Wednesday, November 25, 2009

NUSA LEMBONGAN

Nusa Lembongan is a small island off the southeast coast of the main island of Bali.
Nusa Lembongan is approximately 8 square kilometres in size and is one of three neighbouring islands, the others being much larger Nusa Penida and tiny Nusa Ceningan (also covered by this article). The three islands are separated from Bali by the Badung Strait.

Fast becoming one of Bali's most popular attractions, this island paradise is a world away from the hassle and hectic pace of South Bali. There are no hawkers, no traffic, magnificent scenery and this is the perfect place to put your feet up and relax. Main activities include surfing, diving and snorkeling. Some tourists may find the island a little slow after the pace of southern Bali.

The water is some of the clearest you can find and vivid aqua blue in color. Most areas aroudn the island are good for diving and snorkeling with abundant marine life and live coral. Surfing can get a bit crowded but the waves are good. There are several white sand beaches away from the main centres which are virtually never rarely crowded. There is a flourishing and well established seaweed farming industry here and many visitors find it interesting to learn about this.

There are two main beach areas which have traditionally attracted visitors. Jungut Batu in the north is the bigger of the two with a myriad of hotels, restaurants and cheap eateries and has traditionally attracted backpackers, families and surfers. In more recent times, the hillside to the south of Jungut Batu (the Bukit) has been developed and attracted higher level hotels. The views from the Bukit are second to none on Nusa Lembongan. Sunsets are best viewed along the main Jungut Batu beachfront.

Mushroom Bay to the south-west of Jungut Batu is a quaint, attractive and sheltered bay. It is a nice spot after 3PM when the day trippers have gone home and it has a great white sandy beach along with some cozy little restaurants that line the beach. Further south the lesser known beaches either side of the Devil's Tear outcrop are increasingly drawing more visitors.

How to get in

The only realistic way (although you can charter a helicopter) to reach Nusa Lembongan from Bali is by boat. There are several options according to budget and speed. Most of the scheduled services leave from Sanur Beach at the end of Jalan Hangtuah and involve getting your feet wet. The exact departure and arrival point on this beach depends on the tide. Other services run from Benoa Harbour and there are local public boat services to and from Padang Bai and Kusamba in East Bali but these are not recommended.

From Sanur Beach:
Scoot Fast Boat, Tel: +61 361 285522. Leaves from Sanur beach. Scoot operates fast boats which take you to Jungut Batu for US$45 return (Adults). Hotel vehicle transfers are included. The tickets can be bought from the Scoot office next to Dunkin' Donuts in Jalan Hangtuah, Sanur opposite the Sanur Paradise Plaza Beach Hotel, or on the beach near the departure point. It takes 30-40 minutes from Sanur. Leaving Sanur 9.30AM, 1.30PM & 4PM. Leaving Nusa Lembongan 8.30AM, 11.30AM & 3PM.
The Tanis Lembongan Express Tel: +61 361 7432344. Speed boat service to and from Mushroom Bay taking 25-35 minutes from Sanur Beach near Grand Bali Beach Hotel. Return fare US$ 45.00 per person and one way US$ 27.00 per person including hotel pick up. Scheduled departure from Sanur beach at 12.00 noon and 4PM and departure back to Sanur from from Mushroom Bay on Lembongan at 10.30AM and 3PM. Also offers surf safaris and day cruises. Special charters from Padang Bay US$ 90.00 one way.
Perama, a local transfers-only operator for the budget traveler, without same day return, Rp 100,000 one way, and has a network of connecting bus-links from around Bali. Boat departures daily at 10.30AM. The ride across is approximately 90 minutes. The office of Perama Sanur can be found at friendly Warung Pojok in Jalan Hangtuah. Daily Perama buses depart from here to Ubud, Kuta, the airport, Padang Bai (for Lombok) and now also Amed.
Public slow boat, depart daily from Sanur beach at 8AM in front of the Ananda Hotel or near the Grand Inna Bali Beach Hotel (depending on tide). They can be a bit sketchy at times and are usually very crowded. No same day return facility. The ride across is approximately 90 minutes. Price including transfers is Rp 100,000 per person one way. Pick up from hotels in Kuta, Seminyak, and Sanur. Other areas with extra charge.
Public fast boat, tel: +62 361 7432344 Thirty minutes by speed boat from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan. Departs Sanur daily at 12.30, 2.30PM, 4.00PM and departs Nusa Lembongan at 10.30AM, 1PM and 3PM. Price including hotel transfers Rp 240,000 per person each way and excluding transfers Rp 200,000 per person each way. Pick-up from hotels in Kuta, Seminyak and Sanur. Other areas with an extra charge.
Tamarind Jaya Express Tel: +62 361 8572572. Speed boat service to and from Mushroom Bay taking 30-45 minutes from Sanur Beach near Grand Bali Beach Hotel. Return fare US$ 45.00 per person and one way US$ 27.00 per person including hotel pick up. Scheduled departure from Sanur beach at 11.30 AM and 3.30PM and departure back to Sanur from from Mushroom Bay on Lembongan at 10.00AM and 2.00PM. Also offers day cruises. Special charters from Padang Bay US$ 90.00 one way.

From Benoa Harbour:
BlueWater Express, tel: +62 813 38419911. BlueWater Express has a high speed boat service from Bali International Marina at Benoa Harbour direct to Nusa Lembongan. This service continues on to the Gili islands in Lombok, allowing visitors to island hop all the way from Bali to Lombok. Hotel transfers in Bali are included in the fare. The boats are high-powered, large capacity speed boats which cover the distance in less than 30 minutes in normal sea conditions. Departure time is 10AM from Bali to Lembongan, 11AM from Lembongan to Gili, 1.30PM from Gili to Lembongan, then 3.30PM from Lembongan to Bali. More services may be added.
Island Explorer Cruises, Tel: +62 361 728088. Transfer only or day cruise include lunch & activities, super fast boats or leisurely sailing yacht to island. Departs Benoa at 9AM yacht or 10.30AM fast boat. Does pick up from hotels.
Bounty Cruises has a high speed catamaran service for US$ 35 one-way. If you have limited time, an option is to take a one day cruise. On a twin-hull boat under sail you will reach the island within 90 minutes (drinks and snacks are available on board). On the island you can take part in a mangrove forest trip, snorkeling, banana boat ride, glass bottom boat ride and sea-kayaking. A lunch and swimming-pool are also available. The approximate price is US$ 60.

How to go around

This is a nice place to walk with coastal paths linking nearly all the guest houses, hotels and restaurants. Most trips will take you less than two hours. The less developed south-western area of the island has some spectacular coast paths which provide easy walking, great views back to Bali and spectacular sunsets.

Bicycles can be rented at many places and the mainly flat roads are quite well surfaced. Motorbikes are also widely available for rent but may be unnecessary given the short distances involved - the island is only 4 km end to end. You can cross on foot or by bike to the small neighbouring island of Nusa Ceningan via a scenic suspension bridge.

What you can see

Devil's Tear, (follow signs for Sunset Beach from Mushroom Bay). A rocky outcrop between Dream Beach and Sunset Beach on the south western coast. Spectacular crashing waves and water plumes.
Dream Beach. A wonderful hidden white sand beach on the south coast.
Mangrove Forest, (continue north on the only coast road from Jungut Batu until you reach the mangroves). Northern Nusa Lembongan has an extensive forest of mature mangroves which can be explored in a jukung outrigger boat.
Puncak Sari Temple, Lembongan Village. The largest temple on the island. Good views over the straits to Bali. edit
Seaweed Farms. Visit the seaweed farms on the southern side of Lembongan Village. Good views across the estuary to Nusa Ceningan.
Sunset Beach, (adjacent to Devil's Tear). A beautiful beach with white sand and crashing waves.
Sunsets. One thing not to miss on Nusa Lembongan. The Sunset over Bali is quite extraordinary. Can be viewed from any west facing part of the island but Jungut Batu beach is especially popular. A more rural alternative is to go over the bridge to Nusa Ceningan and view the sunset from one of the west-facing high ridges - breathtaking.
Suspension Bridge, (go through Lembongan Village heaidng west sticking on the main road until you hit the estuarine channel. Can't miss the bridge.). Walk or bike the suspension bridge between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan.
Tamarind Beach, (between Playgrounds surf break and Mushroom Bay). Good views back to Bali and of Mount Agung especially.
The Underground House. Visit the Underground House in Lembongan Village
Nusa Ceningan
Nusa Ceningan is the tiny island between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida.
Easily reached via the suspension bridge on foot or by bicycle/motorbike. There is a notable surf break off Nusa Ceningan which attracts some surfers away from the more crowded breaks on Nusa Lembongan. Otherwise the island offers some scenic roads and paths and the westwards views back over Nusa Lembongan to Bali are impressive. Viewing the sunset over Bali from the central Ceningan ridge is very much worth the effort. The estuarine channel between Lembongan and Ceningan is home to many seaweed farms.

Very few visitors choose to stay on Nusa Ceningan but a new bungalow complex opened in 2009 and more accommodation options are in the pipeline.

What you can do

Nusa Lembongan is a well known surf destination with three popular breaks. There is a thriving surf scene in Jungut Batu.

Diving and snorkelling is excellent in the crystal clear waters. A number of reputable dive shops are present on the island and snorkellers can hire gear from their hotel or on the beach.
This is an excellent island for walking and cycling. Scooters can be hired easily but lots of people find they do not need one.
Dive shops
Bali Diving Academy Lembongan, Bungalo No7, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 361 270252. . A PADI 5 Star Dive Resort
Bali Lembongan Scuba, Jungut Batu. A PADI Dive Centre located in Jungut Batu.
Big Fish Diving, Jungut Batu. . Offers daily diving, PADI courses and Manta/Mola specials.
World Diving, Pondok Baruna, Jungut Batu, (info@worlddiving.com). The island's full PADI 5 Star Dive Centre. All courses are offered from Discover Scuba Diver through to Assistant Instructor. This is the only dive school in Lembongan with a purpose built training pool.

Spa facilities
Alam Nusa Spa, Mushroom Bay, ☎ +62 813 38377482 or +62 813 37912008. . Offers Balinese Massage and many kinds of treatments.
Lulur Spa, Batu Karang Resort, ☎ +62 366 24880. . Nusa Lembongan's first complete spa with rooms for facials, massages, pedicure, manicure and hair treatments. Local products are used as well as some imported from Australia. Each room is set with ambient music and air-conditioned. Changing rooms with clean treated hot water and a relaxation room are provided.

Find food

Virtually any place you stay on Nusa Lembongan will have a cafe/restaurant attached to it. These can be of hugely variable quality. There are a few good local warungs to choose from but by-and-large there are just not many independent restaurants on Nusa Lembongan and many visitors just stick to their hotel. Fish is a great option as it is all caught locally.
Ketut Warung. One of the best local warungs on the island, great atmosphere, huge plates, really good Indonesian and Thai food at really cheap prices. The owners, the Ketut Malom family, are really friendly and fantastic hosts so it's also a good way to discover the real Nusa Lembongan! Highly recommended.
Mangrove Restaurant. A splendid restaurant designed with a real Robinson Crusoe ethic located at the eastern end of the only spit of land that runs through the northern mangrove forest. From Jungut Batu, take the beach road north and turn into the mangroves (possible by motorcycle or of course on foot). Just keep going for about 1.5 km and you will find the restaurant. Alternatively, arrive by boat - any boat captain will know the way. Good quality food with local Indonesian and some well-prepared French options. Mid-range prices.
Warung Sunset, Sunset Beach, ☎ +62 812 3621633 (sunsetwarung@yahoo.com). A local beach side restaurant with very nice views. Serving beers, cocktails, mocktails and local foods including grilled jacket fish. Warung Sunset is open for breakfast, lunch and special BBQ on the beach and can also help with free transport (motor bike/pick up and drop, car for more than 5 persons).

Find Drink

Cafe Bali, Mushroom Bay. A great place to have a beer and watch the clear sea and stunning view back to Bali. This is also one of the better restaurants on the island.
Scooby Doo Bar & Restaurant, Jungut Batu. Sports bar and restaurant overlooking the bay. Enjoy a cool beer while watching the sun go down over Bali.

Check in

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under Rp 250,000
Mid-range Rp 250,000-1,000,000
Splurge Over Rp 1,000,000



Budget
Bungalo No7, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 813 37050030 (putuyasa7@hotmail.com). Clean fan-cooled rooms around a lovely garden right on the beach. Rp 70,000 to 150,000.
Jennys Bed & Breakfast, Nusa Ceningan, ☎ +62 812 36277650 (Jenny) (bsr_nuslem@yahoo.com). Newly opened bungalows at the remote south-western tip of Nusa Ceningan. Clean bungalows and a superb breakfast right at the beach. Motorbike rental is available. Friendly US manager and local guidance. Can arrange pick up in Jungut Batu on Nusa Lembongan. Rp 200,000.
Linda's Bungalows, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 812 3600867 (bcwcchoppers@yahoo.com). Rooms are clean with nice views of Shipwrecks surfing break. Cold saltwater showers, deck chairs and seating, fresh linen and towels. Their restaurant is recommended; good burgers, daily specials, big cheap pancakes, American breakfast, etc. The most expensive item on the menu is Rp 25,000. Rp 85,000.
Lembongan Beach Retreat Bungalows, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 878 6131 3468 (sales@lembonganbeachretreat.com). Six renovated bungalow rooms - some with stunning bathrooms. Situated on the Jungut Batu beachfront in front of Shipwrecks surf break. Close to the many waterfront eating houses & nightly entertainment. Clean, freshly painted rooms, new linen, nice bathrooms with vanity and mirror, western toilets and shower. Lovely gardens with coral-edged paths. A quiet & peaceful retreat but only a few meters from the many restaurants, eateries & entertainment along the beachfront. Balinese cooking classes can be arranged & yoga classes are available on request. Special Balinese meals on request. Australian owned & operated. Rp 200,000 to 300,000.
Pondok Baruna Guest House and Restaurant, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 812 3900686 (info@worlddiving.com). All rooms are doubles or twins furnished with classic bamboo furniture and traditional Balinese carvings. The bathrooms, however, are en suite, western style. Baruna's restaurant serves a fantastic selection of home cooked traditional Balinese and Javanese dishes, with daily specials dreamed up by the resident chef. There is a purpose built dive swimming pool in the new garden complex which is available to all guests. Rp 80,000.
Secret Garden Bungalows, (Located behind Baruna & Scooby Doo, beside the black temple. Halfway between Shipwrecks & Playgrounds surf breaks), ☎ +62 813 53136861 (info@bigfishdiving.com), [23]. Budget accommodation in a tropical garden, only 50m from the beach. The 9 fan-cooled rooms are clean and spacious and have semi-outdoor bathrooms. Double/twin rooms Rp 80,000 per night and facilities include book exchange and tourist info, outdoor shower for surfers, sofa area for relaxation. Can arrange diving & snorkeling.

Mid-range
Coconuts Beach Resort, Jungut, ☎ +62 361 728088 (sales@bali-activities.com). A well-established traditional ocean front resort with air-con or fan-cooled villas, en-suite bathrooms, hot water, 2 pools, restaurant, bar, internet, Indovision. All villas have spectacular views of the surf breaks and Mount Agung on Bali. from US$ 36.
Dream Beach Huts, Dream Beach, ☎ +62 813 38737344 (sales@dreambeachlembongan.com). checkin: 14.00; checkout: 12.00. Right on the beach front at Dream Beach (south coast) with ocean views, spectacular sunsets and crashing waves. Facilities: lounge chairs and hammocks on the beach, laundry service, pool table, motorbike rental, cafe, bar and restaurant, mini library, mosquito nets, towels in the room, open air private bathrooms, fan-cooled, balconies, king size beds, Balinese massage and extra pillows. From US$ 55.
Lumbung Bali Huts, Mushroom Bay, ☎ +62 813 37536464. Right on the Mushroom Bay beach-front. Room rate includes breakfast, snorkeling (for stays of more than 3 night) and kayak activities. US$ 60.
Mainski Lembongan Resort, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 361 9237322 or +62 815 58289123 (sales@mainski-lembongan-resort.com). On Jungut Batu Beach in front of Shipwrecks surf break. Fan-cooled and air-conditioned rooms plus luxury suites, villas and a beachfront honeymoon suite. Newly renovated & upgraded resort featuring: swimming pool on the Beach, poolside sun lounges, bar & restaurant, games area (pool table & table tennis) and WiFi internet. Prices per double room/per night: standard fan-cooled US$ 28, deluxe fan US$31, deluxe air-con US$ 37, luxury Suites US$ 74, 3 bedroom villas US$140, honeymoon suite US$150. All including breakfast and tax. Mainski's Sunset Beat restaurant/bar features a traditional indonesian warung/buffet with delicious local food, an international a-la-carte menu & an Aussie style BBQ every night. The beachfront & poolside bar is unique to Lembongan in that it features a games area with pool table/table tennis, music DVD entertainment on the giant screen nightly, great cocktail list & icy cold beers. Mainski is Australian owned and operated.
Nanuk's Bungalow, Tamarind Beach Lembongan, ☎ +62 828 97006977 (nanuks_bungalow@yahoo.com). checkin: 2PM; checkout: Noon. Bungalows between Playgrounds and Mushroom Bay. These bungalows are two storey wooden houses built in an artistic Balinese style. Facilities include swimming pool, bar & restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, double/twin rooms, bathrooms are attached to each hut, towels in the room, shampoo, bath foam, mosquito net, ceiling fan, balcony, laundry on request, Balinese massage, motorbike and car rental. Special price for low season (October to January) of US$ 35 including continental breakfast Normal price US$ 55.
Playgrounds, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 366 24524 (info@playgroundslembongan.com). Clean double rooms with air-conditioned at Rp 450,000 per night and fan-cooled at Rp 400,000). Family rooms are offered at Rp 500,000 and villas for A$ 200-250 per night. Nice views over the bay.
Tamarind Beach Bungalows, Bar and Restaurant, Tamarind Beach, ☎ +62 361 8572572 (info@balitamarind.com). Balinese style bungalows between Playgrounds surf break and Mushroom Bay. Facilities: children's and adult swimming pool, mini library, BBQ on request, mosquito nets, towels, ceiling fan, shower and bath tub. Bar & restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Special price for low season (October to March) of US$ 40 for a large room and US$ 35 for a standard room. Continental breakfast included.
The Tanis Villas, Mushroom Bay, ☎ +62 361 7432344 (sales@taniisviillas.com). checkin: 14.00; checkout: 12.00. Villas overlooking Mushroom Bay with open air shower and mosquito nets both air conditioned and fan cooled. Other facilities include a massage room, table tennis, TV room with international channels and computer with internet access. BBQ dinners on the beach, and a free daily breakfast. The resort also offers a sunset dinner cruises on a traditional outrigger and a 24 hour free doctor consulting service. From US$ 40.
Villa Atas Nusa Lembongan, (enquiry@nusalembongantravel.com). A fully self-contained single villa which has on the upper level: 2 king bedrooms (or 1 king size and 2 singles) 2 bathrooms and an open living area. Sleeps 4 plus day-bed in the lounge. On the ground level: a fully self contained air-conditioned king bedroom. Overlooks all three main surfbreaks: Playgrounds, Lacerations and Shipwrecks. The ground level unit features indoor/outdoor living at its best with an open lounge that borders the plunge pool and an outdoor dining area that steps down to the garden. Sleeps 2 plus 2 daybeds. Solar hot water system and CD player on both levels.
Ware Ware Surf Bungalows, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 361 8070181. 9 standard rooms and 1 family room. Fan-cooled, new and clean with panoramic views. Nicely furnished with wooden antique beds with mosquito net. Overlooking Sanghiang Bay with its clear sapphire-blue waters.

Splurge
Batu Karang Lembongan Resort and Day Spa, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 366 24880 (info@batukaranglembongan.com). A 5 star boutique resort with complete facilities including Muntig's restaurant, bar, day spa, 25 metre lap pool, 9 x 9 metre swim up pool bar, 9 x 9 metre infinity edge pool, steam room, gymnasium, day lounge, wedding pavilion, conference facility and probably some of the best views on the island. Situated away from the more noisy and crowded Mushroom Bay. All rooms have air-conditioning, internet, safety box, 220 thread cotton sheets, king size double beds, mini bars and turn down service. The outdoor bathrooms and toilets have spectacular views over the surf breaks and across to Mt Agung in Bali. Has its own water and sewage treatment plants so the water you use is clean and your carbon footprint is minimized. Rooms from US$ 232 per night inclusive of all government tax and service charges and American breakfast.
Indiana Kenanga Villas, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 366 24471 (indianakenangavillas@gmail.com). A French owned and run luxury suite/villa resort in the Jungut Batu area which opened in July 2009. Offers six 1 bedroom suites and two 2 bedroom villas. Rates US$ 120 to 170 for a suite and US$ 320 to 370 for a two bedroom villa.
Nusa Lembongan Resort, Mushroom Bay, ☎ +62 361 725864 (info-nlr@nusalembonganresort.com). This 12 cottage luxury hotel has been around for a while and it has definitely seen better days. The location is superb though right on the west headland of Mushroom Bay. Seven of the cottages have clear, dramatic ocean views as does the bar and restaurant.
Villa Shambala, (sales@villashambala.com). Two bedroom oceanfront private villa with cliff edge swimming pool. One of the very few private villas available for rental on Nusa Lembongan. US$ 120.
Waka Nusa, (info@wakanusa.com). A small resort right on the beach at Mushroom Bay from the luxury boutique hotel group Waka. The resort prides themselves on giving somehing of a Robinson Crusoe type experience with no air-conditioning, TV sets or telephones in the rooms. Well designed breezy individual cottages. From US$ 140.

Contact

Telephone
International phone operators: 101.
International Direct Dialing prefix: 001, 007, or 008.
Directory inquiries
108 from a landline or 0361-108 from a mobile phone.
Internet
There are well signed public internet cafes in the Jungut Batu area. Expect to pay about Rp 30,000 per hour. Service is sometimes very slow.
Some of the better places to stay have wireless internet capability for guests.

Get out

The vast majority of visitors to Nusa Lembongan leave the way they came in, ie. back to Bali.
There are options to continue eastwards to Lombok though. Blue Water Express offers a daily (currently daily but check first) Nusa Lembongan to Gili Islands and Lombok service departing Jungut Batu at 11.00AM for Rp 590,000 one way.

For the adventurous, a side trip to Nusa Penida island is an option.

2 comments:

  1. well written blog with great info and sweet pics.

    Destination Travels
    http://www.destinationtravels.in/
    destinationtrvl@gmail.com

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