Totalling some 200 square kilometres Nusa Penida is much larger than the better known Nusa Lembongan. However, tourist infrastructure is very limited here. It is though an island of stunning natural rugged beauty and tourist development plans have been rumoured and mooted to no effect for many years now.
Due to a lack of natural fresh water, little is grown or produced on Nusa Penida and even basic foodstuffs come by boat from Bali. Visitors should therefore expect higher prices than in Bali and not bank on any tourism-related luxury items being available for purchase here. Plan accordingly.
In 2004 the Friends of the National Park Foundation (FNPF)started an introduction program to Nusa Penida of the near-extinct Bali Starling (Leucopsar rothschildi). By the spring of 2009, 58 chicks had successfully hatched in the wild. Although the long term viability of this population remains in grave doubt, this and similar initiatives in the West Bali National Park would seem the last remaining hopes for the Bali Starling avoiding complete extinction in the wild.
How to get in
Most visitors to Nusa Penida come via Nusa Lembongan. It is possible to get to Nusa Penida direct from Sanur, Kusamba or Padang Bai in East Bali but this is difficult, the service is very sketchy and it cannot be recommended for reasons of safety. For details of the options to get to Nusa Lembongan from Bali see here.
Public boats depart daily at 6.00 AM close to the suspension bridge between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan and run to Toyapakeh or Buyuk Harbour in northern Nusa Penida. There are also services from the Jungut Batu area of Nusa Lembongan to Nusa Penida. All of these can be a little 'worrying' at times and are often very crowded.
Charter boats are available, departing from and arriving at the same area as the public boats. If you are staying on Nusa Lembongan, ask at your hotel. If not, go to the shoreline close to the suspension bridge or to the beach at Jungut Batu and ask around amongst the boatmen. Rates certainly vary but expect to pay around Rp 300,000.
Quicksilver run daily cruises from Benoa Harbour in Bali to their monstrous pontoon which floats off the north western shore of Nusa Penida. The trip includes watersport activities centred on the pontoon. Rp 570,000 per person.
How to go around
Renting a motorcycle is the most practical option. Some visitors from Nusa Lembongan arrive with rented pushbikes - make sure you get permission to take the bike off Nusa Lembongan first. You should note that roads in Nusa Penida are rough and in remote areas no more than stone-strewn tracks. Local public transport is in small old buses or on the back of a truck.
What you can see
There are many quiet and secluded white sand beaches along the north coast of Nusa Penida. Other geographical highlights include limestone caves, spectacular high coastal cliffs in the south and east and rugged hill tops in the high centre.
Nusa Penida has several interesting Hindu temples. When visiting be respectful and always heed local advice.
Crystal Bay, (take the only small road which heads west from the main road at Sakti village and keep going until you hit the coast.). A stunning white sand beach at Banjar Penida west of Sakti village on the north western coast facing Nusa Ceningan. Perfect clear waters and excellent snorkelling. Lovely white sand beach and a great place for a picnic. A truly idyllic spot and you are likely to have it to yourself apart for the odd local villager and maybe a diveboat offshore.
FNPF office, Ped village, ☎ +62 361 977978. Office of the Friends of the National Park Foundation in Ped. Learn about the Bali Starling introduction program and other matters of environmental concern on Nusa Penida.
Goa Karang Sari (Karangsari or Karangsari Cave), Sampalan/Suana. Large limestone caves on the east coast about 4 kilometres north of Suana village. Find a local to help guide you and bring a flashlight. Some impressive stalactites and other typical limestone formations. The entrance is a short climb from the road level. Of great religious and cultural significance.
Pura Penetaran Dalem, Ped village (at Ped village on the main north coast road between Toyapakeh and Sampalan.). An extremely important temple to the Hindu Balinese many of whom make an annual pilgrimage to Nusa Penida specifically to pray here to protect against illness, disease and death. This temple is built on a quite grand scale which makes for something of a contrast with the generally rather austere nature of Nusa Penida.
Puncak Mundi (Mundi Hill). The highest point of Nusa Penida at some 521 metres above sea level. Great views from here. This area is also home to an alternative energy facility with wind turbines and a solar panel farm. Puncak Mundi temple perches high on the hill.
Pura Batu Medahu and Pura Batu Kuning. Two interesting and stuningly located temples on the east coast road south of Suana. Instead of taking the main road form Suana heading south west, continue on the coast road towards the tiny village of Semaya. You will come to the two temples (Pura Batu Madan first) after about 1.5 km and before you reach Semaya.
Sebuluh Waterfall. Waterfall which is impressive during the wet season (only). In the central west of the island close to Batu Madeg village.
South Coast Cliffs. The whole southern coast of Nusa Penida has spectacular, high white limestone cliffs which will simply take your breath away. Even by the standards of Nusa Penida, the southern quarter is remote and inaccessible. The roads are difficult and in places distinctly hairy. But once you get there it will all seem worthwhile. Try anywhere along the south coast from Pendem, around Bakung Cape to the coast west of Batu Madeg. Allow plenty of time as the chances are you will get lost at some stage!
What you can do
Nusa Penida is best known as a world class diving destination. There are more than 20 identified dive sites around the iland, the most notable including Crystal Bay, Manta Point, Toyapakeh, Suana Bay and Malibu Point. The rich waters around the three islands support no less than 247 species of coral and 562 species of fish.
Many dive operators based in Bali and neighbouring Nusa Lembongan offer specific dive trips to Nusa Penida. Special attractions include fabulous Mola Mola (Oceanic Sunfish) in season and large Manta Rays year round. Mola Mola are migratory fish and most likely from July to October although sightings are reported all year round. There is diving available here for beginners but most of the dives require a decent level of experience as currents are strong and unpredictable.
MM Diving, Toyapakeh, Nusa Penida, ☎ +62 813 37077590 (monikajeglikova@seznam.cz). An established Czech-run dive center actually located on Nusa Penida.
World Diving, Jungut Batu, Nusa Lembongan, ☎ +62 812 3900686 (info@world-diving.com). Probably the most established PADI accredited dive center on neighbouring Nusa Lembongan. World Diving offers daily dive trips to the key Nusa Penida dive sites.
This is a wild, rugged and largely untamed island which offers plenty to those with an adventurous spirit. Trekking and mountain-biking are rewarding with amazing coastline views. The terrain away from the coast is hilly rising to nearly 550 metres and the vista back to Bali is stunning. Camping is a wise (or only) option for those who really want to explore this wild island away from the populated northern coast.
Absorb the culture. The native people are Hindu as in Bali but the language spoken is an ancient dialect of Balinese no longer heard elsewhere. The architecture and dance is also distinct. There is also a small muslim enclave in the north which will remind visitors of culture in the more rural parts of Lombok.
Find food
There are simple local warungs on Nusa Penida but no western style restaurants to speak of. The main market area in Sampalan is a good place to head to. Fish is recommended.
Find drink
Remember to take plenty of water on board. The climate here is hotter and drier than in Bali and you will dehydrate quickly.
Check in
There are some small, simple homestays and bungalows on Nusa Penida. These are in the north between Toyapakeh and Sampalan. There is nothing even approaching mid-range accommodation though. Visitors to the island often do not book ahead and instead turn up and take their chances.
Visitors wishing to explore the remote, rugged areas of the island in the high centre and south may be able to find informal accomodation with a local family by asking a head of village (Kepala Desa). The only other alternative away from the north coast is camping.
Bungalow PEMDA, Sampalan (opposite the police station), ☎ +62 813 38539435. The government homestay on Nusa Penida with 14 rooms.
Losmen Trang, Toyapakeh, ☎ +62 852 37643649. Simple rooms close to the beach in Toyapakeh
Made's Homestay, Sampalan, ☎ +62 852 37643649. Simple single and double rooms in this friendly family-run homestay. edit
MM Diving Resort, Toyapakeh, ☎ +62 813 37077590 (monikajeglikova@seznam.cz). A Czech diving resort with 8 rooms, a small restaurant and a library. Offer many diving packages. Unclear as to whether you can book the accommodation without taking a diving package.
Contact
International phone operators: 101
International Direct Dialing prefix: 001, 007, or 008.
Directory inquiries
108 from a landline or 0361-108 from a mobile phone.
There are no public internet facilities on Nusa Penida and the nearest are at Jungut Batu on Nusa Lembongan.
Get out
The best advice is to get out from one of the northern points in the same way as you came in. A boat to Nusa Lembongan and then onward to Bali or Lombok is recommended although ferries of a questionable standard direct to Bali are available. There is no onward direct service to Lombok or other points east.
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