Balangan. Rated by some as the single best beach in Bali and one which receives relatively few visitors.
Dreamland. Formerly a very beautiful beach which has been ruined by the adjacent Pecatu Graha Indah "New Kuta" development.
Padang-Padang. A truly lovely beach with a big surf break offshore.
The Bukit Peninsula is southernmost point of Bali, Indonesia.
This is a large limestone peninsula which, bar a slither of land just south of the airport, would be a separate island. It is rugged and dry and pre-tourist development this was a real backwater of Bali.
The Bukit (as it is commonly referred to) includes the famous cliff-hanging temple at Uluwatu, a number of Bali's very best beaches and the top surfing spots on the island. As is so often the case, it was intrepid surfers who really opened up the eyes of the world to this part of the island.
The two main towns with strong local communities on the Bukit are Pecatu and Ungasan.
This article covers the whole of the Bukit Peninsula south of Jimbaran and west of Nusa Dua.
How to get in
The Bukit Peninsula is connected to Kuta through Jimbaran by the busy Jalan Bypass Nusa Dua and this is the only route in. Take this main road south to the junction with Jalan Uluwatu II (the famous McDonald's junction) and turn west towards Uluwatu.
A taxi from Kuta to Uluwatu for example takes 30 to 40 minutes on winding roads and will cost about Rp 120,000 one-way. If you are just visiting for the day, consider asking the driver to wait trip as it can be difficult to find transport back. Figure on paying the taxi driver Rp 20,000/hour to wait. Joining a tour can be a cheaper way of getting to Uluwatu.
How to go around
Exploring the Bukit lends itself very well to a rented motorbike. A number of the nicer beaches are reached via small roads or dirt tracks and a motorbike is the best method.
Taxis are not plentiful but can be found. There is a taxi stand at Padang-Padang just north of the bridge and one or two taxis are often sitting there waiting for customers.
A few bemos ply the main routes only but they are neither regular nor reliable.
What you can see
 |
| Uluwatu Temple |
Entrance fee is Rp 3,000. As usual, you need to be properly dressed to enter and sarongs and sashes can be rented at the entrance. Guides, once famously mercenary, hassle visitors less than they used to, although they will offer to "protect" you from the monkeys, for a tip of course. Note that while you are free to walk around the temple grounds, the central courts can only be entered during special rituals. The temple is inhabited by large number of monkeys, who are extremely adept at snatching visitors' belonging, including bags, cameras and eyeglasses. Keep a very close grip on all your belongings and stow away your eyeglasses if at all possible. If you do have something taken, the monkeys can usually be induced to exchange it for some fruit. Needless to say, rewarding the monkeys like this only encourages them to steal more. Locals and even the temple priests will be happy to do the job for you, naturally in exchange for a tip (Rp 10,000 - 50,000).
There is also a very scenic Uluwatu cave with rock formations leading into a beach close to the temple. This is a popular spot for surfers.
There are number of good white sand beaches on the Bukit Peninsula which many consider the best in Bali:
Balangan. Rated by some as the single best beach in Bali and one which receives relatively few visitors. It takes a bit of finding but from the main junction at Ungasan heading out from Jimbaran towards Uluwatu turn right (west) by Nirmala Supermarket. The road then twists and turns for about 6 km until you reach the beach. Keep following informal signs to "Balangan" or "Balangan Surf" and a west-northwest bearing. This is a stunning beach and well worth the effort required in finding it. There are a few very laid-back warungs on the beach and even a couple of bungalows where you can stay the night.
Bingin. Another white sand beach north of Padang-Padang and south of Dreamland. The beach here is not eay to access as the cliffs are high but the ocean views alone make the visit worthwhile. From the village of Pecatu head towards Padang-Padang and look for informal signs on your right directing you to "Bingin Surf". Proceed down the maze of small roads here until you reach the obvious parking areas at the clifftop. There are two sets of steps down the cliff to the beach which are known as the northerly and southerly steps.
Dreamland. Formerly a very beautiful beach which has been ruined by the adjacent Pecatu Graha Indah "New Kuta" development. Still has excellent surfing conditions, especially for intermediate surfers & on days when other breaks are too big to surf. Right & left reef break, not too shallow and with decent shape. The entrance road to Pecatu Graha Indah is about 2 km southwest of Ungasan on Jl Uluwatu and is impossible to miss adorned as it by huge statues and truly massive billboards. The entrance fee to use the road down to the waterfront is currently Rp 10,000.
Padang-Padang. A truly lovely beach with a big surf break offshore. Accessed from a stepped pathway on the north side of the obvious bridge 3 kilometres north of Uluwatu Temple heading back towards Pecatu. The white sand beach here is a little bit narrow at the highest of tides but is otherwise very nice indeed.
What you can do
Uluwatu is a very well known destination among surfing enthusiasts. Most of the surf spots are only suitable for advanced or expert surfers though - the waves are big here. The main surfing spots are Uluwatu, Dreamland, Padang-Padang, Bingin/Impossibles and Suluban.Kecak Dance (monkey dance) performances are held at the temple daily between 6 PM and 7 PM. Tickets for the visually spectacular if rather unoriginal show (it was invented in the 1930s) performed for tourists cost Rp 50,000.
Chosing to get married or renewing vows in Bali is an increasingly popular event and the Bukit Peninsula is the most popular destination for such ceremonies. There is a stunning, modernist, purpose-built cliff-front wedding chapel close to Nyang Nyang Beach and the Bulgari Hotel an a number of resorts offer specialist wedding packages and planning.
Tirtha Wedding Chapel, Jl Raya Uluwatu, Banjar Dinas Karang Boma, Pecatu (on the southern cliff edge between The Bulgari and Puri Bali at Nyang Nyang), ☎ +62 361 8471151 . This impressive chapel was designed by leading architect Glen Parker and is stuningly located on the cliff top above Nyang Nyang Beach. The architecture is very modern indeed and the chapel is essentially a series of glass-walled triangular pavilions surounded by reflection pools. Full wedding planning services offered.
New Kuta Golf Course, Kawasan Pecatu Indah, Jl Uluwatu, Pecatu, ☎ +62 361 8481333 (info@newkutagolf.com). This golf course is stunningly located on top of the cliffs above Dreamland beach and is a top class venue. It is part of the highly controversial Pecatu Graha Indah development that was the brainchild of former dictator Soeharto's son Tommy. The dubious acquistion methods of the land here by his development company from the traditional landowners is still a huge bone of contention in Bali and that, coupled with the development ruining Dreamland Beach, has resorted in a lot of controversy. Anyone wishing to play at the course may wish to bear all of that in mind when making a decision.
Souvenir
There are the usual souvenir shops at the parking area at the entrance to Uluwatu temple. Otherwise, this is not an area of Bali known for its shopping.
There are convenience stores/small supermarkets in the villages of Pecatu and Ungasan for everyday shopping.
Looking for food
The growing number of five star resorts on the Bukit Peninsula all have top class restaurants (and prices to match) and The Bulgari and Karma Kandara are especially highly rated.
At a more humble level there are a host of simple local roadside cafes catering to the young surfing crowd at Bingin, Padang-Padang and Uluwatu. A lot of these do not have names, let alone contact details and the best advice is to follow the crowds. Expect cold beers and good, simple Indonesian food.
Cafe Moka, Ungasan. Excellent coffee shop and cafe in Ungusan village close to the main Nirmala Supermarket. Bread and pastries are fresh daily and salads are excellent. Free wireless internet for customers.
Jiwa Juice Internet Cafe, 108 Jl Labuan Sait, Pecatu (on main road between Bingin and Padang Padang), ☎ +62 361 8470736. 8AM to 10PM (dry season); 8AM to 8PM (wet season). Jiwa Juice is a full service internet cafe and wireless hotspot. Serves breakfast, sandwiches, salads and smoothies. Also serves as a business centre, has a bulletin board and is a well known local meeting spot. Jiwa means soul in Indonesian.
Drink ?
This is certainly not an area in which to expect any nightlife at all and visitors staying here wanting some bar or club culture make the 45 minute journey up to Kuta or Seminyak.
You will almost always find somebody to join you for a relaxed beer on the beach though as there is a strong surf culture here. The beaches at Padang-Padang, Bingin and Uluwatu are the best bets.
Check in
This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under US$ 30
Mid-range US$ 30 to 150
Splurge Over US$ 150
As a tourist destination, the whole Bukit Peninsula area was popularised by surfers. There are still numerous small, cheap bungalows close to the main surf points at Uluwatu, Padang-Padang, Bingin and Suluban and many visitors just turn up and find what is available.
The area has more recently sprouted an impressive collection of high-end villas and resorts as well. Beware false advertising though: only the most expensive "villas" are completely private and self-contained, while most share at least some facilities (eg. pool) and the cheapest ones are just clusters of bungalows.
Budget
Chocky's Place, (at the base of the cliff right on the beach at Bingin. Park at the top and walk down the southerly steps), ☎ +62 818 05444833 (info@chockysplace.com). Very good value rooms literally on the beach - the water laps right up to the property at high tide. Popular with surfers as the main Bingin break is right in front. From Rp 90,000.
Flowerbud Bungalows, Balangan Beach, ☎ +62 816 4722310. Eight very charming rustic bamboo bungalows on Balangan Beach, several of which are family-sized. This great little place is representative of a Bali that is fast disappearing. Simple cafe facility and lots of old fashioned Bali charm.
Gong, Jl Pantai Suluban, Uluwatu (on the main road to Uluwatu Temple about 500 metres before the temple gates), ☎ +62 361 769976 (thegongacc@yahoo.com). Bit of an institution with the surfer crowd. Good, clean budget accommodation. You can also rent a motorbike here. Extremely popular. Rp 90,000.
Guna Mandala Inn, Padang Padang, ☎ +62 361 8470673. Budget accommodation just 100 metres from the entrance track to Padang Padang beach. Rooms are on two levels with the upstairs option definitely preferable as it gets nice breezes. Rp 175,000.
Kongsi Inn, Padang-Padang. Just about as basic as accommodation gets in Bali these days. Very much aimed at young surfers and in a great spot for easy access to the Padang-Padang break. Simple huts with bamboo walls and cold water. From Rp 70,000.
Rocky's Bungalows, Jl Pantai Suluban, Uluwatu, ☎ +62 817 346209. A old time favourite with the surf community. A good location close to Uluwatu with nice ocean views out over the Suluban cliff-line. From Rp 175,000.
Mid-range
Balangan Sea View Bungalows, Balangan Beach, ☎ +62 812 3679212 (robbyandrosita@hotmail.com). Right by the stunning beach at Balangan and only 50 metres from the cliff. Popular with surfers. Traditional style bamboo bungalows with swimming pool, internet access, restaurant and airport transfers. From Rp 325,000.
Mick's Place, Bingin (on the Bingin clifftop close to the northerly steps), (booking@micksplace.com). Four beautiful cliffront bungalows with a cliff-hanging infinity edge pool. Styles itself as a yoga retreat, a haven for surfers and a wedding venue. Everything here is very well done indeed. From US$ 60.
Mu, Bingin (on the cliff edge at Bingin close to the car park and the southerly steps), ☎ +62 361 7428249 (jbataillardbali@gmail.com). Four clifftop bungalows with thatched roofs set around a large freeform pool. Wonderful views from the Bingin cliffront here. Popular with surfers and those who just want to be away from it all. From €60.
Puri Bali, Jl Uluwatu, Nyang Nyang (directly above Nyang Nyang Beach. From Uluwatu take the main road heading towards Pecatu and after about 1.5 km look for the sign-posted turning to the south (right)), ☎ +62 361 7448300 (info@puribalivillas.com). Five individual cottages all with large bathrooms and set in huge cliff-front grounds. This place has seen better days and the rooms are in need of renovation. It is a very spectacular location though, set looking due south on the highest cliffs in Bali. The beach is a long way down but it is quite stunning and there is a path leading down the cliff. US$ 150.
Sandat Mas Cottages, Jl Pantai Suluban, Uluwatu (about 1 km north of Uluwatu Temple on the road to The Istana), ☎ +62-361 769965 (info@sandatmas.com). Large range of accommodation here from regular rooms up to a private three bedroom villa with its own pool. Clean, simple and not bad value although the cheaper rooms are not air-conditioned and there is no restaurant. Good ocean views and the cottages directly face sunset.
The Temple Lodge, Bingin (on the Bingin clifftop close to the southerly steps), ☎ +62 813 37769477 (ducabruzzi@hotmail.com). Boutique accommodation at Bingin with 3 creatively designed bungalows built into the cliff face. Truly amazing views over the west coast surf breaks. Aims itself primarily at surfers but this would be a great value choice for any visitor who really wants to experience the best of the Bukit Peninsula. The restaurant prides itself on a health conscious menu and is very suitable for vegetarians. From about €50.
Splurge
Alila Villas Uluwatu, Jl Belimbing Sari Banjar Tembiyak, Pecatu (on the southern ciff edge of the Bukit about 4 km south east of Pecatu), ☎ +62 361 848 2166 (uluwatu@alilahotels.com). There are 84 private villas in this modern and stylish cliff-edge luxury resort. Options of one, two or three bedroom villas, all of which have their own private pool and ocean views. All the facilites you would expect at a substantial five star resort including: 3 restaurants, 50 metre lap pool, spa, fitness centre and wedding facilities. Despite the name, this resort is about 7 km from Uluwatu. From US$.
Blue Point Bay Villas, Jl Labuan Sait, Uluwatu (on the cliffront, just to the north of Uluwatu Temple), ☎ +62-361-769888 (info@bluepointbayvillas.com). Small cliff-edge resort with one and two bedroom villa accommodation. Two pools, one of which is located right on the cliff-edge. Good in-house spa and decent restaurant.
Bulgari Resort, Jl Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin (almost due south from Pecatu, well signposted), ☎ +62-361-8471000. Clifftop superluxury resort every bit as stylish as you'd expect from a boutique hotel run by a fashion label. Plunge pool, private elevator to the beach, excellent restaurants and a price tag to match. From US$1,400.
Karma Kandara Resort, Jl Wijaya Kusuma (on the cliff-front south east of Pecatu, 1 km east of The Alila), ☎ +62 361 708800. Forty six private villas perched upon a clifftop with unobstructed views of the rolling surf of the Indian Ocean below. Each villa features a private walled garden complete with an infinity edge swimming pool. All bedrooms have their own en-suite bathroom. Living rooms are open plan comprising fully equipped kitchens, lounge and dining areas. A private cliff escalator provides access to Nammos Beach Club with its bar and fresh seafood grill. Gay/Lesbian friendly staff and management. Member of Leading Small Hotels of the World.
Private Villas
All the villas listed below are standalone and feature private entrances, accommodation and their own swimming pools.
The Istana, Uluwatu, (+62 361 730668). Five bedroom, clifftop luxury villa just to the north of Uluwatu Temple and directly overlooking the famous surf break. This is one of Bali's true super-villas and it has been featured in many international magazines. Sleeps up to 10 people, two private pools and extensive gardens - fully staffed (private cook, maids, etc). US$1,500 to 2,500.
Suluban Cliff Villa, Jl Pantai Suluban, Suluban (just off Jl Labuan Sait in front of Rocky's Bungalows), (info@sulubancliffbali.com). A very modern four bedroom cliff-front villa above Suluban beach. Extremely well furnished and fitted and has one of the most dramatic cliff-edge pools in Bali, complete with a glass wall. Fully staffed and serviced. From US$ 1,300.
Villa Moonlight, Uluwatu. Private luxury villa featuring four bedrooms and ocean view. Located just a little inland from Uluwatu in an elevated postion with great ocean views. Built in 2008 to a high standard and is nicely fitted and furnished. From US$ 595.
Villa Pemutih, Padang Padang. Four bedroom private cliff-edge villa with a dramatic infinity pool. All bedrooms with large en-suite baths. Big open living room and fully equipped kitch. Fully staffed and serviced with car, driver, maids, chef, security etc. Private steps down the cliff to the beach. from US$ 950.
Contact
Internet
Most of the Bukit Peninsula is now covered by ADSL services and you will find WiFi available at most hotels and many cafes (see eat section).
Get out
This is the most southerly point of Bali. Unless you are inclined to make your way east to Nusa Dua, the only option is to return to town via Jimbaran.
No comments:
Post a Comment