BUKIT PENINSULA

Uluwatu Temple (Pura Uluwatu) is one of Bali's nine key directional temples
Balangan. Rated by some as the single best beach in Bali and one which receives relatively few visitors.
Dreamland. Formerly a very beautiful beach which has been ruined by the adjacent Pecatu Graha Indah "New Kuta" development.
Padang-Padang. A truly lovely beach with a big surf break offshore.

The Bukit Peninsula is southernmost point of Bali, Indonesia.
This is a large limestone peninsula which, bar a slither of land just south of the airport, would be a separate island. It is rugged and dry and pre-tourist development this was a real backwater of Bali.

The Bukit (as it is commonly referred to) includes the famous cliff-hanging temple at Uluwatu, a number of Bali's very best beaches and the top surfing spots on the island. As is so often the case, it was intrepid surfers who really opened up the eyes of the world to this part of the island.

The two main towns with strong local communities on the Bukit are Pecatu and Ungasan.

This article covers the whole of the Bukit Peninsula south of Jimbaran and west of Nusa Dua.

How to get in

The Bukit Peninsula is connected to Kuta through Jimbaran by the busy Jalan Bypass Nusa Dua and this is the only route in. Take this main road south to the junction with Jalan Uluwatu II (the famous McDonald's junction) and turn west towards Uluwatu.

A taxi from Kuta to Uluwatu for example takes 30 to 40 minutes on winding roads and will cost about Rp 120,000 one-way. If you are just visiting for the day, consider asking the driver to wait trip as it can be difficult to find transport back. Figure on paying the taxi driver Rp 20,000/hour to wait. Joining a tour can be a cheaper way of getting to Uluwatu.


How to go around

Exploring the Bukit lends itself very well to a rented motorbike. A number of the nicer beaches are reached via small roads or dirt tracks and a motorbike is the best method.

Taxis are not plentiful but can be found. There is a taxi stand at Padang-Padang just north of the bridge and one or two taxis are often sitting there waiting for customers.

A few bemos ply the main routes only but they are neither regular nor reliable.

What you can see

Uluwatu Temple

Uluwatu Temple (Pura Uluwatu) is one of Bali's nine key directional temples. Though a small temple was claimed to have existed beforehand, the structure was significantly expanded by a Javanese sage, Empu Kuturan in the 11th Century. Another sage from East Java, Dang Hyang Nirartha is credited for constructing the padmasana shrines and is claimed to have attained Moksha here. Even more remarkable than the temple itself is its location, perched on a steep cliff 70 metres above the roaring Indian ocean waves. There are more steep headlands on either side and sunsets over Uluwatu are a sight to behold.
Entrance fee is Rp 3,000. As usual, you need to be properly dressed to enter and sarongs and sashes can be rented at the entrance. Guides, once famously mercenary, hassle visitors less than they used to, although they will offer to "protect" you from the monkeys, for a tip of course. Note that while you are free to walk around the temple grounds, the central courts can only be entered during special rituals.
The temple is inhabited by large number of monkeys, who are extremely adept at snatching visitors' belonging, including bags, cameras and eyeglasses. Keep a very close grip on all your belongings and stow away your eyeglasses if at all possible. If you do have something taken, the monkeys can usually be induced to exchange it for some fruit. Needless to say, rewarding the monkeys like this only encourages them to steal more. Locals and even the temple priests will be happy to do the job for you, naturally in exchange for a tip (Rp 10,000 - 50,000).
There is also a very scenic Uluwatu cave with rock formations leading into a beach close to the temple. This is a popular spot for surfers.

There are number of good white sand beaches on the Bukit Peninsula which many consider the best in Bali:
Balangan. Rated by some as the single best beach in Bali and one which receives relatively few visitors. It takes a bit of finding but from the main junction at Ungasan heading out from Jimbaran towards Uluwatu turn right (west) by Nirmala Supermarket. The road then twists and turns for about 6 km until you reach the beach. Keep following informal signs to "Balangan" or "Balangan Surf" and a west-northwest bearing. This is a stunning beach and well worth the effort required in finding it. There are a few very laid-back warungs on the beach and even a couple of bungalows where you can stay the night.
Bingin. Another white sand beach north of Padang-Padang and south of Dreamland. The beach here is not eay to access as the cliffs are high but the ocean views alone make the visit worthwhile. From the village of Pecatu head towards Padang-Padang and look for informal signs on your right directing you to "Bingin Surf". Proceed down the maze of small roads here until you reach the obvious parking areas at the clifftop. There are two sets of steps down the cliff to the beach which are known as the northerly and southerly steps.
Dreamland. Formerly a very beautiful beach which has been ruined by the adjacent Pecatu Graha Indah "New Kuta" development. Still has excellent surfing conditions, especially for intermediate surfers & on days when other breaks are too big to surf. Right & left reef break, not too shallow and with decent shape. The entrance road to Pecatu Graha Indah is about 2 km southwest of Ungasan on Jl Uluwatu and is impossible to miss adorned as it by huge statues and truly massive billboards. The entrance fee to use the road down to the waterfront is currently Rp 10,000.
Padang-Padang. A truly lovely beach with a big surf break offshore. Accessed from a stepped pathway on the north side of the obvious bridge 3 kilometres north of Uluwatu Temple heading back towards Pecatu. The white sand beach here is a little bit narrow at the highest of tides but is otherwise very nice indeed.

What you can do

Uluwatu is a very well known destination among surfing enthusiasts. Most of the surf spots are only suitable for advanced or expert surfers though - the waves are big here. The main surfing spots are Uluwatu, Dreamland, Padang-Padang, Bingin/Impossibles and Suluban.
Kecak Dance (monkey dance) performances are held at the temple daily between 6 PM and 7 PM. Tickets for the visually spectacular if rather unoriginal show (it was invented in the 1930s) performed for tourists cost Rp 50,000.
Chosing to get married or renewing vows in Bali is an increasingly popular event and the Bukit Peninsula is the most popular destination for such ceremonies. There is a stunning, modernist, purpose-built cliff-front wedding chapel close to Nyang Nyang Beach and the Bulgari Hotel an a number of resorts offer specialist wedding packages and planning.
Tirtha Wedding Chapel, Jl Raya Uluwatu, Banjar Dinas Karang Boma, Pecatu (on the southern cliff edge between The Bulgari and Puri Bali at Nyang Nyang), ☎ +62 361 8471151 . This impressive chapel was designed by leading architect Glen Parker and is stuningly located on the cliff top above Nyang Nyang Beach. The architecture is very modern indeed and the chapel is essentially a series of glass-walled triangular pavilions surounded by reflection pools. Full wedding planning services offered.
New Kuta Golf Course, Kawasan Pecatu Indah, Jl Uluwatu, Pecatu, ☎ +62 361 8481333 (info@newkutagolf.com). This golf course is stunningly located on top of the cliffs above Dreamland beach and is a top class venue. It is part of the highly controversial Pecatu Graha Indah development that was the brainchild of former dictator Soeharto's son Tommy. The dubious acquistion methods of the land here by his development company from the traditional landowners is still a huge bone of contention in Bali and that, coupled with the development ruining Dreamland Beach, has resorted in a lot of controversy. Anyone wishing to play at the course may wish to bear all of that in mind when making a decision.

Souvenir

There are the usual souvenir shops at the parking area at the entrance to Uluwatu temple. Otherwise, this is not an area of Bali known for its shopping.
There are convenience stores/small supermarkets in the villages of Pecatu and Ungasan for everyday shopping.

Looking for food

The growing number of five star resorts on the Bukit Peninsula all have top class restaurants (and prices to match) and The Bulgari and Karma Kandara are especially highly rated.
At a more humble level there are a host of simple local roadside cafes catering to the young surfing crowd at Bingin, Padang-Padang and Uluwatu. A lot of these do not have names, let alone contact details and the best advice is to follow the crowds. Expect cold beers and good, simple Indonesian food.
Cafe Moka, Ungasan. Excellent coffee shop and cafe in Ungusan village close to the main Nirmala Supermarket. Bread and pastries are fresh daily and salads are excellent. Free wireless internet for customers.
Jiwa Juice Internet Cafe, 108 Jl Labuan Sait, Pecatu (on main road between Bingin and Padang Padang), ☎ +62 361 8470736. 8AM to 10PM (dry season); 8AM to 8PM (wet season). Jiwa Juice is a full service internet cafe and wireless hotspot. Serves breakfast, sandwiches, salads and smoothies. Also serves as a business centre, has a bulletin board and is a well known local meeting spot. Jiwa means soul in Indonesian.

Drink ?

This is certainly not an area in which to expect any nightlife at all and visitors staying here wanting some bar or club culture make the 45 minute journey up to Kuta or Seminyak.
You will almost always find somebody to join you for a relaxed beer on the beach though as there is a strong surf culture here. The beaches at Padang-Padang, Bingin and Uluwatu are the best bets.

Check in

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget           Under US$ 30
Mid-range     US$ 30 to 150
Splurge         Over US$ 150

As a tourist destination, the whole Bukit Peninsula area was popularised by surfers. There are still numerous small, cheap bungalows close to the main surf points at Uluwatu, Padang-Padang, Bingin and Suluban and many visitors just turn up and find what is available.
The area has more recently sprouted an impressive collection of high-end villas and resorts as well. Beware false advertising though: only the most expensive "villas" are completely private and self-contained, while most share at least some facilities (eg. pool) and the cheapest ones are just clusters of bungalows.

Budget
Chocky's Place, (at the base of the cliff right on the beach at Bingin. Park at the top and walk down the southerly steps), ☎ +62 818 05444833 (info@chockysplace.com). Very good value rooms literally on the beach - the water laps right up to the property at high tide. Popular with surfers as the main Bingin break is right in front. From Rp 90,000.
Flowerbud Bungalows, Balangan Beach, ☎ +62 816 4722310. Eight very charming rustic bamboo bungalows on Balangan Beach, several of which are family-sized. This great little place is representative of a Bali that is fast disappearing. Simple cafe facility and lots of old fashioned Bali charm.
Gong, Jl Pantai Suluban, Uluwatu (on the main road to Uluwatu Temple about 500 metres before the temple gates), ☎ +62 361 769976 (thegongacc@yahoo.com). Bit of an institution with the surfer crowd. Good, clean budget accommodation. You can also rent a motorbike here. Extremely popular. Rp 90,000.
Guna Mandala Inn, Padang Padang, ☎ +62 361 8470673. Budget accommodation just 100 metres from the entrance track to Padang Padang beach. Rooms are on two levels with the upstairs option definitely preferable as it gets nice breezes. Rp 175,000.
Kongsi Inn, Padang-Padang. Just about as basic as accommodation gets in Bali these days. Very much aimed at young surfers and in a great spot for easy access to the Padang-Padang break. Simple huts with bamboo walls and cold water. From Rp 70,000.
Rocky's Bungalows, Jl Pantai Suluban, Uluwatu, ☎ +62 817 346209. A old time favourite with the surf community. A good location close to Uluwatu with nice ocean views out over the Suluban cliff-line. From Rp 175,000.

Mid-range
Balangan Sea View Bungalows, Balangan Beach, ☎ +62 812 3679212 (robbyandrosita@hotmail.com). Right by the stunning beach at Balangan and only 50 metres from the cliff. Popular with surfers. Traditional style bamboo bungalows with swimming pool, internet access, restaurant and airport transfers. From Rp 325,000.
Mick's Place, Bingin (on the Bingin clifftop close to the northerly steps), (booking@micksplace.com). Four beautiful cliffront bungalows with a cliff-hanging infinity edge pool. Styles itself as a yoga retreat, a haven for surfers and a wedding venue. Everything here is very well done indeed. From US$ 60.
Mu, Bingin (on the cliff edge at Bingin close to the car park and the southerly steps), ☎ +62 361 7428249 (jbataillardbali@gmail.com). Four clifftop bungalows with thatched roofs set around a large freeform pool. Wonderful views from the Bingin cliffront here. Popular with surfers and those who just want to be away from it all. From €60.
Puri Bali, Jl Uluwatu, Nyang Nyang (directly above Nyang Nyang Beach. From Uluwatu take the main road heading towards Pecatu and after about 1.5 km look for the sign-posted turning to the south (right)), ☎ +62 361 7448300 (info@puribalivillas.com). Five individual cottages all with large bathrooms and set in huge cliff-front grounds. This place has seen better days and the rooms are in need of renovation. It is a very spectacular location though, set looking due south on the highest cliffs in Bali. The beach is a long way down but it is quite stunning and there is a path leading down the cliff. US$ 150.
Sandat Mas Cottages, Jl Pantai Suluban, Uluwatu (about 1 km north of Uluwatu Temple on the road to The Istana), ☎ +62-361 769965 (info@sandatmas.com). Large range of accommodation here from regular rooms up to a private three bedroom villa with its own pool. Clean, simple and not bad value although the cheaper rooms are not air-conditioned and there is no restaurant. Good ocean views and the cottages directly face sunset.
The Temple Lodge, Bingin (on the Bingin clifftop close to the southerly steps), ☎ +62 813 37769477 (ducabruzzi@hotmail.com). Boutique accommodation at Bingin with 3 creatively designed bungalows built into the cliff face. Truly amazing views over the west coast surf breaks. Aims itself primarily at surfers but this would be a great value choice for any visitor who really wants to experience the best of the Bukit Peninsula. The restaurant prides itself on a health conscious menu and is very suitable for vegetarians. From about €50.

Splurge
Alila Villas Uluwatu, Jl Belimbing Sari Banjar Tembiyak, Pecatu (on the southern ciff edge of the Bukit about 4 km south east of Pecatu), ☎ +62 361 848 2166 (uluwatu@alilahotels.com). There are 84 private villas in this modern and stylish cliff-edge luxury resort. Options of one, two or three bedroom villas, all of which have their own private pool and ocean views. All the facilites you would expect at a substantial five star resort including: 3 restaurants, 50 metre lap pool, spa, fitness centre and wedding facilities. Despite the name, this resort is about 7 km from Uluwatu. From US$.
Blue Point Bay Villas, Jl Labuan Sait, Uluwatu (on the cliffront, just to the north of Uluwatu Temple), ☎ +62-361-769888 (info@bluepointbayvillas.com). Small cliff-edge resort with one and two bedroom villa accommodation. Two pools, one of which is located right on the cliff-edge. Good in-house spa and decent restaurant.
Bulgari Resort, Jl Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin (almost due south from Pecatu, well signposted), ☎ +62-361-8471000. Clifftop superluxury resort every bit as stylish as you'd expect from a boutique hotel run by a fashion label. Plunge pool, private elevator to the beach, excellent restaurants and a price tag to match. From US$1,400.
Karma Kandara Resort, Jl Wijaya Kusuma (on the cliff-front south east of Pecatu, 1 km east of The Alila), ☎ +62 361 708800. Forty six private villas perched upon a clifftop with unobstructed views of the rolling surf of the Indian Ocean below. Each villa features a private walled garden complete with an infinity edge swimming pool. All bedrooms have their own en-suite bathroom. Living rooms are open plan comprising fully equipped kitchens, lounge and dining areas. A private cliff escalator provides access to Nammos Beach Club with its bar and fresh seafood grill. Gay/Lesbian friendly staff and management. Member of Leading Small Hotels of the World.

Private Villas

All the villas listed below are standalone and feature private entrances, accommodation and their own swimming pools.
The Istana, Uluwatu, (+62 361 730668). Five bedroom, clifftop luxury villa just to the north of Uluwatu Temple and directly overlooking the famous surf break. This is one of Bali's true super-villas and it has been featured in many international magazines. Sleeps up to 10 people, two private pools and extensive gardens - fully staffed (private cook, maids, etc). US$1,500 to 2,500.
Suluban Cliff Villa, Jl Pantai Suluban, Suluban (just off Jl Labuan Sait in front of Rocky's Bungalows), (info@sulubancliffbali.com). A very modern four bedroom cliff-front villa above Suluban beach. Extremely well furnished and fitted and has one of the most dramatic cliff-edge pools in Bali, complete with a glass wall. Fully staffed and serviced. From US$ 1,300.

Villa Moonlight, Uluwatu. Private luxury villa featuring four bedrooms and ocean view. Located just a little inland from Uluwatu in an elevated postion with great ocean views. Built in 2008 to a high standard and is nicely fitted and furnished. From US$ 595.
Villa Pemutih, Padang Padang. Four bedroom private cliff-edge villa with a dramatic infinity pool. All bedrooms with large en-suite baths. Big open living room and fully equipped kitch. Fully staffed and serviced with car, driver, maids, chef, security etc. Private steps down the cliff to the beach. from US$ 950.

Contact

Internet
Most of the Bukit Peninsula is now covered by ADSL services and you will find WiFi available at most hotels and many cafes (see eat section).

Get out

This is the most southerly point of Bali. Unless you are inclined to make your way east to Nusa Dua, the only option is to return to town via Jimbaran.

TABANAN

Tabanan is the capital town of the regency of Bali with the same name. Parts of Tabanan regency lie in Central Bali and other parts would be more often regarded as part of West Bali. For the purposes of this guide the Tabanan area will be classified in Central Bali as that is where the key areas of interest to visitors are located.

The coastal areas in the south were previously not popular with visitors due to a lack of infrastructure but these have been lightly developed in recent years and there are now some high profile accommodation options there. Tabanan is though more usually associated by visitors with rolling green landscapes, hills and especially the imposing Mount Batukaru, Bali's second highest peak at 2,276 metres.

The town of Mengwi has a long and rich history associated with its royal family and the best modern day manifestation of this is the splendid temple complex at Taman Ayun.

How to get in

The main coastal road from Denpasar to West Bali passes right through Tabanan and access from the main tourist centres in South Bali is straightforward. Most visitors to the Tabanan area arrive with their own transport. The town is served by buses departing from Ubung bemo terminal in Denpasar. These arrive on the northern outskirts of town at Pesiapan.

How to go around

There are a lot a bemos available in the town of Tabanan and some of these will be useful in getting you to interesting sights in the region. Taxis and private vehicles for hire are thin on the ground here though. Most visitors arrive either with a car and driver, in their own hired vehicle or by motorbike and get around the region in that way.

So who was Ngurah Rai?
You have seen his name. Of course you have. The main road into town from the airport is named after him. But just who was he?
The Balinese effort in the Indonesian fight for independence from the Dutch after World World War II was led by a feisty young officer called Gusti Ngurah Rai. The most famous battle of this campaign resulted in his death along with 96 of his soldiers in a ritual puputan (fight to the death) in the village of Marga.
This heroic act (and every Balinese individual who died in the independence struggle) is commemorated in the Margarana Memorial Park. This very pleasant park is open daily from 8AM and exhibits many statues, houses a graveyard for the war-dead and has a shrine to Ngurah Rai which includes his photograph. Marga is about 15 minutes north from Mengwi and all Balinese drivers will know how to find it. Few tourists make it here but it is worth the effort.

What you can see

The black sand beaches. There are numerous smallroads and unmade tracks that lead from the coast road south of Tabanan to the waterfront. The beaches here are all black sand. The most well known of them and one with some good accomodation options is Yeh Gangga. This is well signposted from the main coast about 2.5 km past Tabanan, heading west. Be warned though that much of this west coast shoreline is unsafe for swimming.
Bali Butterfly Park (Taman Kupu Kupu Bali), Jalan Batukaru, Banjar Sandan lebah, Wanasari vilage, Tabanan (5 km north of Tabanan town centre on the road to Mount Batukaru), ☎ +62 361 814282. 8.00 AM to 4.00 PM daily. A small but well maintained centre for research and education into butterflies with some very spectacular species on show. Who doesn't like butterflies? Best to visit in the early and mid morning when the butterflies are at their most active. Rp 60,000.
Pura Luhur Batukaru (Batukaru Temple), near Wongayagede village. One of Bali's key directional temples and a site of pilgrimage for Hindu Balinese. Majestically situated on the slopes of Mount Batukaru since the 11th century, this is an especially sacred site, even by Balinese standards and all visitors must carefully read and abide by the temple rules posted clearly at the entrance. The temple is high on the slopes of the mountain and the often misty, drizzly micro-climate here just adds to its undoubtedly mystical atmosphere.

Pura Taman Ayun (Mengwi Water Temple), (2 km west of Mengwi on the road to Abiansemal). This very pleasing temple was built in 1634 by the King of Mengwi as his family temple. The terraced courtyards of the temple are set in very well maintained grounds surrounded by man-made waterways and entered over a bridge. Mengwi is about 8 km east from the town of Tabanan. Rp 5,000.
Sangeh Monkey Forest (Bukit Sari), Sangeh (Sangeh village is on the small road that leads from Abiansemal to Petang, just to the north east of Pura Taman Ayun). The macaques here act as guardians of Puri Buki Sari (Bukit Sari Temple). Legend has it that these monkeys are descendents of the army assembled by the monkey king Hanuman and that the forest here is a fragment of Mount Meru that fell to earth. The temple was built in the 17th century. The monkeys here are as bold as elsewhere in Bali so hang on to your belongings. Sangeh combines well with a vist to Pura Taman Ayun. Rp 6,000.

Subak Museum (Mandila Mathika Subak), Sanggulan village (2 km east of Tabanan town centre). This museum is dedicated to the famed subak system of unmechanised irrigation which has been in use in Bali since AD 600. donation.

What you can do

This is a very different experience to Bali's other major climb up Mount Agung. Unlike Agung, Batukaru is a long extinct volcano and it is forested to the peak. There is none of the desolate, barren beauty of Mount Agung. It is though an interesting climb through some areas of dense primary forest and despite its relatively minor elevation (2,276 m) one which should only be undertaken by the physically fit.

Weather conditions are a critical factor in any climb here. Batukaru is a damp place and it rains for much of the year. This is probably the wettest place in Bali. Do not even think about a climb of Batukaru in the wet season (mid-October to late March) or when rain is forecast. The paths become running streams very quickly here. July and August are the best months.

There are 3 main ascent routes all of which converge at the same point at Munduk Nyanggang. The start usually depends on where you are staying: Wongayagede, Sarinbuana or Sanda. The Sanda route is the toughest and longest (6 to 7 hours to the top) and the Sarinbuana route the easiest. From the point of convergence at Munduk Nyanggang, the peak is another 2 to 3 hours of tough climbing depending on your level of fitness and the prevailing weather conditions.

A bonafide guide should always be used and can be arranged through your local hotel or employed directly at Pura Luhur Batukaru. Expect to pay anywhere between Rp 700,000 and 1,000,000 for a good experienced guide for a day return trek. All of the local guides also offer less arduous treks in the local area including the ascent to Munduk Nyanggang only.

Camping is allowed on the mountain although there are some restrictions close to Pura Luhur Batukaru during important ceremonies. For enthusiastic outdoors types, there is ample scope here to camp out on the mountain for one or more nights and really explore the area. Ask a guide for some ideas.

There is no food or water (some stream and spring water is OK but be careful) for sale on the mountain so bring in enough with you. Due to its sacred nature, no beef or beef products are permitted on the mountain.

A drive of the scenic mountain road from Antosari to Pupuan is highly recommended. Take the main coast road west from Tabanan for about 12 km until you reach Antosari. From there turn north (right) off the coast road. The next 30 kilometres is very scenic indeed as you pass through several small villages to reach Sanda and then onwards to Pupuan. Throughout this drive Mount Batukaru rises majestically to the east and areas to the west are largely unpopulated all the way across to West Bali National Park. Lots of excellent photo opportunities along this route. You can continue on past Pupuan to the north coast at Seririt or turn south west to return to the coast road at the village of Pekutatan close to Medewi Beach.

The famous surfing beaches at Balian and Medewi are less than one hour west from Tabanan.

Souvenir

Tabanan itself is a very commercial town and does not have shopping aimed at visitors.

At any of the main tourist attractions you will find the usual souvenir stalls. On the drive from Antosari to Pupuan there are several coffee plantations and processors who offer the chance to purchase freshly roasted beans.

Find food

All hotels and resorts have their own restaurants attached.

In Tabanan town there are numerous decent local restaurants and a night market.

Drink?

Those visitors who especially enjoy mountain views should stop for an afternoon break and perhaps a cup of coffee on the scenic drive from Antosari to Pupuan.

The beach resorts at Yeh Gangga are a great spot to enjoy a sunset cocktail.

Check in

Bali Prana Resort, WongayaGede village, ☎ +62 361 736654. Ten traditional bungalows in a beautiful rural setting on the slopes of Mount Batukaru. Strong sustainability and eco emphasis here. From US$ 55.
Bali Wisata Bungalows, Yeh Gangga beach, ☎ +62 361 7443561 (reservation@baliwisatabungalows.com). Beachfront cottages, some with private kitchens attached. Large seawater swimming pool From Rp 200,000 to 450,000.
Cempaka Belimbing Villas, Br. Suradadi, Belimbing, Pupuan, ☎ +62 361 7451178 (reservation@cempakabelimbing.com). Ten villas in a beautiful area in the shadow of Mount Batukaru. Take environmental considerations very seriously and a winner of the Green Paradise Award. From US$ 70 to 195.
Puri Taman Sari, Dusun Umabian, Desa Peken, Kecamatan Marga (5 km north of Taman Ayun), ☎ +62 361 288096 (beratha@balitamansari.com). This charming traditional style homestay is owned by the Mengwi royal family and gives visitors a real opportunity to experiecne the life stay of an authentic Balinese high caste family. Guests are encouraged to become involved in the daily routines of making offerings, cooking, prayers, dance and music rehearsals etc. The six guest rooms are offered for nightly rental and are very comfortable indeed. From US$ 55.
Sanda Boutique Villas, Sanda Village (on the western slopes of Batukaru reached from the main road from Antosari to Pupuan), ☎ +62 828 3720055 (info@sandavillas.com). A villa resort in the mountains that attempts to create the atmosphere of a colonial plantation house. Grow their own produce and offer a full range of Mount Batukaru-based outdoor activities. From US$ 99.
Sarinbuana Eco-Lodge, Banjar Biahan, ☎ +62 361 7435198 (ecolodgebali@yahoo.com). Four two storey bungalows in a truly spectacular setting on the slopes of Mount Batukaru at Biahan close to Sarinbuana. There is a huge emphasis on sustainability and other eco-matters here. A great base for exploring the untamed natural beauty of this mountainous region. Can arrange trekking and a whole host of local outdoor activites. Owned and run by an award-winning Dutch couple who are genuinely committed to environmental conservation. From Rp 1,000,000.
Waka Gangga, Yeh Gangga beach. Tasteful luxury hotel right on the black sand beach at Yeh Gangga. Individual cottages. Has top notch in-house spa and restaurant. From US$ 230.
Yeh Panas Hot Spring Spa Hotel, Penatahan village (close to Wongayagede), ☎ +62 361 262356 (info@archipelhomes.com). Set in 2 hectares of lush green grounds surrounded by terraced rice paddies. Bathing in the hot springs is a key attraction of staying here. The resort also offers a full range of Mount Batukaru-based activities. From US$ 45.

Get out

The main east-west road in South Bali passes through the Tabanan area and going back to the main tourist centres in South Bali is straightforward. Heading westwards, the quiet surfing village at Medewi Beach is less than one hour from Tabanan while the ferry port at Gilimanuk can be reached in two hours.
The north coast can best be reached via the scenic Antosari-Pupuan-Seririt road.
Another way to reach the north coast is by driving north from Mengwi and taking the eastwards cut across from Wongayagede. You will drive through Jatiluwih and Bedugul from where the north coast at Singaraja is less than a one hour's drive. You can visit the Pura Luhur Batukaru temple near Mount Batukaru and the area around Jataluwih has spectacular rice fields nominated for UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Bedugul has a fruit market, a botanic garden and the picturesque Pura Ulun Danu Bratan temple.
Bemos for all directions depart from Pesiapan on the nothern outskirts of Tabanan town.

SINGARAJA

Singaraja is the largest city in North Bali and the former colonial administrative capital.

Singaraja still has some of the feel of an old colonial capital. The streets are wider and grander than elsewhere in Bali and some of the old houses set in large gardens recall days long gone. Singaraja just looks different to other towns and cities in Bali. This is also a multi ethnic city. The muslim influence is especially apparent in the district near the old docks called Kampung Arab and the largest Chinese temple in Bali is here.

How to get in

It takes 2 to 3 hours to drive to Singaraja from the south of Bali. There are three main routes: east via Kintamani, taking in the stunning active volcano and mountain vistas, west via Pupuan, through beautiful rice-paddies, spice and coffee plantations; and central, via Bedugul with its famous market and botanical gardens. Whichever route you take, the journey is sure to be scenic and interesting.

How to go around

Almost no visitors stay in Singaraja, it is more of a passing through town. Visitors therefore normally explore the city and surrounding areas in the car they arrived in.

What you can see

Gedong Kirtya, Jalan Veteren 20, Singaraja. A library and museum dedicated to the cataloging and preservation of old lontar (paper made from the rontal palm) scripts. Also houses some bronze inscription plates dating from the 10th century. Very much worth a visit.

Gitgit Waterfalls, Gitgit village (10 km south Singaraja on the main road to Bedugul). 8 AM to 5.30 PM. You are on the northen slopes of the central mountain range here and there are 3 spread out waterfalls around the village of Gitgit. When driving south from Singaraja to Bedugul you cannot miss the signs and car parks. The best of the falls is the southernmost which drops about 50 metres. Some opportunities for bathing in the cool and fresh mountain waters. Rp 3,000.
Pura Meduwe Karanguwe Karang, Kubutambahan village (about 10 km east of Singaraja on the coast road). A truly spectacular temple, the most notable in North Bali and the location of the famous original carving of the Dutch cyclist which you see copied all over Bali. donation. edit
Pura Beji, Sangsit village (7 km east of Singaraja on the coast road). A splendid pink sandstone temple with especially dramatic stone carvings.
Air Sanih, Air Sanih Village (about 15 km east of Singaraja on the coast road). A quaint, tiny coastal village with a notable cold spring bathing area set in nice gardens. The spring water here is said to originate from holy Lake Batur. Rp 5,000.

What you can do

Visit local temples, the museum and take in the remaining old colonial grandeur of Singaraja.

Souvenir

Singaraja is a notable production centre of high quality silk and cotton ikat. There are weaving centres on Jalan Dewi Sartika and Jalan Veteren. See the weavers in action and buy direct from the makers.

Find food

Along the front in Jalan Erlangga there are several stilted restaurants with great views out over the water. The most well known of these is Dewi Sitha.

Check in

Due to the proximiy of Lovina virtually no visitors stay in Singaraja. Look for accommodation in or around Lovina and not here.
Sakabindu Hotel, Jl Jend A Yani 104, Banyuasri, Singaraja 81116, ☎ +62 368 21791 (rolly_bagoes@hotmail.com). Simple accommodation in the middle of the city.
Wijaya Hotel, Jl Sudirman 74, Singaraja, ☎ +62 362 21915. Rather uninspiring accommodation but probably the best in the city. Fan-cooled and air con rooms. from Rp 65,000.

Get out

Few visitors stay overnight in this town but pass through on their way west to Lovina, Pemuteran and West Bali National Park, south to Bedugul or east to Amed and Mount Agung.

It is possible to get a bus from Singaraja to Surabaya in East Java. This is an overnight journey that takes about 10 hours and the buses depart from Banyuasri station on Jalan Jendral Sudirman

PEMUTERAN

Pemuteran is a small fishing village on the northern coast of West Bali.
This is a small laid-back village which has become increasingly popular with visitors in recent years. There are a number of waterfront resorts and its proximity to Lovina and West Bali National Park together with the extreme natural beauty of the area, has fuelled quite rapid growth in tourism infrastructure in the area.

Pemuteran is home to the largest artificial Biorock reef project in the world and there is a real spirit of marine conservation effort in this area.

How to get in

Visitors usually arive in Pemuteran on the north coast road from Lovina or Singaraja or from the west at Gilimanuk.
Regular bemos ply the north coast road but they are very slow and get extremely crowded.
You will have no problem renting a car with driver to take you from Lovina to Pemuteran - fix the price in advance and make sure petrol is included.
A direct ride to Pemuteran from tourist centres in the south will take about four hours depending on traffic on the coast roads.

How to go around

This is a great place to walk or get around by bicycle.
Your hotel will be able to help if you decide you need to rent a motorbike.

What you can see

Dolphins. Early morning dolphin boat trips can be arranged through any hotel. By no means guaranteed but you have a decent chance of finding a pod here.
The beaches are nice - a particularly fine grained black sand.
Menjangan Island and West Bali National Park are easily reached from here. The Menjangan Island boats depart from Labuhan Lalang which is a 15 minute ride west from Pemuteran. Obligatory permits can be purchased from the national park office at the back of the Labuhan Lalang car park and you can also arrange a guide here. It is quite common for groups of visitors to congregate in this car park and join together to charter a boat.

Most local hotels will make any arrangements you need for activities related to the national park.
Proyek Penyu (turtle project) is a turtle breeding and release program run by one of the dive operators in co-operation with local villagers. Very much worth a visit and certainly worth your support. See details here:
Vineyards. The area around Pulaki village just east of Pemuteran is the centre of the grape growing industry in Bali.

What can we do

Diving and snorkelling is good both here and at nearby Menjangan Island inside the West Bali National Park.
Reef Seen Aquatics, Pemuteran village, ☎ +62 362 93001. PADI accredited dive operator in Pemuteran. Very active in marine conservation who run their own turtle breeding and release programme for example.
Sea Rovers, (at Hotel Adi Assri, Pemuteran), ☎ +62 812 3859167 (dive@searovers.net). Offer a full range of fun dives and courses. PADI accredited. All dive prices in Euros.
Yos Marine Adventures, Pemuteran village, ☎ +62 813 3877 9941. Long established and reputable PADI accredited dive operator with a branch on Pemuteran beach.

Fishing is good in calm waters and you can charter a boat easily from the beach.
Hiking. The hills and mountains that form the southern backdrop to Pemuteran offer many opportunities for interesting hikes. Ask at your hotel for directions and/or a guide.

Find food

There are several simple roadside warungs serving typical Balinese food.

All of the hotels in the area have restaurants open to the general public.

As might be imagined in a traditional fishing vilage, the seafood options are highly recommended.

Check in

Hotel Adi Assri, Pemuteran, ☎ +62 362 94838 (sales@adiassri.com). Individual bungalows on the beachfront. Offers lots of national park based activities and has a dive centre attached to the hotel. In house spa and restaurant and a good sized swimming pool. From US$ 30.
Jubawa Homestay, Pemuteran village, ☎ +62 362 94745. Excellent budget option in Pemuteran with bungalows from US$ 15. Good wholesome Balinese food served here.
Matahari Beach Resort, Pemuteran village. An impressive luxury beachfront resort with splendid restaurant and in-house spa. from US$ 280.
Rare Angon, Pemuteran village, ☎ +62 362 94747. Budget air-conditioned bungalows with nice outdoor bathrooms.
Taman Sari Bali Cottages, Pemuteran village, ☎ +62 362 93264 (sales@balitamansari.com). Charming traditional Balinese style beachfront complex with accommodation ranging from double rooms at US$ 42 to 2 bedroom suites at US$ 175.

Get out

You can easily continue your journey around Bali eastwards to Lovina or westwards to Gilimanuk.

WEST BALI NATIONAL PARK

West Bali National Park is the only national park on the island of Bali in Indonesia.
West Bali National Park (Taman Nasional Bali Barat in Bahasa Indonesia) is the most north-westerly point of Bali. It includes the whole of the Prapat Agung Peninsula and large swathes of land around the towns of Gilimanuk, Cekik and Banyuwedang. The official area inside the park boundaries is 190 square kilometres with a further 580 square kilometres of protected reserve in the highlands to the east. In total this accounts for some ten percent of Bali's total land area.

Historical background

The park was first officially recognised as an area of importance in 1917 when the council of Bali rulers designated it as a nature park. It was fully established as an Indonesian National Park in 1941.

Geography

The habitat is very varied with rainforest, dry savanna, acacia scrub and lowland forests as well as more montane forests in the higher centre. There are also some pockets of dense mangrove forest.

In the north of the park there is an obvious north jutting peninsula called Prapat Agung. Around this peninsula there are long stretches of protected beach and offshore coral reef as well as a small offshore island called Menjangan. The latter is a very popular diving destination.

There are several long extinct volcanoes in the protected reserve area to the east with Mount Patas (1,412 metres) and Mount Merbuk (1,388 metres) being the highest points. These peaks are dominant visual landscape features from within every area of the park.

Flora and fauna

One hundred and sixty species of bird have been recorded in the park including the near extinct Bali Starling, Bali's only endemic vertebrate species and a key reason why this national park was created in the first place. By 2001, as few as 6 individuals were thought to survive in the wild, all of them in this park. Since then captive breeding and re-introduction efforts have continued apace but poaching pressures are a large problem. With that in mind, a 2nd re-introduction programme was started in remote regions of Nusa Penida in 2004. Keen birdwatchers can find a checklist of likely species and their status here.

Mammals found inside the park include Banteng, a species of wild cattle from which the familiar Bali cows are descended. Java Rusa and Indian Muntjac deer are quite widespread and Menjangan Island is in fact named after these (Menjangan means deer in Bahasa Indonesia). Wild Boar and Leopard Cats are both quite common but seldom encoutered.

A Bali Tiger (a full sub-species of Tiger) was shot here in 1937 and despite rumours to the contrary, that is the last ever confirmed sighting of an animal considered extinct since that moment.

Weather

Not noticeably different from that in the rest of Bali or eastern Java but it may feel a little hotter and drier in the dry season here than in southern parts of Bali.

Bali is always warm, humid and tropical, remaining around 30-35°C (85-95°F) all year round. The April-October dry season and November-March rainy seasons are only relative, with plenty of rainfall around the year, but the Balinese winter is cloudier, more humid and with a higher chance of thunderstorms.
Bali Barat National Park Office, Jl Raya Cekik-Gilimanuk, Jembrana, Bali 82253, ☎ +62 365 61060 (tnbb@telkom.net), fax: +62 365 61479).

How to Get in

Most visitors to the park arrive along the north coast road from Lovina (about 90 minutes) or Pemuteran (about 15 minutes). Others come from the south via Gilimanuk (about 15 minutes)

All visitors should check in at one of the two park offices (PHPA) for information and to purchase permits and arrange guides. The headquarters is at the village of Cekik just south of the Gilimanuk in the west. The other is at Labuan Lalang on the north coast from where boats to Menjangan Island depart. The main ranger station is on the road between the two offices at Sumber Klampok.
The park staff are welcoming, helpful and will arrange guided tours for you.

Fees/Permits

Permits and obligatory guides are available at the park headquarters at Cekik and the office at Labuhan Lalang. The official permit charge is now Rp 25,000 per person. The cost of a guide is a bit of a mystery (no surprise there for regular visitors to Indonesia!) so please use your common sense and do not be tight. A sensible range would be about Rp 450,000 to 630,000 for a full day and about Rp 200,000 for a 2 hour hike.

How to go around

Only a small percentage of the total area of the park is open to visitors and this rule must be respected. There are two key ways to explore the park: hiking the trails or concentrating on marine aspects.

Walking the trails must be done with an official guide from one of the national park offices (most normally the one at Cekik). Boat trips to Menjangan and around Gilimanuk Bay can be organised in advance (ask at your hotel) or by charter on the day you arrive.

What you can see

The official park trails should be explored with a guide recommended by the national park ofice. This is actually a rule but it is sometimes 'quietly' ignored. Please do not do this nor encourage the practice despite the very irresponsible advice given in some printed travel guides to do so. If you are unwilling to pay reasonable guide fees, then do not come here.

The Tegal Blunder Trail is most popular with birdwatchers and it is an easier 2 hour walk. The ranger checkpoint is at the village of Slumber Klampok about 20 minutes west of Cekik. From the same checkpoint you can take the more strenuous Gunung Klatakan Trail to the south east. Tougher walking for about 5 hours but it takes you through some memorable rainforest. There are other trails and opportunities for interesting hikes but these are the two most popular and the easiest. Ask guides about other opportunities at the time particularly those involving hiking deeper into the Prapat Agung Peninsula.

The uninhabited Menjangan Island is a must-do for any visitor to Bali interested in marine life, snorkelling or diving. Boats leave from the beach at Labuan Lalang at the northern edge of Teluk Terima bay and can chartered on the day. Groups of tourists often club together at Labuan Lalang in the mornings for that very purpose. Any boat charter must be accompanied by a guide and you must purchase a permit (Rp 25,000 per person) from the national park office in the main Labuhan Lalang car park.

Many of Bali's dive operators based in the southern tourist regions offer dive excursions specifically to Menjangan. The snorkelling here is probably the best on Bali with good clear water and calm seas.

There is a notable temple on Menjangan called Puri Gili Kencana which is certainly worth a visit. You can walk around the whole of Menjangan in about 1 hour and 15 minutes. If you take it slower though there is plenty of natural coastal beauty to absorb.

Gilimanuk Bay snakes into the south western tip of the Prapat Agung peninsula and the park office can arrange a guided boat trip for you in a traditional outrigger. The bay is quiet and supports a rich diverstity of marine life. There are some notable areas of mangrove forest fringing the bay.

What can we do

Aside from hiking and birding on the trails, the tropical waters surrounding the park are full with activities, ranging from snorkelling and scuba diving to sailing in a simple traditonal outrigger. The crystal clear waters around Menjangan Island are some of the best for diving, and you can arrange a trip there with local dive operators in Pemuteran (just 10 km to the east) or at almost any dive centre on the island, given sufficient notice. For an easy boat trip, take a boat tour of Gilimanuk Bay with a guide from the national park office.

Souvenir

This region of Bali is not particularly known for its shopping :)

Looking for Food

Aside from the Waka Shorea luxury resort there is nowhere to eat in the national park. Bring food in with you.

If you arrive along the north coast road, there are lots of hawker stalls at Labuhan Lalang. If coming from Gilimanuk there are many restaurants, small shops and hawker stands in the town and around the national park headquarters.

Looking for Drink

There is nowhere inside the national park to purchase any drinks including water. Bring in ample water with you.

Lodging

There is one official high end resort inside the boundaries of the national park on the Prapat Agung peninsula. There is no other accommodation inside the park. Visitors on a lower budget day trip the park from Gilimanuk, Pemuteran or Lovina where there are ranges of accommodation to suit all budgets.

There is popular budget accommodation about 2 km north of the Cekik park headquarters on the road to Gilimanuk called Pondok Wisata Lestari, tel: +62 365 61504.
Waka Shorea, ☎ 62 361 484085 (info@wakaexperience.com). Just 16 rooms at this luxury resort which offers a full range of national park based activities. In-house spa, superb restaurant and everything else you would expect at a 5 star resort. from US$ 185.

Camping

Not permitted inside the national park.

Backcountry

Nothing available inside the national park.

Stay safe

Bring plenty of water with you as you will dehydrate quickly.

Get out

If you are exploring the park via a base in the north west (Pemuteran or Lovina) then you may wish to continue your journey around Bali to the south and west via Gilimanuk. The reverse is of course also the case.

NUSA PENIDA

Nusa Penida is the largest of three islands off the south eastern coast of Bali, the others being Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan.

Totalling some 200 square kilometres Nusa Penida is much larger than the better known Nusa Lembongan. However, tourist infrastructure is very limited here. It is though an island of stunning natural rugged beauty and tourist development plans have been rumoured and mooted to no effect for many years now.

Due to a lack of natural fresh water, little is grown or produced on Nusa Penida and even basic foodstuffs come by boat from Bali. Visitors should therefore expect higher prices than in Bali and not bank on any tourism-related luxury items being available for purchase here. Plan accordingly.

In 2004 the Friends of the National Park Foundation (FNPF)started an introduction program to Nusa Penida of the near-extinct Bali Starling (Leucopsar rothschildi). By the spring of 2009, 58 chicks had successfully hatched in the wild. Although the long term viability of this population remains in grave doubt, this and similar initiatives in the West Bali National Park would seem the last remaining hopes for the Bali Starling avoiding complete extinction in the wild.

How to get in

Most visitors to Nusa Penida come via Nusa Lembongan. It is possible to get to Nusa Penida direct from Sanur, Kusamba or Padang Bai in East Bali but this is difficult, the service is very sketchy and it cannot be recommended for reasons of safety. For details of the options to get to Nusa Lembongan from Bali see here.

Public boats depart daily at 6.00 AM close to the suspension bridge between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan and run to Toyapakeh or Buyuk Harbour in northern Nusa Penida. There are also services from the Jungut Batu area of Nusa Lembongan to Nusa Penida. All of these can be a little 'worrying' at times and are often very crowded.
Charter boats are available, departing from and arriving at the same area as the public boats. If you are staying on Nusa Lembongan, ask at your hotel. If not, go to the shoreline close to the suspension bridge or to the beach at Jungut Batu and ask around amongst the boatmen. Rates certainly vary but expect to pay around Rp 300,000.
Quicksilver run daily cruises from Benoa Harbour in Bali to their monstrous pontoon which floats off the north western shore of Nusa Penida. The trip includes watersport activities centred on the pontoon. Rp 570,000 per person.

How to go around

Renting a motorcycle is the most practical option. Some visitors from Nusa Lembongan arrive with rented pushbikes - make sure you get permission to take the bike off Nusa Lembongan first. You should note that roads in Nusa Penida are rough and in remote areas no more than stone-strewn tracks. Local public transport is in small old buses or on the back of a truck.

What you can see

There are many quiet and secluded white sand beaches along the north coast of Nusa Penida. Other geographical highlights include limestone caves, spectacular high coastal cliffs in the south and east and rugged hill tops in the high centre.

Nusa Penida has several interesting Hindu temples. When visiting be respectful and always heed local advice.
Crystal Bay, (take the only small road which heads west from the main road at Sakti village and keep going until you hit the coast.). A stunning white sand beach at Banjar Penida west of Sakti village on the north western coast facing Nusa Ceningan. Perfect clear waters and excellent snorkelling. Lovely white sand beach and a great place for a picnic. A truly idyllic spot and you are likely to have it to yourself apart for the odd local villager and maybe a diveboat offshore.
FNPF office, Ped village, ☎ +62 361 977978. Office of the Friends of the National Park Foundation in Ped. Learn about the Bali Starling introduction program and other matters of environmental concern on Nusa Penida.
Goa Karang Sari (Karangsari or Karangsari Cave), Sampalan/Suana. Large limestone caves on the east coast about 4 kilometres north of Suana village. Find a local to help guide you and bring a flashlight. Some impressive stalactites and other typical limestone formations. The entrance is a short climb from the road level. Of great religious and cultural significance.
Pura Penetaran Dalem, Ped village (at Ped village on the main north coast road between Toyapakeh and Sampalan.). An extremely important temple to the Hindu Balinese many of whom make an annual pilgrimage to Nusa Penida specifically to pray here to protect against illness, disease and death. This temple is built on a quite grand scale which makes for something of a contrast with the generally rather austere nature of Nusa Penida.
Puncak Mundi (Mundi Hill). The highest point of Nusa Penida at some 521 metres above sea level. Great views from here. This area is also home to an alternative energy facility with wind turbines and a solar panel farm. Puncak Mundi temple perches high on the hill.
Pura Batu Medahu and Pura Batu Kuning. Two interesting and stuningly located temples on the east coast road south of Suana. Instead of taking the main road form Suana heading south west, continue on the coast road towards the tiny village of Semaya. You will come to the two temples (Pura Batu Madan first) after about 1.5 km and before you reach Semaya.
Sebuluh Waterfall. Waterfall which is impressive during the wet season (only). In the central west of the island close to Batu Madeg village.
South Coast Cliffs. The whole southern coast of Nusa Penida has spectacular, high white limestone cliffs which will simply take your breath away. Even by the standards of Nusa Penida, the southern quarter is remote and inaccessible. The roads are difficult and in places distinctly hairy. But once you get there it will all seem worthwhile. Try anywhere along the south coast from Pendem, around Bakung Cape to the coast west of Batu Madeg. Allow plenty of time as the chances are you will get lost at some stage!

What you can do

Nusa Penida is best known as a world class diving destination. There are more than 20 identified dive sites around the iland, the most notable including Crystal Bay, Manta Point, Toyapakeh, Suana Bay and Malibu Point. The rich waters around the three islands support no less than 247 species of coral and 562 species of fish.

Many dive operators based in Bali and neighbouring Nusa Lembongan offer specific dive trips to Nusa Penida. Special attractions include fabulous Mola Mola (Oceanic Sunfish) in season and large Manta Rays year round. Mola Mola are migratory fish and most likely from July to October although sightings are reported all year round. There is diving available here for beginners but most of the dives require a decent level of experience as currents are strong and unpredictable.

MM Diving, Toyapakeh, Nusa Penida, ☎ +62 813 37077590 (monikajeglikova@seznam.cz). An established Czech-run dive center actually located on Nusa Penida.

World Diving, Jungut Batu, Nusa Lembongan, ☎ +62 812 3900686 (info@world-diving.com). Probably the most established PADI accredited dive center on neighbouring Nusa Lembongan. World Diving offers daily dive trips to the key Nusa Penida dive sites.
This is a wild, rugged and largely untamed island which offers plenty to those with an adventurous spirit. Trekking and mountain-biking are rewarding with amazing coastline views. The terrain away from the coast is hilly rising to nearly 550 metres and the vista back to Bali is stunning. Camping is a wise (or only) option for those who really want to explore this wild island away from the populated northern coast.
Absorb the culture. The native people are Hindu as in Bali but the language spoken is an ancient dialect of Balinese no longer heard elsewhere. The architecture and dance is also distinct. There is also a small muslim enclave in the north which will remind visitors of culture in the more rural parts of Lombok.

Find food

There are simple local warungs on Nusa Penida but no western style restaurants to speak of. The main market area in Sampalan is a good place to head to. Fish is recommended.

Find drink

Remember to take plenty of water on board. The climate here is hotter and drier than in Bali and you will dehydrate quickly.

Check in

There are some small, simple homestays and bungalows on Nusa Penida. These are in the north between Toyapakeh and Sampalan. There is nothing even approaching mid-range accommodation though. Visitors to the island often do not book ahead and instead turn up and take their chances.

Visitors wishing to explore the remote, rugged areas of the island in the high centre and south may be able to find informal accomodation with a local family by asking a head of village (Kepala Desa). The only other alternative away from the north coast is camping.
Bungalow PEMDA, Sampalan (opposite the police station), ☎ +62 813 38539435. The government homestay on Nusa Penida with 14 rooms.
Losmen Trang, Toyapakeh, ☎ +62 852 37643649. Simple rooms close to the beach in Toyapakeh
Made's Homestay, Sampalan, ☎ +62 852 37643649. Simple single and double rooms in this friendly family-run homestay. edit
MM Diving Resort, Toyapakeh, ☎ +62 813 37077590 (monikajeglikova@seznam.cz). A Czech diving resort with 8 rooms, a small restaurant and a library. Offer many diving packages. Unclear as to whether you can book the accommodation without taking a diving package.

Contact

International phone operators: 101
International Direct Dialing prefix: 001, 007, or 008.
Directory inquiries
108 from a landline or 0361-108 from a mobile phone.
There are no public internet facilities on Nusa Penida and the nearest are at Jungut Batu on Nusa Lembongan.

Get out

The best advice is to get out from one of the northern points in the same way as you came in. A boat to Nusa Lembongan and then onward to Bali or Lombok is recommended although ferries of a questionable standard direct to Bali are available. There is no onward direct service to Lombok or other points east.

NUSA LEMBONGAN

Nusa Lembongan is a small island off the southeast coast of the main island of Bali.
Nusa Lembongan is approximately 8 square kilometres in size and is one of three neighbouring islands, the others being much larger Nusa Penida and tiny Nusa Ceningan (also covered by this article). The three islands are separated from Bali by the Badung Strait.

Fast becoming one of Bali's most popular attractions, this island paradise is a world away from the hassle and hectic pace of South Bali. There are no hawkers, no traffic, magnificent scenery and this is the perfect place to put your feet up and relax. Main activities include surfing, diving and snorkeling. Some tourists may find the island a little slow after the pace of southern Bali.

The water is some of the clearest you can find and vivid aqua blue in color. Most areas aroudn the island are good for diving and snorkeling with abundant marine life and live coral. Surfing can get a bit crowded but the waves are good. There are several white sand beaches away from the main centres which are virtually never rarely crowded. There is a flourishing and well established seaweed farming industry here and many visitors find it interesting to learn about this.

There are two main beach areas which have traditionally attracted visitors. Jungut Batu in the north is the bigger of the two with a myriad of hotels, restaurants and cheap eateries and has traditionally attracted backpackers, families and surfers. In more recent times, the hillside to the south of Jungut Batu (the Bukit) has been developed and attracted higher level hotels. The views from the Bukit are second to none on Nusa Lembongan. Sunsets are best viewed along the main Jungut Batu beachfront.

Mushroom Bay to the south-west of Jungut Batu is a quaint, attractive and sheltered bay. It is a nice spot after 3PM when the day trippers have gone home and it has a great white sandy beach along with some cozy little restaurants that line the beach. Further south the lesser known beaches either side of the Devil's Tear outcrop are increasingly drawing more visitors.

How to get in

The only realistic way (although you can charter a helicopter) to reach Nusa Lembongan from Bali is by boat. There are several options according to budget and speed. Most of the scheduled services leave from Sanur Beach at the end of Jalan Hangtuah and involve getting your feet wet. The exact departure and arrival point on this beach depends on the tide. Other services run from Benoa Harbour and there are local public boat services to and from Padang Bai and Kusamba in East Bali but these are not recommended.

From Sanur Beach:
Scoot Fast Boat, Tel: +61 361 285522. Leaves from Sanur beach. Scoot operates fast boats which take you to Jungut Batu for US$45 return (Adults). Hotel vehicle transfers are included. The tickets can be bought from the Scoot office next to Dunkin' Donuts in Jalan Hangtuah, Sanur opposite the Sanur Paradise Plaza Beach Hotel, or on the beach near the departure point. It takes 30-40 minutes from Sanur. Leaving Sanur 9.30AM, 1.30PM & 4PM. Leaving Nusa Lembongan 8.30AM, 11.30AM & 3PM.
The Tanis Lembongan Express Tel: +61 361 7432344. Speed boat service to and from Mushroom Bay taking 25-35 minutes from Sanur Beach near Grand Bali Beach Hotel. Return fare US$ 45.00 per person and one way US$ 27.00 per person including hotel pick up. Scheduled departure from Sanur beach at 12.00 noon and 4PM and departure back to Sanur from from Mushroom Bay on Lembongan at 10.30AM and 3PM. Also offers surf safaris and day cruises. Special charters from Padang Bay US$ 90.00 one way.
Perama, a local transfers-only operator for the budget traveler, without same day return, Rp 100,000 one way, and has a network of connecting bus-links from around Bali. Boat departures daily at 10.30AM. The ride across is approximately 90 minutes. The office of Perama Sanur can be found at friendly Warung Pojok in Jalan Hangtuah. Daily Perama buses depart from here to Ubud, Kuta, the airport, Padang Bai (for Lombok) and now also Amed.
Public slow boat, depart daily from Sanur beach at 8AM in front of the Ananda Hotel or near the Grand Inna Bali Beach Hotel (depending on tide). They can be a bit sketchy at times and are usually very crowded. No same day return facility. The ride across is approximately 90 minutes. Price including transfers is Rp 100,000 per person one way. Pick up from hotels in Kuta, Seminyak, and Sanur. Other areas with extra charge.
Public fast boat, tel: +62 361 7432344 Thirty minutes by speed boat from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan. Departs Sanur daily at 12.30, 2.30PM, 4.00PM and departs Nusa Lembongan at 10.30AM, 1PM and 3PM. Price including hotel transfers Rp 240,000 per person each way and excluding transfers Rp 200,000 per person each way. Pick-up from hotels in Kuta, Seminyak and Sanur. Other areas with an extra charge.
Tamarind Jaya Express Tel: +62 361 8572572. Speed boat service to and from Mushroom Bay taking 30-45 minutes from Sanur Beach near Grand Bali Beach Hotel. Return fare US$ 45.00 per person and one way US$ 27.00 per person including hotel pick up. Scheduled departure from Sanur beach at 11.30 AM and 3.30PM and departure back to Sanur from from Mushroom Bay on Lembongan at 10.00AM and 2.00PM. Also offers day cruises. Special charters from Padang Bay US$ 90.00 one way.

From Benoa Harbour:
BlueWater Express, tel: +62 813 38419911. BlueWater Express has a high speed boat service from Bali International Marina at Benoa Harbour direct to Nusa Lembongan. This service continues on to the Gili islands in Lombok, allowing visitors to island hop all the way from Bali to Lombok. Hotel transfers in Bali are included in the fare. The boats are high-powered, large capacity speed boats which cover the distance in less than 30 minutes in normal sea conditions. Departure time is 10AM from Bali to Lembongan, 11AM from Lembongan to Gili, 1.30PM from Gili to Lembongan, then 3.30PM from Lembongan to Bali. More services may be added.
Island Explorer Cruises, Tel: +62 361 728088. Transfer only or day cruise include lunch & activities, super fast boats or leisurely sailing yacht to island. Departs Benoa at 9AM yacht or 10.30AM fast boat. Does pick up from hotels.
Bounty Cruises has a high speed catamaran service for US$ 35 one-way. If you have limited time, an option is to take a one day cruise. On a twin-hull boat under sail you will reach the island within 90 minutes (drinks and snacks are available on board). On the island you can take part in a mangrove forest trip, snorkeling, banana boat ride, glass bottom boat ride and sea-kayaking. A lunch and swimming-pool are also available. The approximate price is US$ 60.

How to go around

This is a nice place to walk with coastal paths linking nearly all the guest houses, hotels and restaurants. Most trips will take you less than two hours. The less developed south-western area of the island has some spectacular coast paths which provide easy walking, great views back to Bali and spectacular sunsets.

Bicycles can be rented at many places and the mainly flat roads are quite well surfaced. Motorbikes are also widely available for rent but may be unnecessary given the short distances involved - the island is only 4 km end to end. You can cross on foot or by bike to the small neighbouring island of Nusa Ceningan via a scenic suspension bridge.

What you can see

Devil's Tear, (follow signs for Sunset Beach from Mushroom Bay). A rocky outcrop between Dream Beach and Sunset Beach on the south western coast. Spectacular crashing waves and water plumes.
Dream Beach. A wonderful hidden white sand beach on the south coast.
Mangrove Forest, (continue north on the only coast road from Jungut Batu until you reach the mangroves). Northern Nusa Lembongan has an extensive forest of mature mangroves which can be explored in a jukung outrigger boat.
Puncak Sari Temple, Lembongan Village. The largest temple on the island. Good views over the straits to Bali. edit
Seaweed Farms. Visit the seaweed farms on the southern side of Lembongan Village. Good views across the estuary to Nusa Ceningan.
Sunset Beach, (adjacent to Devil's Tear). A beautiful beach with white sand and crashing waves.
Sunsets. One thing not to miss on Nusa Lembongan. The Sunset over Bali is quite extraordinary. Can be viewed from any west facing part of the island but Jungut Batu beach is especially popular. A more rural alternative is to go over the bridge to Nusa Ceningan and view the sunset from one of the west-facing high ridges - breathtaking.
Suspension Bridge, (go through Lembongan Village heaidng west sticking on the main road until you hit the estuarine channel. Can't miss the bridge.). Walk or bike the suspension bridge between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan.
Tamarind Beach, (between Playgrounds surf break and Mushroom Bay). Good views back to Bali and of Mount Agung especially.
The Underground House. Visit the Underground House in Lembongan Village
Nusa Ceningan
Nusa Ceningan is the tiny island between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida.
Easily reached via the suspension bridge on foot or by bicycle/motorbike. There is a notable surf break off Nusa Ceningan which attracts some surfers away from the more crowded breaks on Nusa Lembongan. Otherwise the island offers some scenic roads and paths and the westwards views back over Nusa Lembongan to Bali are impressive. Viewing the sunset over Bali from the central Ceningan ridge is very much worth the effort. The estuarine channel between Lembongan and Ceningan is home to many seaweed farms.

Very few visitors choose to stay on Nusa Ceningan but a new bungalow complex opened in 2009 and more accommodation options are in the pipeline.

What you can do

Nusa Lembongan is a well known surf destination with three popular breaks. There is a thriving surf scene in Jungut Batu.

Diving and snorkelling is excellent in the crystal clear waters. A number of reputable dive shops are present on the island and snorkellers can hire gear from their hotel or on the beach.
This is an excellent island for walking and cycling. Scooters can be hired easily but lots of people find they do not need one.
Dive shops
Bali Diving Academy Lembongan, Bungalo No7, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 361 270252. . A PADI 5 Star Dive Resort
Bali Lembongan Scuba, Jungut Batu. A PADI Dive Centre located in Jungut Batu.
Big Fish Diving, Jungut Batu. . Offers daily diving, PADI courses and Manta/Mola specials.
World Diving, Pondok Baruna, Jungut Batu, (info@worlddiving.com). The island's full PADI 5 Star Dive Centre. All courses are offered from Discover Scuba Diver through to Assistant Instructor. This is the only dive school in Lembongan with a purpose built training pool.

Spa facilities
Alam Nusa Spa, Mushroom Bay, ☎ +62 813 38377482 or +62 813 37912008. . Offers Balinese Massage and many kinds of treatments.
Lulur Spa, Batu Karang Resort, ☎ +62 366 24880. . Nusa Lembongan's first complete spa with rooms for facials, massages, pedicure, manicure and hair treatments. Local products are used as well as some imported from Australia. Each room is set with ambient music and air-conditioned. Changing rooms with clean treated hot water and a relaxation room are provided.

Find food

Virtually any place you stay on Nusa Lembongan will have a cafe/restaurant attached to it. These can be of hugely variable quality. There are a few good local warungs to choose from but by-and-large there are just not many independent restaurants on Nusa Lembongan and many visitors just stick to their hotel. Fish is a great option as it is all caught locally.
Ketut Warung. One of the best local warungs on the island, great atmosphere, huge plates, really good Indonesian and Thai food at really cheap prices. The owners, the Ketut Malom family, are really friendly and fantastic hosts so it's also a good way to discover the real Nusa Lembongan! Highly recommended.
Mangrove Restaurant. A splendid restaurant designed with a real Robinson Crusoe ethic located at the eastern end of the only spit of land that runs through the northern mangrove forest. From Jungut Batu, take the beach road north and turn into the mangroves (possible by motorcycle or of course on foot). Just keep going for about 1.5 km and you will find the restaurant. Alternatively, arrive by boat - any boat captain will know the way. Good quality food with local Indonesian and some well-prepared French options. Mid-range prices.
Warung Sunset, Sunset Beach, ☎ +62 812 3621633 (sunsetwarung@yahoo.com). A local beach side restaurant with very nice views. Serving beers, cocktails, mocktails and local foods including grilled jacket fish. Warung Sunset is open for breakfast, lunch and special BBQ on the beach and can also help with free transport (motor bike/pick up and drop, car for more than 5 persons).

Find Drink

Cafe Bali, Mushroom Bay. A great place to have a beer and watch the clear sea and stunning view back to Bali. This is also one of the better restaurants on the island.
Scooby Doo Bar & Restaurant, Jungut Batu. Sports bar and restaurant overlooking the bay. Enjoy a cool beer while watching the sun go down over Bali.

Check in

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under Rp 250,000
Mid-range Rp 250,000-1,000,000
Splurge Over Rp 1,000,000


Budget
Bungalo No7, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 813 37050030 (putuyasa7@hotmail.com). Clean fan-cooled rooms around a lovely garden right on the beach. Rp 70,000 to 150,000.
Jennys Bed & Breakfast, Nusa Ceningan, ☎ +62 812 36277650 (Jenny) (bsr_nuslem@yahoo.com). Newly opened bungalows at the remote south-western tip of Nusa Ceningan. Clean bungalows and a superb breakfast right at the beach. Motorbike rental is available. Friendly US manager and local guidance. Can arrange pick up in Jungut Batu on Nusa Lembongan. Rp 200,000.
Linda's Bungalows, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 812 3600867 (bcwcchoppers@yahoo.com). Rooms are clean with nice views of Shipwrecks surfing break. Cold saltwater showers, deck chairs and seating, fresh linen and towels. Their restaurant is recommended; good burgers, daily specials, big cheap pancakes, American breakfast, etc. The most expensive item on the menu is Rp 25,000. Rp 85,000.
Lembongan Beach Retreat Bungalows, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 878 6131 3468 (sales@lembonganbeachretreat.com). Six renovated bungalow rooms - some with stunning bathrooms. Situated on the Jungut Batu beachfront in front of Shipwrecks surf break. Close to the many waterfront eating houses & nightly entertainment. Clean, freshly painted rooms, new linen, nice bathrooms with vanity and mirror, western toilets and shower. Lovely gardens with coral-edged paths. A quiet & peaceful retreat but only a few meters from the many restaurants, eateries & entertainment along the beachfront. Balinese cooking classes can be arranged & yoga classes are available on request. Special Balinese meals on request. Australian owned & operated. Rp 200,000 to 300,000.
Pondok Baruna Guest House and Restaurant, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 812 3900686 (info@worlddiving.com). All rooms are doubles or twins furnished with classic bamboo furniture and traditional Balinese carvings. The bathrooms, however, are en suite, western style. Baruna's restaurant serves a fantastic selection of home cooked traditional Balinese and Javanese dishes, with daily specials dreamed up by the resident chef. There is a purpose built dive swimming pool in the new garden complex which is available to all guests. Rp 80,000.
Secret Garden Bungalows, (Located behind Baruna & Scooby Doo, beside the black temple. Halfway between Shipwrecks & Playgrounds surf breaks), ☎ +62 813 53136861 (info@bigfishdiving.com), [23]. Budget accommodation in a tropical garden, only 50m from the beach. The 9 fan-cooled rooms are clean and spacious and have semi-outdoor bathrooms. Double/twin rooms Rp 80,000 per night and facilities include book exchange and tourist info, outdoor shower for surfers, sofa area for relaxation. Can arrange diving & snorkeling.

Mid-range
Coconuts Beach Resort, Jungut, ☎ +62 361 728088 (sales@bali-activities.com). A well-established traditional ocean front resort with air-con or fan-cooled villas, en-suite bathrooms, hot water, 2 pools, restaurant, bar, internet, Indovision. All villas have spectacular views of the surf breaks and Mount Agung on Bali. from US$ 36.
Dream Beach Huts, Dream Beach, ☎ +62 813 38737344 (sales@dreambeachlembongan.com). checkin: 14.00; checkout: 12.00. Right on the beach front at Dream Beach (south coast) with ocean views, spectacular sunsets and crashing waves. Facilities: lounge chairs and hammocks on the beach, laundry service, pool table, motorbike rental, cafe, bar and restaurant, mini library, mosquito nets, towels in the room, open air private bathrooms, fan-cooled, balconies, king size beds, Balinese massage and extra pillows. From US$ 55.
Lumbung Bali Huts, Mushroom Bay, ☎ +62 813 37536464. Right on the Mushroom Bay beach-front. Room rate includes breakfast, snorkeling (for stays of more than 3 night) and kayak activities. US$ 60.
Mainski Lembongan Resort, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 361 9237322 or +62 815 58289123 (sales@mainski-lembongan-resort.com). On Jungut Batu Beach in front of Shipwrecks surf break. Fan-cooled and air-conditioned rooms plus luxury suites, villas and a beachfront honeymoon suite. Newly renovated & upgraded resort featuring: swimming pool on the Beach, poolside sun lounges, bar & restaurant, games area (pool table & table tennis) and WiFi internet. Prices per double room/per night: standard fan-cooled US$ 28, deluxe fan US$31, deluxe air-con US$ 37, luxury Suites US$ 74, 3 bedroom villas US$140, honeymoon suite US$150. All including breakfast and tax. Mainski's Sunset Beat restaurant/bar features a traditional indonesian warung/buffet with delicious local food, an international a-la-carte menu & an Aussie style BBQ every night. The beachfront & poolside bar is unique to Lembongan in that it features a games area with pool table/table tennis, music DVD entertainment on the giant screen nightly, great cocktail list & icy cold beers. Mainski is Australian owned and operated.
Nanuk's Bungalow, Tamarind Beach Lembongan, ☎ +62 828 97006977 (nanuks_bungalow@yahoo.com). checkin: 2PM; checkout: Noon. Bungalows between Playgrounds and Mushroom Bay. These bungalows are two storey wooden houses built in an artistic Balinese style. Facilities include swimming pool, bar & restaurant serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, double/twin rooms, bathrooms are attached to each hut, towels in the room, shampoo, bath foam, mosquito net, ceiling fan, balcony, laundry on request, Balinese massage, motorbike and car rental. Special price for low season (October to January) of US$ 35 including continental breakfast Normal price US$ 55.
Playgrounds, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 366 24524 (info@playgroundslembongan.com). Clean double rooms with air-conditioned at Rp 450,000 per night and fan-cooled at Rp 400,000). Family rooms are offered at Rp 500,000 and villas for A$ 200-250 per night. Nice views over the bay.
Tamarind Beach Bungalows, Bar and Restaurant, Tamarind Beach, ☎ +62 361 8572572 (info@balitamarind.com). Balinese style bungalows between Playgrounds surf break and Mushroom Bay. Facilities: children's and adult swimming pool, mini library, BBQ on request, mosquito nets, towels, ceiling fan, shower and bath tub. Bar & restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Special price for low season (October to March) of US$ 40 for a large room and US$ 35 for a standard room. Continental breakfast included.
The Tanis Villas, Mushroom Bay, ☎ +62 361 7432344 (sales@taniisviillas.com). checkin: 14.00; checkout: 12.00. Villas overlooking Mushroom Bay with open air shower and mosquito nets both air conditioned and fan cooled. Other facilities include a massage room, table tennis, TV room with international channels and computer with internet access. BBQ dinners on the beach, and a free daily breakfast. The resort also offers a sunset dinner cruises on a traditional outrigger and a 24 hour free doctor consulting service. From US$ 40.
Villa Atas Nusa Lembongan, (enquiry@nusalembongantravel.com). A fully self-contained single villa which has on the upper level: 2 king bedrooms (or 1 king size and 2 singles) 2 bathrooms and an open living area. Sleeps 4 plus day-bed in the lounge. On the ground level: a fully self contained air-conditioned king bedroom. Overlooks all three main surfbreaks: Playgrounds, Lacerations and Shipwrecks. The ground level unit features indoor/outdoor living at its best with an open lounge that borders the plunge pool and an outdoor dining area that steps down to the garden. Sleeps 2 plus 2 daybeds. Solar hot water system and CD player on both levels.
Ware Ware Surf Bungalows, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 361 8070181. 9 standard rooms and 1 family room. Fan-cooled, new and clean with panoramic views. Nicely furnished with wooden antique beds with mosquito net. Overlooking Sanghiang Bay with its clear sapphire-blue waters.

Splurge
Batu Karang Lembongan Resort and Day Spa, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 366 24880 (info@batukaranglembongan.com). A 5 star boutique resort with complete facilities including Muntig's restaurant, bar, day spa, 25 metre lap pool, 9 x 9 metre swim up pool bar, 9 x 9 metre infinity edge pool, steam room, gymnasium, day lounge, wedding pavilion, conference facility and probably some of the best views on the island. Situated away from the more noisy and crowded Mushroom Bay. All rooms have air-conditioning, internet, safety box, 220 thread cotton sheets, king size double beds, mini bars and turn down service. The outdoor bathrooms and toilets have spectacular views over the surf breaks and across to Mt Agung in Bali. Has its own water and sewage treatment plants so the water you use is clean and your carbon footprint is minimized. Rooms from US$ 232 per night inclusive of all government tax and service charges and American breakfast.
Indiana Kenanga Villas, Jungut Batu, ☎ +62 366 24471 (indianakenangavillas@gmail.com). A French owned and run luxury suite/villa resort in the Jungut Batu area which opened in July 2009. Offers six 1 bedroom suites and two 2 bedroom villas. Rates US$ 120 to 170 for a suite and US$ 320 to 370 for a two bedroom villa.
Nusa Lembongan Resort, Mushroom Bay, ☎ +62 361 725864 (info-nlr@nusalembonganresort.com). This 12 cottage luxury hotel has been around for a while and it has definitely seen better days. The location is superb though right on the west headland of Mushroom Bay. Seven of the cottages have clear, dramatic ocean views as does the bar and restaurant.
Villa Shambala, (sales@villashambala.com). Two bedroom oceanfront private villa with cliff edge swimming pool. One of the very few private villas available for rental on Nusa Lembongan. US$ 120.
Waka Nusa, (info@wakanusa.com). A small resort right on the beach at Mushroom Bay from the luxury boutique hotel group Waka. The resort prides themselves on giving somehing of a Robinson Crusoe type experience with no air-conditioning, TV sets or telephones in the rooms. Well designed breezy individual cottages. From US$ 140.

Contact

Telephone
International phone operators: 101.
International Direct Dialing prefix: 001, 007, or 008.
Directory inquiries
108 from a landline or 0361-108 from a mobile phone.
Internet
There are well signed public internet cafes in the Jungut Batu area. Expect to pay about Rp 30,000 per hour. Service is sometimes very slow.
Some of the better places to stay have wireless internet capability for guests.

Get out

The vast majority of visitors to Nusa Lembongan leave the way they came in, ie. back to Bali.
There are options to continue eastwards to Lombok though. Blue Water Express offers a daily (currently daily but check first) Nusa Lembongan to Gili Islands and Lombok service departing Jungut Batu at 11.00AM for Rp 590,000 one way.

For the adventurous, a side trip to Nusa Penida island is an option.