CANDIDASA

Candidasa is a coastal town in East Bali.

The stretch of coastline from Manggis through Candidasa town itself and east to Bugbug is normally just referred to as Candidasa.

This is a laid back and very relaxing area of Bali with a wide range of accommodation options. Many visitors, especially Europeans, combine a stay in the hotspots of south Bali with a more relaxed break here.

The black sand beaches are very narrow and often disappear altogether at high tide.
Government Tourist Office: Jl Raya Candidasa (close to the lotus lagoon). Tel: +62 363 41204.

How to get in

Candidasa is 60 to 80 minutes from Sanur along the recently opened east coast road and is also easily reached from Ubud. A direct trip from the airport will take about 90 minutes. Candidasa is about 20 minutes further east from Padang Bai where public ferries from Lombok arrive.

Candidasa is well served by the national Perama bus company and there is a local office on the main road next to the police station.

As elsewhere in Bali, motor-bikes for rent are easily found in Candidasa. There are very few formal metered taxis but plenty of private cars ready to get you around - fix the charge in advance. Bemos ply the main coast road with some regularity.

What you can see

The Bali Aga at Tenganan

In the hills just 4 km inland from Candidasa at Tenganan is the most famous Bali Aga (original Balinese) village. There is another (distinct) Bali Aga community in the village of Trunyan on the shores of Lake Batur near Kintamani, but visitors are advised that Tenganan is much easier to reach and far more welcoming of outsiders.

The Bali Aga people have retained an ancient pre-Majapahit Balinese culture and this is apparent in the many obvious differences from the rest of Bali which you will find in Tenganan. The villagers maintain a strict adherence to ancestor worship, cosmology and other animist beliefs as well as a rigid social organization. Villagers must live inside the village and marry from within. Tenganan is closed to outsiders after dark. The dialect of Balinese spoken here is heard nowhere else and differs substantially from even the other Bali Aga community in Trunyan.

This is an isolated community in almost every way. The village is separated from the rest of the world by a solid stone wall that entirely encompasses the village. There are four gates in the wall, one for each point of the compass. All houses are exactly alike and aligned either side of natural stone pathways. Each house is accessed by a flight of steps and then a simple gate which opens into a courtyard around which are arranged the bedrooms, the kitchen and a longhouse which serves as a store. Each house has its own empty shrine where it is believed ancestor spirits reside when they visit their descendants.

The focus point of the village is the 70 foot long Bali Agung where the village elders meet to discuss matters of concern. This structure is clearly very old but nobody seems to know just how old. The major communal village temple is the Pura Puseh (the temple of origin) and this actually lies outside the village walls just to the north.

Tenganan produces some of the finest woven basket-ware and a fabled double weave ikat fabric, called Geringsing. This fabric is extraordinarily complex and fine pieces fetch enormous prices in the international markets. Collectors of Geringsing have very deep pockets.

A local custom that has been become a popular tourist spectacle involves ritual blood sacrifice whereby combatants fight using wickedly thorned pandan leaves. The aim of each participant is to draw blood from their opponent. This ritual combat is known as mekare kare and is scheduled whenever there is an important temple ceremony in Tenganan. An elaborate feast follows.

Goa Lawah temple and bat cave is one of Bali's key nine directional temples and serves as a guardian against dark spirits from the ocean. The cave here is a well known bat roost. On the north side of the coast road about 10 km west of Candidasa

There is a quiet and little visited black sand beach west of Candidasa proper called Pantai Labuan Amok. Although it has an unsightly Pertamina oil terminal at one end, this is a clean beach in a pretty bay and the offshore waters offer good snorkeling with live coral in shallow waters. There are many other small coves and bays to explore in this area and all visitors are encouraged to do so.

The lotus lagoon in the middle of town can be a spectacular sight if you are lucky with timing. The main town temple is right opposite and its origins are thought to go back to the 11th century.

The beautiful water palace at Tirta Gangga is owned by the Karangasem Royal Family and is about 20 minutes northeast of Candidasa proper just to the north of Karangasem town. Stunning rice paddy terraces in this area as well.

What you can do

Visit the nearby village of Tenganan where a strong community which retains ancient pre-Majapahit Balinese culture and known as the Bali Aga (literally, the original Balinese) resides. The village is signposted from the main coast road in Candidasa. All drivers will know the way here. Alternatively grab a lift from Candidasa on a motorbike or stroll the 4 km track. A small admission charge to the village will be charged.

Candidasa is a good starting point for arranging a climb of Mount Agung. Your hotel will be able to help with arranging a guide. There are also numerous less arduous trekking options in the nearby hills.

This is a renowned diving area with good sites close offshore as well as around the nearby islands of Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan. The close offshore rocky islets of Gili Kambing, Gili Biaha and Gili Mimpang offer superb but demanding diving which is only really suitable for more experienced divers. Currents are very strong here. Expect large manta rays and even mola mola in season.
Divelite, Jl Raya Candidasa, ☎ +62 363 41660 (info@divelite.com). Dive operator serving Japanese visitors. Website and instruction is in Japanese.
Shangrila Scuba Divers, ☎ +62 813 37335081 (divingatbalishangrila@yahoo.com). PADI dive centre offering full range of course and fun dives. Located a little out of the way but have a booking desk in town. British owned and managed.
Sub Ocean Bali Divers, Jl Sengkidu (on the beach lane at Senkidu which is close to the Tenganan turn off), ☎ +62 363 41411 (info@suboceanbali.com). PADI dive centre offering a fullrange of courses and fun dives. English and Dutch speaking instructors.
Yes Dive, Jalan Raya Candidasa,, ☎ +62 363 41982 (info@yes-dive.com). PADI and SSI dive centre. Also offer nitrox dives.

What you can buy

Most of the finer woven basketware found in Bali is produced in villages around Candidasa. If you buy here you are directly supporting the makers.

The famous double ikat fabric Geringsing is produced and sold in Tenganan village.

Find Food

There are a host of waterside or ocean view cafes along the main coastal road in Candidasa.

A local speciality food is Satay Lilit, a minced fish satay. Look for streetside vendors.
Aquaria Bali, Jl Puri Bagus, ☎ +62 363 41127 (info@aquariabali.com). A small beachside restauianrt specialising in light, healthy food.
Kedai, Jl Raya Candidasa, (+62 363 42020). A chic restaurant and an offshoot of Ary's Warung in Ubud. Excellent food but you do pay up for it.
Kubu Bali, Jl Raya Candidasa, ☎ +62 363 41532 (info@kububali.com). 8AM to 10PM. Large beachfront restaurant specialising in seafood. Located at the Kubu Bali Hotel. Guest can use the swimming pool.
Legong Restaurant, Jl Raya Candidasa, ☎ +62 363 41052. Good quality local food and a nightly Legong dance peformance to accompany dinner.
Lotus Sea View, ☎ +62 363 41257 (lotusseaview@lotus-restaurants.com). Part of a well known chain in Bali. Superb waterfront location just to the west of Candidasa proper. Local Balinese specialities and western staples at mid-range prices.
Raja's, ☎ +62 363 42034. Right by the lagoon and is a very popular tourist restaurant for the nightly movies as much as the food.
TJ's, ☎ +62 363 41540. In the centre of Candidasa at The Watergarden. Has been around for many years and serves decent Mexican and local food.
Vincent's Bali, Jl Raya Candidasa (close to the lagoon, next to Raja's), ☎ +62 363 41368. Pleasant restaurant and bar serving international and local cuisine. Good vegetarian options. Expect to hear lots of laid back jazz music.

Find Drink

Virtually all of the local cafes double as bars but this is not an area in which expect any nightlife to speak of.

Legenda is in the centre of town close to the lotus lagoon and is the only venue in Candidasa that has regular live music.

Chek in

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under Rp 250,000
Mid-range Rp 250,000-1,000,000
Splurge Over Rp 1,000,000


Candidasa is an area of Bali with a range of accommodation from the most simple of bungalows to world renowned five star resorts.

Budget
Fajar Candidasa Hotel, ☎ +62 363 41538, 41539. Simple and pleasant bungalows in an excellent waterfront location. from US$ 25.
Puri Oka Beach Bungalows, Jl Puri Bagus, ☎ +62 363 41092 (info@purioka.com). Extremely good value hotel in a great location right on the beach close to the Puri Bagus Resort. Should note that the cheapest rooms are not air-conditioned and have no hot water. However, this is a really good value option for the budget traveller. From US$ 15.
Sindhu Brata Inn, ☎ +62 0363 41825. Fantastic location right on the beach, just to the east of the lotus lagoon. Airconditioned and fan-cooled bungalows wih a simple resaurant attached

Mid-range
Alam Asmara Dive & Resort (formerly called Pandawa), Jalan Raya Candidasa, Karangasem, ☎ +62 361 8528521. .Beachfront dive resort. US$ 70.
Bali Santi Bungalows, ☎ +62 363 41611. Individual waterfront bungalows. A charming established hotel with a decent oceanfront restaurant. from US$ 60.
Balina Beach Bungalows, Balina Beach, Mangis, ☎ +62 363 42164 (balinaresort@yahoo.com). This was a run down property but has a new lease of life with new management and a sparkling renovation. Individual bungalows and restaurant very close to the beach with a bar right on the beach. Lovely quiet spot and a good choice in this price bracket. From €46.
Dewa Bharata, ☎ +62 361 977086 (office in Ubud) (info@dewabharatahotels.com). Double storey buildings with the cheaper rooms downstairs. Nice pool and decent restaurant, direct beach frontage. Good location on the beach just to the east of the lotus lagoon. From US$ 65.
Lotus Bungalows, ☎ +62 363 41104. Small resort aimed especially at divers with an in-house dive operation called Gangga Divers. On the main coast road in Candidasa.
Nirwana Resort and Spa, ☎ +62 363 41136. Charming small resort with 18 bungalows and an in-house spa. from US$ 80.
Puri Bagus,. A 3 star resort hotel on the eastern side of Candidasa. from US$ 75.
Rama Candidasa, Jl Raya Sengkidu,, ☎ +62 363 41974 (rservation@ramacandidasahotel.com). Good mid-market beachfront resort. All rooms have private balconies and the hotel has a large pool, in-house spa and notably good restaurant which attracts plenty of outside patrons From US$ 55. edit

Splurge
Alila Hotel ((formerly The Serai)), Manggis, ☎ +62 363 41 011. Five star resort property with 55 rooms on the waterfront at Manggis. Superb ambience and a great restaurant.
Amankila, ☎ +62 363 41333. A super luxury resort in the village of Manggis, just west of Candidasa proper. from US$ 750.
The Watergarden, ☎ +62 363 41540,. Individual bungalows set in lush tropical water gardens. from US$ 125.

Get out

Amed is approximately 30 minutes further east from Candidasa and many visitors combine these two destinations for their visit to east Bali.
The ferry to Lombok leaves from Padang Bai which is about 15 minutes west from here.