeling, swimming, fishing, sailing, rowing or just soak in sea water. In addition to these attractions, can be noted here, is the existence of dolphins in their natural habitat. By traditional fishermen boat numbering hundreds / can be seen in the morning, approximately 1 km off the coast.

Lovina is a relatively new name coined in the 1950s by a local Buleleng Regency official with a good eye for future tourism-based development. It essentially consists of seven traditional villages which all merge into one on a ten kilometre stretch of the main road which hugs the north coast west of Singaraja: Temukus, Kalibukbuk, Anturan, Pemaron, Tukad Mungga, Banyualit and Kaliasem. Kalibukuk is the main hub of this area and is often thought of "Lovina town centre".

The whole stetch of coast here is fringed by quite narrow black sand beaches which are accessed by a multitude of small lanes which run perpendicular to the east-west coast road. The beaches are generally safe for swimming and the waters of Bali's north coast, in direct contrast to the crashing surf of the south, are relatively calm.

Diving, snorkelling and dolphin watching are the main activities, but perhaps above all else, this is an area in which to relax and take in a very slow, traditional pace of life. It can get a little crowded in July and August but outside that peak season, this is a quiet part of the island.
Located in the Village Banjar, Banjar District ± 5 km west of Lovina and ± 1 km west of the Buddhist temple. Banjar Hot Water is known as Hot Spring term familiar to practitioners of tourism. Various guests from abroad have visited this nature tourism. Hot water that comes from the story made the local hills, the first level consists of several part (named pancoran) where a hot water flow. Small pool is also available at this level. At the second level of the pond is made larger.

At Holiday season, this place is often visited by foreign tourists and the local and surrounding communities.

Seeing dolphins in Lovina must be done in begining of the morning. Exactly around 5.30-6.00 am.

You have to stay in hotels at Lovina. This is much more effective than to stay in Kuta or Denpasar area that takes about 3 hours to reach Lovina. Of course we have to get up early to go and arrived at 5 am.

By renting a boat (boat) (price per person is still below Rp100.000), we will be invited into the sea to see dolphins in action. Attractions is very good and can satisfy the tourists who visit Lovina.

Lovina area facilities complete enough. Starting from a star hotel, inn or homestay available here. So no worries matter where you stay.

How to Get in

By bus
Perama offers transportation from major tourist destinations in Bali and has a local Lovina office in Anturan. They use mini buses without air-conditioning and the prices are more than reasonable.
Long distance bemos are a bit of challenge for all but the most experienced of budget traveler, but you can get to Lovina from most major towns in Bali, almost always via Singaraja.
By car
Most visitors arrive in Lovina from the south in a self-drive hire car or with a car and driver. A journey from Kuta takes about 3 hrs and from Sanur slightly lesss. Ubud is a 2 hour car journey over the central highland range. Many visitors from the south choose though to break their journey at Bedugul or Kintamani.

A pre-paid coupon taxi direct from the airport will cost you Rp 450,000 and take about 3 hours.

How to go around

The easiest way to visit the surroundings of Lovina is by renting a motorbike. There are many roadside outlets and expect to pay between Rp 50,000 and 90,000 per day. The roads are quite good here and nothing like as crowded as in south Bali.

Renting a bicycle is popular and again, easy to find. Many hotels have their own. You should be aware though that away from the coast road, there are a lot of steep hills.

Local bemos ply the north coast road between Singaraja and west Bali stopping at all points on the Lovina stretch. You will need some patience and they can very crowded indeed. As there is only one main road though it is hard to get lost.

This is a good area for walking as the roads are relatively quiet and the beaches long and easily passable.

What you can see

Lovina’s black sand beaches are quite lovely and lend themselves well to exploration on foot at a leisurely pace. The sea is very calm here and is safe for swimming. The feeling on the beaches is one of laid-back tranquility with small, colourfully decorated traditional outriggers called perahu dotted along the shoreline. These are a reminder that you are in a traditional fishing community. There are a few hawkers but nothing like as many as on the southern beaches and this is as good a place as any in Bali to explore quiet beaches at your own pace. At the highest of tides the beaches can get a little difficult to traverse in places, so it is best to time your walks for a falling tide.

The small road that runs down to the beach-front from the main east-west coast route at Kalibukuk is called Jalan Bina Ria. At the beach end of this road is a rather wonderful dolphin statue. Apart from being a notable piece of kitsch, this is a reminder of the reason for the initial drive beind tourist development at Lovina (dolhpins, obviously). Mini wooden and stone replicas of this statue are for sale widely in the area.

Brahma Vihara Arama, Dencarik. Bali's largest Buddhist monastery located near the village of Dencarik. The monastery is absolutely charming and commands lovely views. Whilst obviously Buddhist with its orange roof, numerous gold Buddhas and stupas recalling those at Borobudur, the carvings and ornamentation are very Balinese. The combination works well and if it were in a location easier to reach, this attraction would recieve far more visitors than it does. A visit here combines well with Banjar Hot Springs.

Your hotel can (and will offer repeatedly to) arrange day tours to the nearby sights outside of the scope of this article including the beautiful highland scenery of Munduk, the beaches of Pemuteran to the west and the city of Singaraja to the east. All are within easy reach.

What you can do

You will be offered dolphin sighting trips every other minute. These leave the main beaches each morning at dawn and have mixed reviews as the boats tend to outnumber the dolphins. It can though still be an enjoyable ride and if you find a pod of dolphins it is of course very worthwhile. The price is fixed by the local boatmen's association and is currently Rp 75,000 per person. If you are in a group, ask about chartering your own private boat.

Cockfights are popular around around Lovina, perhaps more so than anywhere else in Bali. This is taken very seriously and you will see many older men training the cocks. At the fights, huge sums of money change hands as illegal gambling on the outcome is rife. If you are interested, ask at your hotel or approach one of the local men and ask to tag along to the next fight.

Banjar Hot Springs (Air Panas), Dencarik (about 10 km west by road to Dencarik, then an ojek ride on rough paths). Located west of Lovina, this is an enchanting hot springs with stone carved mouths gushing water in a lush garden setting. The waters are naturally a very pleasing temperature and have a high sulphur content. Extremely therapeutic and cleansing. Changing rooms and lockers provided on site. This is not a straightforward place to get to and for that reason it is often way less crowded than you would expect for such a lovely spot. Rp 3,000.
Diving
There are several dive operators based out of Lovina that operate daily dive and snorkeling trips to Menjangan Island, Tulamben and Amed, as well as dives from the local beaches. Be sensible and careful as some hotels and counters try to sell unlicensed diving trips that may look official on paper. Do not pay before you have seen the dive centre and check that you will dive with certified divemasters/instructors.
Bali Spice Dive, (on the beach at Kaliasem next to the Aditya Beach Resort), ☎ +62 362 41305 (spicedive@balispicedive.com). PADI centre based in Lovina offering day trips to all of the dive spots on the northern coast of Bali. Guides are available in a variety of languages and multi-day discounts are available. Long-established and the largest dive operator in the area. US$ 55 to 75 per day.
Lovina Dive, Jalan Banyualit, Kalibukuk (just east of Kalibukuk), ☎ +62 812 3842415 (info@lovinadive.com). PADI dive centre offering a full range of courses and fun dives to the major dive sites in north Bali. US$ 55 to 75 per day.
Spas

Lovina has several spa facilities. Whilst more low key than the spas in south Bali, the service is excellent and the prices are much lower than at the opulent spas in the south.

Also, do not under-rate or overlook the traditional massage women who work on the beaches at Lovina. Most of these women come from families where massage skills have been passed down thorugh many generations and they really know what they are doing. A beach massage will also cost you lesss.
Agung's Spa, (close to Damai Lovina Villas, in the hills 4 km inland from Kalibukuk), ☎ +62 362 42018. Offers body scrubs, facials, massage, etc. The nicest spa facility in Lovina, though it is much smaller and basic than what you would find elsewhere on the island.
Aruna Spa, Jalan Damai, Anturan (at Bali Taman Village Resort), ☎ +62 812 3812504. Large range of beauty treaments as well as various tradtional massages.
Bali Samdahi Spa, Jl Mawar, Kalibukuk, ☎ +62 813 38558260. Offers a variety of massages. The rebalancing massage and is a very nice mixture between therapeutic and well-being massage. Mandi Lulur scrubs are available including a yogurt mask.
Cooking schools
Adjani, ☎ +62 812 36232019 (adjani_bali@yahoo.co.id). Small family-run cooking school near the post office on the main road at Kalibukuk. Classes include a trip to the local market to buy produce. edit
Warung Bambu, Pemaron, ☎ +62 362 27080 (warungbambu@gmx.net). This small restaurant offers cooking classes for individuals and groups.

Souvenir

Kalibukuk has a number of shops both on the main coast road and on Jalan Bina Ria selling the usual selection of Bali goods. You will find everything from arts and crafts to T-shirts at prices very marginally higher than you would pay in south Bali.

A Lovina speciality though are dolphin statues, usually carved from wood (don't believe those trying to convince they are from ebony!). This is due to the strong association of Lovina with dolphins and if you want to take home just one souvenir from Lovina, then this is the most appropriate.

Find food

Barakuda, Jl Mawar, Kalibukuk, ☎ +62 362 41405 (restaurant_barakuda@hotmail.com). Popular restaurant specialising in Indonesian style seafood. Have a good value set menu options.
Kakatua, Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukuk, ☎ +62 362 41344. Popular with tourists and not without reason. The menu is varied, the staff friendly and you can see the food being prepared and cooked from fresh ingredients.
Kopi Bali, Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukuk (near the dolphin statue). . Cheap and cheerful Indonesian food. Extremely popular with budget travellers and a good place to hang out to talk travel.
Kubu Lalang, Tukad Mungga. A quality restaurant owned and run by an Austrian food enthusiast. Some excellent takes on local food here and a good value set menu. Located at the bungalows of the same name at the beach end of a quiet lane in Tukad Mungga.
Sea Breeze, Kalibukuk (on the beach just west of the dolphin statue). Very well known eatery on the beach in Kalibukuk. Been around for many years serving good value meals. Fish is especially recommended here.
Warung Bambu Pemoran, on the entrance road to the Puri Bagus resort, ☎ +62 362 27080. Balinese and other Indonesian food at excellent value prices. Often has live dance performances and also offer cookery courses.

Looking for Drink

Jax Bar, Kalibukuk, (jax-bar@hotmail.com)
. Live band every night, karaoke, pool room, dartboard, live sports including football on the biggest screen in Lovina, dance floor, Chinese food and probably the most extensive cocktail list in town. Watch the big game, sing karaoke, enjoy the band or just simply relax. There is even a bouncy castle to keep the kids amused!
Volcano Club, Banyualit (on the main road, can't miss it), ☎ +62 362 412222. The only disco in town. If you are around on Saturday and want to make some moves with locals, you should go here. A rather bizarre rustic building which resembles a concrete cave. Rp 25,000.
Waru Bali, Jl Mawar, Kalibukuk. Cool place to get get a beer and watch the sun go down. One of the oldest warungs in Kalibukbuk and still very popular. Stay late and you might enjoy a singalong with some of the locals.
Zigiz, Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukuk. From 4PM daily. Live acoustic guitar nightly. Large cocktail selection. edit

Check in

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under Rp 200,000
Mid-range Rp 200,000-1,000,000
Splurge Over Rp 1,000,000

There is a huge amount of budget and mid-range accommodation in Lovina and many visitors turn up without reservations. Options at the higher end are more limited but this is changing.

Budget
Angsoka Hotel, Jl Bina Ria, Kalibukuk, ☎ +62 362 41841 (hotel@angsoka.com). This 44 room hotel has been around a long time and it will win no design awards. The cheapest rooms are very cheap indeed though and it is a popular choice with backpackers for that reason. Also have more expensive and grander accommodation options. From Rp 100,000.
Elsa II, Kalibukuk (near The Angsoka off Jl Bina Ria). A small but excellent new budget option in Kalibukbuk. Opened in June 2008. Offers nice rooms, hot water, with fan or aircon and breakfast is included. from Rp 100,000.
Gede Homestay Bungalow, Anturan, ☎ +62 362 41526 (gedehomestay@yahoo.com). The rooms are clean with aircon and hot water. A small family run homestay with a good restaurant and nice seats in front of the bungalows.
Mas Bungalows, Jl Laviana, Banyualit, ☎ +62 362 41773 (mas_bali@hotmail.com). Small, quiet bungalow complex offering a range of accommodation options. The cheaper rooms have no aircon but all have hot water. Large pool and simple cafe. Surprisingly for budget hotel, they price in euros. From € 7.50.
Rini Hotel, Jl Ketapang, Kalibukuk, ☎ +62 362 41386 (rini_hotel@telkom.net). A good budget option and they actually take credit cards. The cheaper rooms do not have air-con. Good sized salt-water swimming pool. from Rp 150,000.
Sanders, Kalibukuk. Situated beach-side. Rooms are clean with no hot water. One of the better backpacker places in town. Rp 100,000.
Happy Beach Inn, Happy Beach, Tukad Mungga, ☎ +62 362 41017. Just four basic rooms with no hot water arranged in a nice little garden. Two minute walk to Happy Beach. Rp 100,000.
Puri Bali Lovina, Jl Mawar, Kalibukuk, ☎ +62 362 41485 (puribali@puribalilovina.com). This thirty room hotel offers traditional style rooms set around a large pool. Standard restaurant, a useful secondhand book store/exchange, an internet cafe and a five minute walk to the beach complete the picture and make this a popular choice with budget travellers. The cheaper rooms have no aircon. Also has a nice two bedromm family unit for those travelling in a group or with children. From Rp 130,000.
Villa Agung Beach Inn, Anturan, close to the petrol station, ☎ +62 362 41527 (villaagung@hotmail.com). A splendid family run hotel right by the beach. Very quiet location. Offers a range of accommodation, some air-conditioned.

Mid-range
Aditya Beach Resort, Kaliasem/Temukus, ☎ +62 361 8528521 (reservation@adityalovinabeach.com). Variety of accommodation available in this large beach front resort. Cafe, bar, in house massage treatment and large swimming pool. From US$ 35.
Bali Paradise Hotel, Anturan (set back about 1 km from the beach), ☎ +62 362 41432 (info@baliparadisehotel.com). Ocean and mountain views, huge swimming pool and large rooms. This is a good option for any visitor who wants to stay away from the from the beach but still close to all the facilties, From US$ 50.
Bali Taman Lovina Resort and Spa, Anturan, ☎ +62 362 41126 (balitamanlovina@telkom.net). Good value beachfront resort with large pool, restaurant and in-house spa.
Banjar Hills Retreat, Tegehe, ☎ +62 815 58083880 (info@balibanjarhills.com). Beautiful laid back hill resort close to the Banjar Hot Springs, about 10 km west of Lovina proper Rp 250,000.
Puri Saron (formerly Baruna Beach Cottages), Tukad Mungga, ☎ +62 362 41252 (sales@barunabeach.com). The 35 rooms here are set in large pleasant gardens close to the beach. The cheaper rooms are inward looking while the more expensive options have great ocean views. Large swimming pool located right on the water-front. From U$ 65.
Rambutan Beach Cottages, Jl Mawar, Kalibukuk, ☎ +62 362 41388 (booking@rambutan.org). A lovely little family hotel near the beach. It has two pools and a pleasant restaurant with a mix of excellent local and western food. This hotel has good rooms and gardens and many amenities for children. The owners and staff are extremely helpful and friendly. from US$ 15 to 155.

Splurge
Damai Lovina Villas, Jl Damai, Kayuputih, ☎ +62 362 41008 (info@damai.com). Fourteen very charming villas in the hills 4 km inland from Lovina. US$ 160 to 699.
Puri Bagus Lovina, Tukad Mungga, (info@puribagus.net). Pleasant beach front setting in a very quiet part of Lovina. Mature gardens and a decent restaurant. Some of the individual cottages are much nicer than others. from US$ 100 to 280.
Zen Resort Bali, Seririt, ☎ +62 365 93578 (contact@zenresortbali.com). A small boutique wellness resort offering integrated ayurveda, yoga, pranayama & meditation. Very quiet and beautiful location close to Seririt on the coast road between Lovina and Pemuteran. From € 75.

Stay safe

Visitors to Lovina are often offered magic mushrooms. Although the Indonesian legal position on mushrooms is unclear, this is very much at your own risk and frankly, best avoided.

Get out

- From Lovina you can continue your Bali trip westwards to Pemuteran and West Bali National Park for more diving, trekking and birdwatching
- The old administrative capital of Bali at Singaraja is just 20 minutes to the east.
- Bedugul for lakes, mountains and the botanical gardens.