BUKIT PENINSULA

Uluwatu Temple (Pura Uluwatu) is one of Bali's nine key directional temples
Balangan. Rated by some as the single best beach in Bali and one which receives relatively few visitors.
Dreamland. Formerly a very beautiful beach which has been ruined by the adjacent Pecatu Graha Indah "New Kuta" development.
Padang-Padang. A truly lovely beach with a big surf break offshore.

The Bukit Peninsula is southernmost point of Bali, Indonesia.
This is a large limestone peninsula which, bar a slither of land just south of the airport, would be a separate island. It is rugged and dry and pre-tourist development this was a real backwater of Bali.

The Bukit (as it is commonly referred to) includes the famous cliff-hanging temple at Uluwatu, a number of Bali's very best beaches and the top surfing spots on the island. As is so often the case, it was intrepid surfers who really opened up the eyes of the world to this part of the island.

The two main towns with strong local communities on the Bukit are Pecatu and Ungasan.

This article covers the whole of the Bukit Peninsula south of Jimbaran and west of Nusa Dua.

How to get in

The Bukit Peninsula is connected to Kuta through Jimbaran by the busy Jalan Bypass Nusa Dua and this is the only route in. Take this main road south to the junction with Jalan Uluwatu II (the famous McDonald's junction) and turn west towards Uluwatu.

A taxi from Kuta to Uluwatu for example takes 30 to 40 minutes on winding roads and will cost about Rp 120,000 one-way. If you are just visiting for the day, consider asking the driver to wait trip as it can be difficult to find transport back. Figure on paying the taxi driver Rp 20,000/hour to wait. Joining a tour can be a cheaper way of getting to Uluwatu.


How to go around

Exploring the Bukit lends itself very well to a rented motorbike. A number of the nicer beaches are reached via small roads or dirt tracks and a motorbike is the best method.

Taxis are not plentiful but can be found. There is a taxi stand at Padang-Padang just north of the bridge and one or two taxis are often sitting there waiting for customers.

A few bemos ply the main routes only but they are neither regular nor reliable.

What you can see

Uluwatu Temple

Uluwatu Temple (Pura Uluwatu) is one of Bali's nine key directional temples. Though a small temple was claimed to have existed beforehand, the structure was significantly expanded by a Javanese sage, Empu Kuturan in the 11th Century. Another sage from East Java, Dang Hyang Nirartha is credited for constructing the padmasana shrines and is claimed to have attained Moksha here. Even more remarkable than the temple itself is its location, perched on a steep cliff 70 metres above the roaring Indian ocean waves. There are more steep headlands on either side and sunsets over Uluwatu are a sight to behold.
Entrance fee is Rp 3,000. As usual, you need to be properly dressed to enter and sarongs and sashes can be rented at the entrance. Guides, once famously mercenary, hassle visitors less than they used to, although they will offer to "protect" you from the monkeys, for a tip of course. Note that while you are free to walk around the temple grounds, the central courts can only be entered during special rituals.
The temple is inhabited by large number of monkeys, who are extremely adept at snatching visitors' belonging, including bags, cameras and eyeglasses. Keep a very close grip on all your belongings and stow away your eyeglasses if at all possible. If you do have something taken, the monkeys can usually be induced to exchange it for some fruit. Needless to say, rewarding the monkeys like this only encourages them to steal more. Locals and even the temple priests will be happy to do the job for you, naturally in exchange for a tip (Rp 10,000 - 50,000).
There is also a very scenic Uluwatu cave with rock formations leading into a beach close to the temple. This is a popular spot for surfers.

There are number of good white sand beaches on the Bukit Peninsula which many consider the best in Bali:
Balangan. Rated by some as the single best beach in Bali and one which receives relatively few visitors. It takes a bit of finding but from the main junction at Ungasan heading out from Jimbaran towards Uluwatu turn right (west) by Nirmala Supermarket. The road then twists and turns for about 6 km until you reach the beach. Keep following informal signs to "Balangan" or "Balangan Surf" and a west-northwest bearing. This is a stunning beach and well worth the effort required in finding it. There are a few very laid-back warungs on the beach and even a couple of bungalows where you can stay the night.
Bingin. Another white sand beach north of Padang-Padang and south of Dreamland. The beach here is not eay to access as the cliffs are high but the ocean views alone make the visit worthwhile. From the village of Pecatu head towards Padang-Padang and look for informal signs on your right directing you to "Bingin Surf". Proceed down the maze of small roads here until you reach the obvious parking areas at the clifftop. There are two sets of steps down the cliff to the beach which are known as the northerly and southerly steps.
Dreamland. Formerly a very beautiful beach which has been ruined by the adjacent Pecatu Graha Indah "New Kuta" development. Still has excellent surfing conditions, especially for intermediate surfers & on days when other breaks are too big to surf. Right & left reef break, not too shallow and with decent shape. The entrance road to Pecatu Graha Indah is about 2 km southwest of Ungasan on Jl Uluwatu and is impossible to miss adorned as it by huge statues and truly massive billboards. The entrance fee to use the road down to the waterfront is currently Rp 10,000.
Padang-Padang. A truly lovely beach with a big surf break offshore. Accessed from a stepped pathway on the north side of the obvious bridge 3 kilometres north of Uluwatu Temple heading back towards Pecatu. The white sand beach here is a little bit narrow at the highest of tides but is otherwise very nice indeed.

What you can do

Uluwatu is a very well known destination among surfing enthusiasts. Most of the surf spots are only suitable for advanced or expert surfers though - the waves are big here. The main surfing spots are Uluwatu, Dreamland, Padang-Padang, Bingin/Impossibles and Suluban.
Kecak Dance (monkey dance) performances are held at the temple daily between 6 PM and 7 PM. Tickets for the visually spectacular if rather unoriginal show (it was invented in the 1930s) performed for tourists cost Rp 50,000.
Chosing to get married or renewing vows in Bali is an increasingly popular event and the Bukit Peninsula is the most popular destination for such ceremonies. There is a stunning, modernist, purpose-built cliff-front wedding chapel close to Nyang Nyang Beach and the Bulgari Hotel an a number of resorts offer specialist wedding packages and planning.
Tirtha Wedding Chapel, Jl Raya Uluwatu, Banjar Dinas Karang Boma, Pecatu (on the southern cliff edge between The Bulgari and Puri Bali at Nyang Nyang), ☎ +62 361 8471151 . This impressive chapel was designed by leading architect Glen Parker and is stuningly located on the cliff top above Nyang Nyang Beach. The architecture is very modern indeed and the chapel is essentially a series of glass-walled triangular pavilions surounded by reflection pools. Full wedding planning services offered.
New Kuta Golf Course, Kawasan Pecatu Indah, Jl Uluwatu, Pecatu, ☎ +62 361 8481333 (info@newkutagolf.com). This golf course is stunningly located on top of the cliffs above Dreamland beach and is a top class venue. It is part of the highly controversial Pecatu Graha Indah development that was the brainchild of former dictator Soeharto's son Tommy. The dubious acquistion methods of the land here by his development company from the traditional landowners is still a huge bone of contention in Bali and that, coupled with the development ruining Dreamland Beach, has resorted in a lot of controversy. Anyone wishing to play at the course may wish to bear all of that in mind when making a decision.

Souvenir

There are the usual souvenir shops at the parking area at the entrance to Uluwatu temple. Otherwise, this is not an area of Bali known for its shopping.
There are convenience stores/small supermarkets in the villages of Pecatu and Ungasan for everyday shopping.

Looking for food

The growing number of five star resorts on the Bukit Peninsula all have top class restaurants (and prices to match) and The Bulgari and Karma Kandara are especially highly rated.
At a more humble level there are a host of simple local roadside cafes catering to the young surfing crowd at Bingin, Padang-Padang and Uluwatu. A lot of these do not have names, let alone contact details and the best advice is to follow the crowds. Expect cold beers and good, simple Indonesian food.
Cafe Moka, Ungasan. Excellent coffee shop and cafe in Ungusan village close to the main Nirmala Supermarket. Bread and pastries are fresh daily and salads are excellent. Free wireless internet for customers.
Jiwa Juice Internet Cafe, 108 Jl Labuan Sait, Pecatu (on main road between Bingin and Padang Padang), ☎ +62 361 8470736. 8AM to 10PM (dry season); 8AM to 8PM (wet season). Jiwa Juice is a full service internet cafe and wireless hotspot. Serves breakfast, sandwiches, salads and smoothies. Also serves as a business centre, has a bulletin board and is a well known local meeting spot. Jiwa means soul in Indonesian.

Drink ?

This is certainly not an area in which to expect any nightlife at all and visitors staying here wanting some bar or club culture make the 45 minute journey up to Kuta or Seminyak.
You will almost always find somebody to join you for a relaxed beer on the beach though as there is a strong surf culture here. The beaches at Padang-Padang, Bingin and Uluwatu are the best bets.

Check in

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget           Under US$ 30
Mid-range     US$ 30 to 150
Splurge         Over US$ 150

As a tourist destination, the whole Bukit Peninsula area was popularised by surfers. There are still numerous small, cheap bungalows close to the main surf points at Uluwatu, Padang-Padang, Bingin and Suluban and many visitors just turn up and find what is available.
The area has more recently sprouted an impressive collection of high-end villas and resorts as well. Beware false advertising though: only the most expensive "villas" are completely private and self-contained, while most share at least some facilities (eg. pool) and the cheapest ones are just clusters of bungalows.

Budget
Chocky's Place, (at the base of the cliff right on the beach at Bingin. Park at the top and walk down the southerly steps), ☎ +62 818 05444833 (info@chockysplace.com). Very good value rooms literally on the beach - the water laps right up to the property at high tide. Popular with surfers as the main Bingin break is right in front. From Rp 90,000.
Flowerbud Bungalows, Balangan Beach, ☎ +62 816 4722310. Eight very charming rustic bamboo bungalows on Balangan Beach, several of which are family-sized. This great little place is representative of a Bali that is fast disappearing. Simple cafe facility and lots of old fashioned Bali charm.
Gong, Jl Pantai Suluban, Uluwatu (on the main road to Uluwatu Temple about 500 metres before the temple gates), ☎ +62 361 769976 (thegongacc@yahoo.com). Bit of an institution with the surfer crowd. Good, clean budget accommodation. You can also rent a motorbike here. Extremely popular. Rp 90,000.
Guna Mandala Inn, Padang Padang, ☎ +62 361 8470673. Budget accommodation just 100 metres from the entrance track to Padang Padang beach. Rooms are on two levels with the upstairs option definitely preferable as it gets nice breezes. Rp 175,000.
Kongsi Inn, Padang-Padang. Just about as basic as accommodation gets in Bali these days. Very much aimed at young surfers and in a great spot for easy access to the Padang-Padang break. Simple huts with bamboo walls and cold water. From Rp 70,000.
Rocky's Bungalows, Jl Pantai Suluban, Uluwatu, ☎ +62 817 346209. A old time favourite with the surf community. A good location close to Uluwatu with nice ocean views out over the Suluban cliff-line. From Rp 175,000.

Mid-range
Balangan Sea View Bungalows, Balangan Beach, ☎ +62 812 3679212 (robbyandrosita@hotmail.com). Right by the stunning beach at Balangan and only 50 metres from the cliff. Popular with surfers. Traditional style bamboo bungalows with swimming pool, internet access, restaurant and airport transfers. From Rp 325,000.
Mick's Place, Bingin (on the Bingin clifftop close to the northerly steps), (booking@micksplace.com). Four beautiful cliffront bungalows with a cliff-hanging infinity edge pool. Styles itself as a yoga retreat, a haven for surfers and a wedding venue. Everything here is very well done indeed. From US$ 60.
Mu, Bingin (on the cliff edge at Bingin close to the car park and the southerly steps), ☎ +62 361 7428249 (jbataillardbali@gmail.com). Four clifftop bungalows with thatched roofs set around a large freeform pool. Wonderful views from the Bingin cliffront here. Popular with surfers and those who just want to be away from it all. From €60.
Puri Bali, Jl Uluwatu, Nyang Nyang (directly above Nyang Nyang Beach. From Uluwatu take the main road heading towards Pecatu and after about 1.5 km look for the sign-posted turning to the south (right)), ☎ +62 361 7448300 (info@puribalivillas.com). Five individual cottages all with large bathrooms and set in huge cliff-front grounds. This place has seen better days and the rooms are in need of renovation. It is a very spectacular location though, set looking due south on the highest cliffs in Bali. The beach is a long way down but it is quite stunning and there is a path leading down the cliff. US$ 150.
Sandat Mas Cottages, Jl Pantai Suluban, Uluwatu (about 1 km north of Uluwatu Temple on the road to The Istana), ☎ +62-361 769965 (info@sandatmas.com). Large range of accommodation here from regular rooms up to a private three bedroom villa with its own pool. Clean, simple and not bad value although the cheaper rooms are not air-conditioned and there is no restaurant. Good ocean views and the cottages directly face sunset.
The Temple Lodge, Bingin (on the Bingin clifftop close to the southerly steps), ☎ +62 813 37769477 (ducabruzzi@hotmail.com). Boutique accommodation at Bingin with 3 creatively designed bungalows built into the cliff face. Truly amazing views over the west coast surf breaks. Aims itself primarily at surfers but this would be a great value choice for any visitor who really wants to experience the best of the Bukit Peninsula. The restaurant prides itself on a health conscious menu and is very suitable for vegetarians. From about €50.

Splurge
Alila Villas Uluwatu, Jl Belimbing Sari Banjar Tembiyak, Pecatu (on the southern ciff edge of the Bukit about 4 km south east of Pecatu), ☎ +62 361 848 2166 (uluwatu@alilahotels.com). There are 84 private villas in this modern and stylish cliff-edge luxury resort. Options of one, two or three bedroom villas, all of which have their own private pool and ocean views. All the facilites you would expect at a substantial five star resort including: 3 restaurants, 50 metre lap pool, spa, fitness centre and wedding facilities. Despite the name, this resort is about 7 km from Uluwatu. From US$.
Blue Point Bay Villas, Jl Labuan Sait, Uluwatu (on the cliffront, just to the north of Uluwatu Temple), ☎ +62-361-769888 (info@bluepointbayvillas.com). Small cliff-edge resort with one and two bedroom villa accommodation. Two pools, one of which is located right on the cliff-edge. Good in-house spa and decent restaurant.
Bulgari Resort, Jl Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin (almost due south from Pecatu, well signposted), ☎ +62-361-8471000. Clifftop superluxury resort every bit as stylish as you'd expect from a boutique hotel run by a fashion label. Plunge pool, private elevator to the beach, excellent restaurants and a price tag to match. From US$1,400.
Karma Kandara Resort, Jl Wijaya Kusuma (on the cliff-front south east of Pecatu, 1 km east of The Alila), ☎ +62 361 708800. Forty six private villas perched upon a clifftop with unobstructed views of the rolling surf of the Indian Ocean below. Each villa features a private walled garden complete with an infinity edge swimming pool. All bedrooms have their own en-suite bathroom. Living rooms are open plan comprising fully equipped kitchens, lounge and dining areas. A private cliff escalator provides access to Nammos Beach Club with its bar and fresh seafood grill. Gay/Lesbian friendly staff and management. Member of Leading Small Hotels of the World.

Private Villas

All the villas listed below are standalone and feature private entrances, accommodation and their own swimming pools.
The Istana, Uluwatu, (+62 361 730668). Five bedroom, clifftop luxury villa just to the north of Uluwatu Temple and directly overlooking the famous surf break. This is one of Bali's true super-villas and it has been featured in many international magazines. Sleeps up to 10 people, two private pools and extensive gardens - fully staffed (private cook, maids, etc). US$1,500 to 2,500.
Suluban Cliff Villa, Jl Pantai Suluban, Suluban (just off Jl Labuan Sait in front of Rocky's Bungalows), (info@sulubancliffbali.com). A very modern four bedroom cliff-front villa above Suluban beach. Extremely well furnished and fitted and has one of the most dramatic cliff-edge pools in Bali, complete with a glass wall. Fully staffed and serviced. From US$ 1,300.

Villa Moonlight, Uluwatu. Private luxury villa featuring four bedrooms and ocean view. Located just a little inland from Uluwatu in an elevated postion with great ocean views. Built in 2008 to a high standard and is nicely fitted and furnished. From US$ 595.
Villa Pemutih, Padang Padang. Four bedroom private cliff-edge villa with a dramatic infinity pool. All bedrooms with large en-suite baths. Big open living room and fully equipped kitch. Fully staffed and serviced with car, driver, maids, chef, security etc. Private steps down the cliff to the beach. from US$ 950.

Contact

Internet
Most of the Bukit Peninsula is now covered by ADSL services and you will find WiFi available at most hotels and many cafes (see eat section).

Get out

This is the most southerly point of Bali. Unless you are inclined to make your way east to Nusa Dua, the only option is to return to town via Jimbaran.

TABANAN

Tabanan is the capital town of the regency of Bali with the same name. Parts of Tabanan regency lie in Central Bali and other parts would be more often regarded as part of West Bali. For the purposes of this guide the Tabanan area will be classified in Central Bali as that is where the key areas of interest to visitors are located.

The coastal areas in the south were previously not popular with visitors due to a lack of infrastructure but these have been lightly developed in recent years and there are now some high profile accommodation options there. Tabanan is though more usually associated by visitors with rolling green landscapes, hills and especially the imposing Mount Batukaru, Bali's second highest peak at 2,276 metres.

The town of Mengwi has a long and rich history associated with its royal family and the best modern day manifestation of this is the splendid temple complex at Taman Ayun.

How to get in

The main coastal road from Denpasar to West Bali passes right through Tabanan and access from the main tourist centres in South Bali is straightforward. Most visitors to the Tabanan area arrive with their own transport. The town is served by buses departing from Ubung bemo terminal in Denpasar. These arrive on the northern outskirts of town at Pesiapan.

How to go around

There are a lot a bemos available in the town of Tabanan and some of these will be useful in getting you to interesting sights in the region. Taxis and private vehicles for hire are thin on the ground here though. Most visitors arrive either with a car and driver, in their own hired vehicle or by motorbike and get around the region in that way.

So who was Ngurah Rai?
You have seen his name. Of course you have. The main road into town from the airport is named after him. But just who was he?
The Balinese effort in the Indonesian fight for independence from the Dutch after World World War II was led by a feisty young officer called Gusti Ngurah Rai. The most famous battle of this campaign resulted in his death along with 96 of his soldiers in a ritual puputan (fight to the death) in the village of Marga.
This heroic act (and every Balinese individual who died in the independence struggle) is commemorated in the Margarana Memorial Park. This very pleasant park is open daily from 8AM and exhibits many statues, houses a graveyard for the war-dead and has a shrine to Ngurah Rai which includes his photograph. Marga is about 15 minutes north from Mengwi and all Balinese drivers will know how to find it. Few tourists make it here but it is worth the effort.

What you can see

The black sand beaches. There are numerous smallroads and unmade tracks that lead from the coast road south of Tabanan to the waterfront. The beaches here are all black sand. The most well known of them and one with some good accomodation options is Yeh Gangga. This is well signposted from the main coast about 2.5 km past Tabanan, heading west. Be warned though that much of this west coast shoreline is unsafe for swimming.
Bali Butterfly Park (Taman Kupu Kupu Bali), Jalan Batukaru, Banjar Sandan lebah, Wanasari vilage, Tabanan (5 km north of Tabanan town centre on the road to Mount Batukaru), ☎ +62 361 814282. 8.00 AM to 4.00 PM daily. A small but well maintained centre for research and education into butterflies with some very spectacular species on show. Who doesn't like butterflies? Best to visit in the early and mid morning when the butterflies are at their most active. Rp 60,000.
Pura Luhur Batukaru (Batukaru Temple), near Wongayagede village. One of Bali's key directional temples and a site of pilgrimage for Hindu Balinese. Majestically situated on the slopes of Mount Batukaru since the 11th century, this is an especially sacred site, even by Balinese standards and all visitors must carefully read and abide by the temple rules posted clearly at the entrance. The temple is high on the slopes of the mountain and the often misty, drizzly micro-climate here just adds to its undoubtedly mystical atmosphere.

Pura Taman Ayun (Mengwi Water Temple), (2 km west of Mengwi on the road to Abiansemal). This very pleasing temple was built in 1634 by the King of Mengwi as his family temple. The terraced courtyards of the temple are set in very well maintained grounds surrounded by man-made waterways and entered over a bridge. Mengwi is about 8 km east from the town of Tabanan. Rp 5,000.
Sangeh Monkey Forest (Bukit Sari), Sangeh (Sangeh village is on the small road that leads from Abiansemal to Petang, just to the north east of Pura Taman Ayun). The macaques here act as guardians of Puri Buki Sari (Bukit Sari Temple). Legend has it that these monkeys are descendents of the army assembled by the monkey king Hanuman and that the forest here is a fragment of Mount Meru that fell to earth. The temple was built in the 17th century. The monkeys here are as bold as elsewhere in Bali so hang on to your belongings. Sangeh combines well with a vist to Pura Taman Ayun. Rp 6,000.

Subak Museum (Mandila Mathika Subak), Sanggulan village (2 km east of Tabanan town centre). This museum is dedicated to the famed subak system of unmechanised irrigation which has been in use in Bali since AD 600. donation.

What you can do

This is a very different experience to Bali's other major climb up Mount Agung. Unlike Agung, Batukaru is a long extinct volcano and it is forested to the peak. There is none of the desolate, barren beauty of Mount Agung. It is though an interesting climb through some areas of dense primary forest and despite its relatively minor elevation (2,276 m) one which should only be undertaken by the physically fit.

Weather conditions are a critical factor in any climb here. Batukaru is a damp place and it rains for much of the year. This is probably the wettest place in Bali. Do not even think about a climb of Batukaru in the wet season (mid-October to late March) or when rain is forecast. The paths become running streams very quickly here. July and August are the best months.

There are 3 main ascent routes all of which converge at the same point at Munduk Nyanggang. The start usually depends on where you are staying: Wongayagede, Sarinbuana or Sanda. The Sanda route is the toughest and longest (6 to 7 hours to the top) and the Sarinbuana route the easiest. From the point of convergence at Munduk Nyanggang, the peak is another 2 to 3 hours of tough climbing depending on your level of fitness and the prevailing weather conditions.

A bonafide guide should always be used and can be arranged through your local hotel or employed directly at Pura Luhur Batukaru. Expect to pay anywhere between Rp 700,000 and 1,000,000 for a good experienced guide for a day return trek. All of the local guides also offer less arduous treks in the local area including the ascent to Munduk Nyanggang only.

Camping is allowed on the mountain although there are some restrictions close to Pura Luhur Batukaru during important ceremonies. For enthusiastic outdoors types, there is ample scope here to camp out on the mountain for one or more nights and really explore the area. Ask a guide for some ideas.

There is no food or water (some stream and spring water is OK but be careful) for sale on the mountain so bring in enough with you. Due to its sacred nature, no beef or beef products are permitted on the mountain.

A drive of the scenic mountain road from Antosari to Pupuan is highly recommended. Take the main coast road west from Tabanan for about 12 km until you reach Antosari. From there turn north (right) off the coast road. The next 30 kilometres is very scenic indeed as you pass through several small villages to reach Sanda and then onwards to Pupuan. Throughout this drive Mount Batukaru rises majestically to the east and areas to the west are largely unpopulated all the way across to West Bali National Park. Lots of excellent photo opportunities along this route. You can continue on past Pupuan to the north coast at Seririt or turn south west to return to the coast road at the village of Pekutatan close to Medewi Beach.

The famous surfing beaches at Balian and Medewi are less than one hour west from Tabanan.

Souvenir

Tabanan itself is a very commercial town and does not have shopping aimed at visitors.

At any of the main tourist attractions you will find the usual souvenir stalls. On the drive from Antosari to Pupuan there are several coffee plantations and processors who offer the chance to purchase freshly roasted beans.

Find food

All hotels and resorts have their own restaurants attached.

In Tabanan town there are numerous decent local restaurants and a night market.

Drink?

Those visitors who especially enjoy mountain views should stop for an afternoon break and perhaps a cup of coffee on the scenic drive from Antosari to Pupuan.

The beach resorts at Yeh Gangga are a great spot to enjoy a sunset cocktail.

Check in

Bali Prana Resort, WongayaGede village, ☎ +62 361 736654. Ten traditional bungalows in a beautiful rural setting on the slopes of Mount Batukaru. Strong sustainability and eco emphasis here. From US$ 55.
Bali Wisata Bungalows, Yeh Gangga beach, ☎ +62 361 7443561 (reservation@baliwisatabungalows.com). Beachfront cottages, some with private kitchens attached. Large seawater swimming pool From Rp 200,000 to 450,000.
Cempaka Belimbing Villas, Br. Suradadi, Belimbing, Pupuan, ☎ +62 361 7451178 (reservation@cempakabelimbing.com). Ten villas in a beautiful area in the shadow of Mount Batukaru. Take environmental considerations very seriously and a winner of the Green Paradise Award. From US$ 70 to 195.
Puri Taman Sari, Dusun Umabian, Desa Peken, Kecamatan Marga (5 km north of Taman Ayun), ☎ +62 361 288096 (beratha@balitamansari.com). This charming traditional style homestay is owned by the Mengwi royal family and gives visitors a real opportunity to experiecne the life stay of an authentic Balinese high caste family. Guests are encouraged to become involved in the daily routines of making offerings, cooking, prayers, dance and music rehearsals etc. The six guest rooms are offered for nightly rental and are very comfortable indeed. From US$ 55.
Sanda Boutique Villas, Sanda Village (on the western slopes of Batukaru reached from the main road from Antosari to Pupuan), ☎ +62 828 3720055 (info@sandavillas.com). A villa resort in the mountains that attempts to create the atmosphere of a colonial plantation house. Grow their own produce and offer a full range of Mount Batukaru-based outdoor activities. From US$ 99.
Sarinbuana Eco-Lodge, Banjar Biahan, ☎ +62 361 7435198 (ecolodgebali@yahoo.com). Four two storey bungalows in a truly spectacular setting on the slopes of Mount Batukaru at Biahan close to Sarinbuana. There is a huge emphasis on sustainability and other eco-matters here. A great base for exploring the untamed natural beauty of this mountainous region. Can arrange trekking and a whole host of local outdoor activites. Owned and run by an award-winning Dutch couple who are genuinely committed to environmental conservation. From Rp 1,000,000.
Waka Gangga, Yeh Gangga beach. Tasteful luxury hotel right on the black sand beach at Yeh Gangga. Individual cottages. Has top notch in-house spa and restaurant. From US$ 230.
Yeh Panas Hot Spring Spa Hotel, Penatahan village (close to Wongayagede), ☎ +62 361 262356 (info@archipelhomes.com). Set in 2 hectares of lush green grounds surrounded by terraced rice paddies. Bathing in the hot springs is a key attraction of staying here. The resort also offers a full range of Mount Batukaru-based activities. From US$ 45.

Get out

The main east-west road in South Bali passes through the Tabanan area and going back to the main tourist centres in South Bali is straightforward. Heading westwards, the quiet surfing village at Medewi Beach is less than one hour from Tabanan while the ferry port at Gilimanuk can be reached in two hours.
The north coast can best be reached via the scenic Antosari-Pupuan-Seririt road.
Another way to reach the north coast is by driving north from Mengwi and taking the eastwards cut across from Wongayagede. You will drive through Jatiluwih and Bedugul from where the north coast at Singaraja is less than a one hour's drive. You can visit the Pura Luhur Batukaru temple near Mount Batukaru and the area around Jataluwih has spectacular rice fields nominated for UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Bedugul has a fruit market, a botanic garden and the picturesque Pura Ulun Danu Bratan temple.
Bemos for all directions depart from Pesiapan on the nothern outskirts of Tabanan town.

AMED

Amed is a long coastal strip of fishing villages in East Bali.
Amed refers to a long stretch of coast running from the village of Cucik about 14 km eastwards incorporating the seven villages of Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Selang, Banyuning and Aas. The pace of life here is slow and the coastal scenery quite stunning making Amed the perfect place for a relaxed holiday in Bali.

Amed is the most recent tourist development area in Bali. It was only in 2000 that tarmac was laid on the roads. Telephone lines were installed in 2003 and it took until 2007 for a bridge to be built over a section of the main road that regularly washed away during the rainy season.

This is the most commonly used base for visitors wishing to dive the USS Liberty wreck at Tulamben and that area is also covered by this article. There are other good divesites close at hand and a thriving dive industry has developed all the way along the coast here.

The lack of tourism-based revenue, its remote nature and the generally harsh environment for farming, meant that this area was very much one of the poorer areas in Bali. Amongst others, The East Bali Poverty Project drew attention to the plight of the local villagers in this area and that, together with recent tourist development, has gone a long way to improving general standards of living, health and education.

How to get in

Amed is accessed by turning east at the village of Culik which lies on the main east coast road from Karangasem to Singaraja.

Shuttle buses regularly serve the destination from Candidasa and Lovina and now that the road has been greatly improved, they take you all the way into Amed (previously all buses stopped at Culik and motorbikes ferried visitors into Amed).

The easiest way into Amed though is still to hire your own transport with a driver. Be aware that the Amed district is stretched out over more than ten kilometres.

How to go around

There are public bemos that pass through Amed several times a day, but the easiest way to get around is to hire a car and driver. Motorcycles are widely available for rent and should expect to pay between Rp 50,000 and 80,000 per day.

What you can see

Amed is famous for its black sand beaches, lined with traditional outigger fishing boats. The prettiest bays are probably those at Jemeluk and Lipah but the whole stetch of coastline is very attractive.

Salt production is a declining but still important industry in this area. As you drive along the main coast road through the villages you will see large open drying pans crusted with salt crystals. Those little boxes of gourmet Bali salt crystals you see in delis all over the world probably started their long journey from these very pans.

There is vibrant marine life close offshore in clear seas.
Shell Museum, (at the Aiona Garden of Health). An odd little place and a very charming one to boot. Exactly as it says, shells. Rp 20,000.

What you can Do

Most people come to Amed as a getaway, including expats from other parts of the island. It is a favourite honeymoon destination for tourists and is very popular with divers and snorkelers. Day trips to local places of interest such as the water palace at Tirta Gangga and Bali's most sacred temple, Besakih, can easily be arranged.

The black sand and fishing boats of Amed
Traditional outrigger boats are available for fishing charters from the main beaches in the Amed area. This normally involves early morning trolling for mackeral.
Have a traditional massage on the beach. Women from the local villages are always on hand for an invigorating massage, especiallly so at Lipah Beach.

Enjoy nature and go with the wind on a traditional sailing boat for diving, fishing, exploration, dolphin watching, snorkeling or just swimming and relaxing. Condor Sailing, tel: +62 363 23462.

Amed has some good snorkeling within metres of the shore. A reef follows the majority of the coastline and is quite close in. Due to the limited number of visitors to the area, the sea life is healthy and abundant. There is a small World War II Japanese wreck in quite shallow water off Lipah Beach.

Interested diving

There is some fine diving in Jemeluk Bay both from the beach and from boats in deeper water. After a gentle slope out from shore, the wall here drops off dramatically to depths of 40 metres plus. The coral is healthy and fish life abundant. There are some good drift dives further east at Selang and Bunutan but these are generally only suited to more experienced divers.

Beware of diving after a heavy rain, the water from the run-off can greatly reduce your visibility.

As well as local dives off the various Amed beaches, a notable attraction is diving the wreck of the USS Liberty at Tulamben about 20 to 30 minutes drive north from Amed. Some divers base themselves at Tulamben itself where all of the hotels have either in-house dive operations or are allied to one or other of them.

The Liberty wreck lies about 30 metres offshore and is absolutely covered in soft corals. A huge range of reef fish have made this their home and occasional pelagics visit as well. Some of the wreck can even be seen by snorkelers. There are other dives in the Tulamben area and keen divers will have no problem entertaining themselves for a few days in this area. One word of warning - The Liberty is a very popular dive and unless you are actually staying at Amed or Tulamben and get there early in the day, it can be very crowded indeed.

Adventure Divers, Jl Jemeluk, Amed, ☎ +62 813 53136113. PADI and SSI dive shop ofering a full range of courses. Instructed by an Englishman who moved to Amed with his Dutch wife. Together they run the diving school and Geria Giri Shanti Bungalows. Great couple that make you feel at home.
Amed Dive Center, Hotel Uyah, Amed, ☎ ++62 363 23462 (info@ameddivecenter.com). Offer a full range of PADI courses, fun dives, diving and sailing trips. English, French and German speaking.
Amed Scuba, Bunutan, ☎ +62 818 05537926 (halloscuba@yahoo.com). Offers diving tours around Bali as well as local Amed-based dive-safaris. Instruct all PADI courses from Open Water to Divemaster.
Eco Dive, Jemeluk, ☎ +62 363 23482 (info@ecodivebali.com)]. Long-established PADI teaching centre. Also offer daily fun dives in the area and at the USAT Liberty wreck.
Euro Dive, Lipah, ☎ +62 363 23605 (eurodive@telkom.net). PADI dive centre established in 1999. English, French and Hungarian speaking. Allied with Coral View cottages.

Souvenir

There are a few shops in Amed selling basic necessities (shampoo, bottled water, etc) as well as sarongs and tee-shirts, but it does not have the range of handicrafts and clothing shops that you find in other more developed tourist areas of Bali.

Find food

Amed Cafe, Amed, ☎ 62 363 23473 ,. Reasonably priced and well located cafe which is attached to the bungalows of the same name. Serves local and international food. Public internet access here.
Barong Cafe and Restaurant, ☎ +62 81 80 55 85 010 (sawyerkomang@gmail.com). Balinese, Indonesian and International cuisine. Provides free pick up and drop-off around Amed area.
Dancing Dragon Restaurant(info@dancingdragoncottages.com) (Bunutan), Dancing Dragon Cottages, ☎ +62 363 23521 . 7AM-10PM. The restaurant serves up local organic produce and quality ingredients. International and Balinese cuisine. Also buffet catering for group events. Note: this establishment was one of the better restaurants and hotels in Amed but it closed its doors in July 2009 due to a business dispute and is currently for sale. From Rp.113,000.
Garam Cafe, Amed, ☎ +62 363 23462 (sawyerkomang@gmail.com). Offers international and Balinese cuisine. Café Garam, (which means Salt Café) was built behind the salt production fields and uses salt production as its motto. The aim is to preserve the traditional salt production by promoting it as point of interest for foreign tourists and explain the production process.
Sails, Lipah, ☎ +62 363 22006. Very good restaurant in great headland setting. Modern and clean with an extensive well thought out menu. Offer a free pick up and drop off service anywhere in the Amed area. Recommended.

Find Drink

For an evening drink and entertainment, a local band performs live at the Double One Restaurant once a week and there are sometimes free Balinese dance performances in some of the restaurants. A local Gong & Genjek group performs about once a month in the Bali Mandala room at Dancing Dragon Cottages.
Generally Amed is quiet at night and it is certainly not a late night drinking spot.

Check in

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under US$ 25
Mid-range US$ 25 to 100
Splurge Over US$ 100

There is a wide selection of hotels in the area and more are appearing all the time. Most tend to be quite small and intimate and built by westerners in partnership with local Balinese. These have brought a welcome increase in employment and prosperity to the area.

Everyone knows everyone here so there is a real feeling of village community. The hotels are well spaced out though so you feel that you have your own private space. There are few TVs in the hotel rooms, so bring a good book to read or better still, spend your time getting to know the locals. The pace of life is very slow and relaxed in Amed, the people are friendly and they have time!

There are also several hotels at the village of Tulamben to the north of Amed which are intended specifically for visitors intending to dive the wreck of the USS Liberty. These establishments are normally affiliated with a dive operator or run their own operation.

Budget
Eka Purnama Cottages and Restaurant, Aas, ☎ +62 828 372 264 (ekaamed@gmail.com). A family run, budget hotel. All the comfortable cottages overlook the sea and are a short step away from the beach. The reasonably priced cottages are comfortable with a double bed and single bed, a ceiling fan, wardrobes and a spacious bathroom with shower and a western toilet. Located at the eastern edge of the Amed area at Aas - it is very quiet and remote here.
Geria Giri Shanti Bungalows, Jemeluk, ☎ +62 819 16654874 (petracoe@hotmail.com). Very pleasant and clean rooms, lush garden property and centrally located. Discount offered if you're also taking diving lessons from Adventure Divers. From €12.
Lily Amed Beach Bungalows, Amed (within the first 3 km strip at Amed), ☎ +62 819 16141668. checkin: after 12.00 noon; checkout: 11.00 AM. Newly opened 4 room hotel with a large garden. Good views of the ocean and Mount Agung. Lots of fruit trees in the gardens an the produce is served for breakfast as and when avaialble. From US$18 - 40.
Sunrise Bungalows and Cafe, ☎ +62 363 23477 (sunrisejem@yahoo.com). This place has several rooms and friendly English speaking staff. Good snorkeling area with great corals in waters right behind the hotel. Snorkeling equipment can be rented for Rp 25,000 per day From Rp 100,000.

Mid-Range
(sunrisejem@yahoo.com), Bunutan, ☎ +62 363 23498. Nicely designed and furnished bungalows built into a hilside overlooking the beach and ocean in the Lipah village part of Amed. Decent restaurant, gift shop and small in-house library. From € 55.
Apa Kabar Villas,. A small and quiet collection of ocean front bungalows (sleep four) and Balinese villas (sleep six) surrounded by lush gardens. They also have a lovely restaurant, swimming pool, and some nice coral for snorkeling right off of their beach.
Bayu CottagesBayu Cottages, Lipah Beach, ☎ +62 363 23495 (welcome@bayucottages.com). Bayu Cottages is a charming collection of six beautiful ocean- view rooms, on a hillside and overlooking the blue ocean, managed by a mixed Indonesian-Dutch couple. With just six rooms to serve they serve personal services, made to your every comfort. It is like being home, thousands miles away.
Blue Moon villas, Selang, ☎ +62 363 21428 (info@bluemoonvilla.com). Great location on a headland just east of Selang beach. A variety of accommodation offered from double rooms with private balconies up to a private four bedroom family villa. All the options are good value for the high standards provided. Decent spa and very good restaurant. From US$ 60.
Coral View, Lipah Beach, ☎ +62 363 23493. One of the older Amed hotels and the cottages are a bit tired. Service is good though and the location excellent, right on the Lipah beachfront. All of the cottages have private terraces, hot water and air-con. Small communal pool. edit
Hotel Uyah, Amed (the first hotel you reach on the approach from Culik), ☎ +62 363 23462 (hoteluyah@naturebali.com),. Eight bungalows around a pool. Take environmental considrations seriously and all hot water is solar heated. Has a simple in-house spa facility and nice enough restaurant and bar. Bicycles for hire. From €29.
Life in Amed Beach Cottages, Selang/Lean, ☎ +62 363 23152,. Six charming cottages set around a large pool. Well equipped and decorated with lovely natural stone bathrooms. In a quiet spot. The cottages hre really are very nice but perhaps a little over-priced when compared to other available options in the area. From US$ 75.
Santai, Bunutan, ☎ +62 363 23487 (info@santaibali.com). Six bungalows here, all with Sulawesi-style architecture. Three of them have ocean views whereas the others are inward facing around a large swimming pool. The rooms are nice enough with decent furnishings, open air bathrooms, hot water and air-con. From US$ 50.
Tauch Terminal Tulamben, Tulamben. Dive Resort close to the wreck of the USS Liberty. Run by the German dive operator of the same name and offer many different diving packages
Tulamben Wreck Divers Resort, Tulamben, ☎ 62 363 23400 (mailto:info@tulambenwreckdivers.com). Dive resort only 200 metres from the USS Liberty wreck site. Wide range of accommodation here to suit all budgets. US$ 20 to 120.

Splurge
Emerald Tulamben, Tulamben, ☎ +62-363-22925, [23]. Luxury dive resort located close to the USS Liberty wreck. Offer a range of diving packages and accommodation from double rooms to a private two bedroom villa. From US$ 126.
Villa Flamboyant, Banyuning, ☎ +62 828 3722636 or +43 6764003869 (hatala@utanet.at). A five bedroom private villa set back on the hillside with great ocean views. On the upper floor, there are 4 double bedrooms with their own bathrooms. From the terrace, you have a lovely view of the mountains, the garden and the ocean. In the morning, you can see the sun rise and watch the many fishing boats out on the sea. Fully staffed and serviced.

Contact

Phone lines are limited in the area and most hotels only have one landline each. It is wise to bring a mobile phone when visiting if you need to stay in touch with the outside world. Local Indonesian SIM cards can be purchased in thousands of places around Bali. There is a public telephone office at Lipah Beach close to Coral View bungalows.

Internet coverage was non-existent until quite recently but is getting much better with several hotels investing in their own ADSL backbones. Public internet facilties are available at Amed Cafe in Amed village and Anda Amed and Dancing Dragon, both in Bunutan. Coverage is expanding fast though and any visitor should look out for public internet cafe signs.

Get out

Lovina beach in north Bali is a good next stop for more quiet coastal life.
Mount Agungwith lots of trekking options and Besakih Temple, is just 30 to 40 minutes from Amed.
A journey back to South Bali will take about 2 hours and 30 minutes.

LEGIAN

Legian is a beachfront town in South Bali, located north of Kuta and south of Seminyak.

Stretching north from Kuta, Legian offers the same easy access to shops and bars but a slightly more relaxed and less chaotic feeling. The northern area of Legian bordering Seminyak offers a bit of an escape from the crowds and is also a popular surf beach.

This is a small area fronting the beach which stretches from Jalan Melasti (where Kuta ends) north to Jalan Arjuna (where Seminyak begins). Most of the popular Legian hotels are on or close to the beach. The whole of Legian is no bigger than a few blocks in a large city but despite its small size, this area has a very high profile with visitors due to the lovely beach frontage and proliferation of mid-market hotels.

There is a long north-south boulevard between the beachfront hotels and the beach which is only open for authorised vehicles when there is a ceremony being held. Otherwise it is a well paved footpath and makes for an excellent walking route giving users the advantage of any easy beach-side stroll along to restaurants, bars and and to the nightclubs at the end of Jalan Arjuna.

How to Get in

The airport is located south of Legian and a taxi or car journey from there will take about will take about 20 minutes. A pre-paid coupon taxi fare from the airport is Rp 55,000.

Kuta and Seminyak are either side of Legian and you can walk, drive or bike in from both those areas. The main road is Jalan Legian which can get very jammed indeed as it serves Legian, Kuta and Seminyak. All roads to the beach run perpendicular to Jalan Legian.

How to go around

Most of Legian can be covered on foot if you are not in a hurry but taxis are plentiful as are motorbike rental outlets. Expect to pay Rp 50,000 to 80,000 per day for renting a motorbike.

What you can see

Aside from the obvious (the gorgeous beach!), there is not a great deal to see in Legian. It is a place where visitors stay, shop, eat, drink and go to the beach. Legian Beach is one of the best in Bali for viewing the sunset.

What you can do

Head into the ocean with boogie boards (Rp 20,000/hour) and surfboards hired from at beach or take surfing lessons from the Surf School based at Blue Ocean beach. Quiksilver surf school offers lessons lasting 2.5 hours for Rp 390,000 (+62 361 791 2220. They also rent boards by the hour for Rp 50,000 per hour but if you have taken lessons with them, you can get a reduced rate of Rp 20,000 per hour. If renting from locals on the beach, be sure to use this fact to get a good price.

Have a manicure, pedicure or hair braiding all while you relax under your ocean view sun umbrella.

Take a break from the beach for lunch at one of the reasonably priced restaurants on the beachfront.

Watch the stunning sunset over an arak madu (local spirit with honey and lime) or a Bintang (local beer).

Have dinner at Blue Ocean restaurant which has live music on Friday nights.

On Saturday and Sunday evenings, the beachfront is packed with tourists, expats, locals and motorbikes, with fire pois and musicians jamming on the beach - you'll be more than welcome to join in.

Play football on the beach. Almost every evening at about 5PM a game of beach football begins right in front of de ja vu. Visitors are normally welcomed if they want to join in.

Souvenir

Legian is crammed full of shops selling everything from the latest designer surfware to Balinese souvenirs to take home. This is a shopping destination.

There are two markets on Jalan Melasti. Close to the beach at the western end there is a large art market selling Balinese handicrafts and other items for tourists. You could easily buy all of your presents to take home in one visit here. At the eastern end where Jalan Melasti becomes Jalan Sri Wijaya, there is a morning fresh produce market which opens from about 5AM.

Find food

Legian's beachfront restaurants are popular spots for sunset and people watching.

Budget
You can get bakso (soup with meat balls), mie goreng (fried noodles) and nasi goreng (fried rice) from the small warungs (outdoor cafe's) on the beach. Very cheap and very tasty.

Mid-range
Fresh Warung, Jl Legian, Legian (Just south of Jl Melasti, right next door to Crown Restaurant), ☎ +62 813 37573332. Fresh Warung specialises in local & international dishes. It is small but cheerful, clean & serves up well-priced quality food. Nice cold beers too!
Lanai, Jl Blue Ocean (Jl Pantai Legian) , +62 361 731 305. On the site that used to be Benny's Cafe, Lanai serves up big portions and has great views of the beach from the upstairs balcony.
Seaside, Jl Pantai Legian, No14. This used to be called Cafe Warna. Now only open from mid afternoon. Food is good and they have great bar. Closest restaurant to Hotel Jayakarta.
Tekor Bali, Jl Blue Ocean (Jl Pantai Legian). +62 361 735 268. Their Indonesian menu is excellent and all food is beautifully presented. An excellent choice for breakfast on the beach.
Waroeng Asia, Jl Arjuna No23. [mailto:tradewindsbali@hotmail.com), +62 361 742 0202. Popular Thai restaurant with very affordable prices. Great range of mid-priced meals (Rp 15,000-Rp 65,000).
Zanzibar, Jl Blue Ocean (Jl Pantai Legian), +62 361 733 529. A well-established restaurant with excellent international cuisine and especially good pasta dishes. Right on Blue Ocean Beach. A great spot to watch all the action whilst enjoying a high quality meal.

Find Drink

de ja vu, Jalan Blue Ocean 7X (''Jalan Pantai Legian''), Legian (go to the beach end of Jalan Double Six, turn left and it is 50 metres on the left hand side), ☎ +62 361 733 777. A very happening beach-side dance bar. Popular with the pre Double Six crowd from about midnight until 3AM. Lightweight clubwear is appropriate here and they can get sniffy about singlets and sandals. Check local listings for special events and name DJs.
Jaya Pub, Jl Legian (junction of Jl Legian and Jl Nakula - down a small lane, well signed), ☎ +62 361 730937. This live music bar has been around forever and gives a distinct impression of being stuck in a timewarp. Still, the bands are fun and beer is cheap.

Check in

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under US$ 25
Mid-range US$ 25 to 130
Splurge Over US$ 130


Squeezed between Kuta and Seminyak this area has a wide variety of accommodation options especially in the mid range market. Legian is a bit more upmarket compared to the surfer and backpacker oriented Kuta but distinctly downmarket from hip Seminyak.

Budget
Blue Ocean, Jl Blue Ocean (''Jl Pantai Legian''), Legian. This legendary surfie hangout from the 70's remains an oasis in the midst of the many mid range hotels on Legian beachfront and beyond. For Rp 120,000/night you can get a large room with a couple of single beds or a double, an outdoor bathroom and kitchen facilities. Of course there's no pool (but the beach is right on the doorstep), you'll only get one thin blanket, toilet rolls and towels (only if you ask) and a noisy fan. No extra charge for mosquitoes and dust. For Rp 30,000 more you can get air-conditioning. The place has an ambience all of its own and the staff are a delight - once you get through the door. Depending who's on duty you are likely to be told the place is 'full' but be persistent, there's nearly always a room available.
Su's Cottages I, Jl Pura Bagus Taruna ('' Jl Werkadura'') No 532, ☎ +62 361 730324 (fax: +62 361 762202). This popular hotel has several rooms, a pool and friendly staff. It's located only 3 minutes from Legian's beach. The cheapest rooms go for Rp 170,000 and come with hot water, breakfast and TV. For a bit more you can get air conditioning as well. A lot of long stay expats here.

Mid-range
Mid-range accommodation abounds in Legian and there is an almost endless selection. Shop around and look for the best deals. Outside of the peak seasons you can get substantial discounts from decent beachfront hotels in this area.
All Seasons (formerly the Bali Dwira Hotel), (Jl Padma Utara), ☎ +62 361 752840. A bright and breezy contemporary hotel. In-house spa, restaurant and bar and a large swimming pool. Excellent value for money and in a very convenient location. From US$73.
Bali Mandira, Jl Padma No.2, Legian, ☎ +62 361 751381. Nicely situated hotel at the beach end of Jl Padma. Beach views and good dining options.
Bali Matahari Hotel, Jl Melasti, Gang Lebak Bene, Legian, ☎ +62 361 763707 (reservations@hotelbalimatahari.com). 44 rooms with basic amenities, facilities include restaurant, swimming pool, with WiFi connectivity. From US$33. edit
Hotel Jayakarta, Jl Werkudara, Legian, ☎ +62 361 751433. Huge hotel with is a long time favourite with Aussie and Kiwi familes especially. It has seen better days and is looking more than a bit tired. Also have a club section which offers managed timeshare service apartments with kitchens. One and two bedroom units available for nightly rental from Rp 850,000.
The Island Hotel, Jl Padma Utara, Gang Abdi #18, Legian, ☎ +62 361 762722 (reservations@theislandhotelbali.com). Boutique accommodation featuring 10 luxurious double rooms (with facilities that include cable TV, ensuite, super comfy beds) & for the budget conscious, a dorm (US$25) that includes (personal locker, super comfy beds, very spacious.) Hotel features wi-fi throughout, infinity pool, cafe, yoga studio and massage services. From US$60.
Kumala Pantai, Jl Werkudara, Legian, ☎ +62 361 755500 (kumalapt@indosat.net.id). A very good value mid-range option on the beach. The standard of service and decor is high for such a reasonably priced hotel. From Rp 600,000.
Puri Raja, Jl Padma Utara, Legian, ☎ +62 361 755902 ), (sales@puriraja.com). Recently refurbished , pleasant grounds , good value and has loyal regulars.
Rama Garden Hotel, Jl Padma, Legian. This place has been around a long time and has well appointed rooms and notably good service.

Splurge
Bali Niksoma, Jl Padma Utara, Legian, ☎ +62 371 751946. A boutique hotel on the beach which would happily be at home in chic Seminyak. Beautifully designed with top quality spa, restuarant and large pool. The rooms are very contemporary in design and decoration. Forty four rooms in the main building and then several detached cottages including a private 2 bedroom villa.
The Padma Hotel, Jl Padma No1, Legian (right on the beach at the end of Jl Padma), (reservation@padmaresortbali.com). It has perhaps seen better days and there are signs of an extensive refurbishment and re-branding program. That would be good news as this hotel is in a fabulous spot right on the beach. In-house spa, gym and restaurant. Fronm US$ 220.
Outrigger OCN Apartments, Jl Blue Ocean (''Jl Pantai Legian'') 88x, Legian, ☎ +62 361 737400. A huge luxury apartment hotel right on the beach. Offers one and two bedroom apartments with full 4 star standard hotel facilities. From US$ 197.
Villa Naga Maya, Jl Werkudara, Gg Arjuna 7B, Legian, ☎ +62 361 763387, [14]. These holiday villas have resort amenities and provide nice gardens, elegant pools and a traditional Balinese atmosphere. The swimming pool has a unique water curtain and is surrounded by lush tropical landscaping. Nestled back in the quite lanes of Legian, 400 metres from Legian Beach. From $US150.

Get out

The international airport is only a 20 minute drive from Legian and once you are out of the often congested streets close to the beach, this area is well connected to the main road network of the island.

PADANG BAI

Padang Bai (also Padangbai and Padang Bay) is a small port town in East Bali.
Visitors to Padang Bai are normally there to catch the ferry to Lombok. It is though a charming little place in its own right and spending a night or two here will certainly not be time wasted. Accommodation tends to be quite basic.

How to Get in

By car
Padang Bai is 54km east from Denpasar and takes about 1 hour to drive to from the southern tourist areas of Kuta and Legian.
By bus
The national tour bus company Perama has Padang Bai in its network. They will pick you up from your accommodation in many areas of Bali and take you to your destination. Reserve one day in advance.
Regular bemos ply the main east coast route between Klungkung, Padang Bai and . Bemos routed through Padang Bai leave from Batubulan terminal in Denpasar.

By boat
There are slow public ferries from Lembar, (Lombok) every hour. The trip normally takes four hours (but it can be considerably longer in poor weather) and costs Rp 35,000. Ferry staff often offer their private room to tourists for an extra Rp 50,000. The room is clean and comfortable with 2 or 3 beds. This service runs 24 hours a day. It should be understood that this ferry has a poor safety record. Perama Tour also runs daily cruises from Lombok to Padang Bai for Rp 200,000 one way.
Gili Cat and Perama operate services from the Gili Islands to Padang Bai, see that article for details.

Overview

Padang Bai is a beautiful, small, friendly village but sadly a lot of people do not stop to enjoy the life here. You do not really need any transport as everything is within walking distance but if you do decide you need a motorbike, plenty are available for rent.

What you can see

The main beach is generally awash with colorful double outrigger fishing boats in the shape of a marlin. The front of the boat is shaped with the point of its mouth open wide and large eyes looking to the heavens.

What you can do

Either side of the main beach are two other coves with nice, quiet white sand beaches:
To reach the secluded Bias Tegul Beach, back out of the the main beach cross the ferry carpark and turn west up the road next to the police station. Keep going up the hill until you see the sign to the beach on the right. Be careful on this hillside track. Before you head down into the cove turn around. Weather permitting you should be able to see the largest mountain on Bali, Mount Agung - a powerful sight.
To reach Blue Lagoon beach, head east on foot over the prominent headland at the eastern end of the main bay. Good snorkeling here and many of the local dive operators organise trips to this spot. If the waves are large, don't bother snorkeling as the current is extremely strong and visibility will be 1 to 3 metres at best. On a calm day expect lots of fish and great visibility. Buoys mark the furthest point snorkelers should go.

Padangbai is noted for its diving and the friendly dive centres are right on the beach with their own bars for after-diving refreshments.
Bali Dive, Jl Pantai Silayulkti, ☎ +62 363 42088. Located on the northern beach front at Padang Bai Beach Resort bungalows. SSI teaching centre.
Geko Dive, Jl Pantai Silayulkti, ☎ +62 363 41516 (gekodive@indosat.net.id). PADI dive centre which has been awarded GoEco operator status by Project Aware. Offer full range of courses and fun dives. English and Dutch speaking instructors.
Waterworx, Jln Pantai Silayulkti, ☎ +62 363 41220 (info@waterworxbali.com). SSI dive centre. German and English speaking instructors.

Find food

Bamboo Cafe is a lovely place to eat great and healthy food - they use bottled Aqua water for shakes etc. The cafe has been newly built mostly from bamboo and you can enjoy surprisingly good live rock and local music played by the very friendly and fun staff. It has also 3 nice aircon rooms. From the police station keep walking up the hill in the direction of Bias Tugal beach and after 100 metres find this cafe on the left hand side of the road.

Find Drink

There are plenty of bars and small cafes to choose from along the beach in the village. On entering Padang Bai, head over to the left of the Bay, keeping the ferry jetty to your right. The road here runs along the beach and is full of activity, dive shops, bars and small home stays (nice and cheap).

In the evening there are a few bars actually on the beach - notably "The Reggae Bar" which livens up at about 10PM. They have great music and flame wielding bar staff. After a while you forget the plastic chairs that wobble in the sand as the setting is just unique.

Check in

Dharma Homestay,. Cheap accommodation with roof top beach view. Aimed at backpackers.
Marco Polo Inn, Jalan Silayulkti, ☎ +62 813 37710821. Once a very run down establishment it has now been renovated. Run by two elderly Ausie expats. Has a roof top garden overlooking the bay, all rooms with their own bathrooms and friendly staff
Mustika Sari Beach Hotel, Jalan Silayulkti, ☎ +62 361 8528521 (reservation@mustikasaribeach.com). Offering nice sea views this budget hotel has a decent sized swimming pool and a passable restaurant. Traditional paintings, wall hangings and Balinese handicrafts in the rooms are nice tocuhes. From Rp 300,000.
Puri Rai Hotel, Jalan Silayukti, (reservation@puriraihotel.com). A 1 star hotel with a swimming pool and decent restaurant serving Indonesian food. This is probably the nicest hotel in town and prices follow suit. From US$ 31.
Padang Bai Beach Resort, (reservation@padang-bai-beach-resort.com). Pleasant enough rooms with a sea view. Has a purpose built dive pool and a decent restaurnat attached.
Serangan Inn II, (on the hill reached by following the road alongside the market), ☎ +62 363 41425. A budget hotel on top of the hill which catches good breezes. Choice of fan-cooled annd air-con rooms. From Rp 150,000.
Zen Inn, (just behind the port), ☎ +62 819 33092012 (liam@padang-bai.com). A small boutique hotel situated near the ferry port and and the beach. Each room is furnished in a funky, eclectic style with double bed, western bathroom and a private courtyard garden with additional outside shower. Also bar and restaurant serving western and asian food using local ingredients. Fish is fresh from the local fish market. Free WiFi in all rooms and the restaurant. $15.

Get out

By ferry to Lembar, Lombok.
Easy drive or bus transfer to the popular East Bali areas of Candidasa, Mount Agung and Amed.

TULAMBEN

Tulamben is a village which grew into a tourist attraction because it has the potential of diverse sea. Located in the village of Tulamben, Kubu district, in northern Karangasem about ± 25 km from City Amlapura - the district capital -, 37 km from Candidasa attractions, and about 82 km from Denpasar City.

Access to convenient location because its location on the edge of the highway Amlapura - Singaraja. Tulamben later developed into a tourist area that includes 2 sub-districts, namely the village of Tulamben in Kubu district; Datah Village, Labasari Village, Village Culik, Purwakerti village, and Bunutan village in the district Abang.

Tulamben main attraction is the natural potential of the exotic underwater for diving and snorkeling activities because of the clear water conditions throughout the year and the current calm. At a depth of 30 meters below the sea there is the framework of the ship "U.S. Liberty", an American merchant ship sunk by a submarine torpedo hit Japan on January 11, 1942 when the voyage across the Straits of Lombok. Diving in the deep shipwrecks of Liberty is the best reason for the divers who come to Tulamben. It is estimated there are about 400 species of reef fish inhabit these shipwrecks and visited about 100 species of sea fish (pelagic).

It is also called the reef paradise full of surprises for marine animals that appear, such as the type of ribbon eel, mimic octopus, boxer crabs, ghost pipefish, seahorse, leaf fish, garden eel, lion fish, harlequin shrimp, and other types that are not usually also be found here. While a large collection of jack fish whose numbers up to hundreds tail always enliven this shipwreck, and they are very friendly to divers.

KLUNGKUNG

Klungkung, also known as Semarapura, is a town in East Bali.

This is the administrative capital of the regency with the same name. The town is of great historical, cultural and artistic significance.

Gelgel just to the south of Klungkung was the seat of the mighty Majapahit empire in the 15th and 16th century which moved to Klungkung itself in the 17th century. This was a golden age for art and culture in Bali and Klungkung was the centre of it all.

More recently, Klungkung forever made its mark in modern Balinese history when in 1908 it was the last kingdom holding out against the Dutch invaders. Hopelessly outnumbered and outgunned, the king of Klungkung (the Dewa Agung or great god) led 200 members of his family and court in a puputan (ritual march to death) into the face of the Dutch guns. All of the group were either killed or committed ritual suicide.

How to get in

Few visitors stay in Klungkung but it is town that many pass through as it lies on the main route between between Ubud and points east to Padang Bai, Candidasa and beyond. The town is about 25 km south east from Ubud. Make a point of stopping here for a few hours and you will not be disappointed.

This is a small town and orientation is not difficult. The town is centred on a crossroads in the middle of which is the large Kanda Pat statue. If you are driving yourself, use this as your key landmark.

What you can see

Gunarsa Museum of Classical & Modern Art (Museum Seni Lukis Klasik Bali), Takmung village (5 km west of the town centre on the main road to Gianyar). Owned by Nyoman Gunarsa, one of Bali's most famous modern artists, and exhibits his work. Also of great interest is a huge collection of traditional Balinese art and other objects. Really worth a visit and gets far less visitors than it deserves. Rp 25,000.
Kamasan village, (head south out of the town on Jalan Puputan towards Gelgel. Kamasan is signposted on the left). This ancient village is the centre of the classical wayang style of painting. Many studios to visit and a large amount of art to appreciate.

Puputan Monument, (at the crossroads in the town centre of Klungkung). This monument commemorates the 200 Balinese from the Klungkung royal family and court who died in the sacrificial puputan when fighting the Dutch in 1908. The large four sided statue in the centre of the same crossroads is the Kandi Pat Sare which symbolically guards the four cardinal points of the earth.
Pura Masceti, Jl Prof Dr Ida Bagus Mantra, Pantai Masceti, Gianyar (from Klungkung head 7km south east to Kusamba where you turn west on the main bypass road which eventually leads back to Sanur. Pura Masceti is located beachside after about 15 km). This is the least well known and the least visited of Bali's nine directional temples which serves as a guardian to the island from evil sea spirits. It is an elabaorately decorated temple and is often the start point for large purification ceremonies on the nearby beaches.

River Unda, (east of Klungkung). This is one of Bali's major rivers and you travel over it via a large bridge when leaving the town heading towards Padang Bai.
Taman Gili, Jalan Puputan, Klunkung. The remains of the original palace of the Klungkung royal family. Especially notable is the painted ceiling of the Kerta Gosa pavilion as this is the only surviving example of classical wayang art in the whole of Bali. Much of the rest of the palace was destroyed when fighting the Dutch in the early 20th century but there are some other interesting remnants. The local government tourist office is also located here. Rp 5,000.

What you can dob

Try to take it all in. This is a town rich in history and culture. In the 17th century, the whole of Bali, Java, Lombok and Sumbawa was ruled by the royal court here.

Souvenirs

Wayang art in the village of Kamasan.
Klungkung is the best place in Bali to buy traditional gongs.

Find food

Plenty of small local restaurants in the town centre and an excellent night market on Jalan Gunung Rinjani.

Check in

Very few visitors stay the night in Klungkung choosing instead the nearby beachfront towns of Candidasa and Padang Bai, just 20 to 30 minutes to the south.
Klungkung Tower Hotel, Jalan Gunung Rinjani, Klungkung, ☎ +62 366 25637, .

Get out

Klungkung is conveninetly located to reach Ubud (25 km to the north) and the south eastern coastal towns of Padangbai and Candidasa.

CANDIDASA

Candidasa is a coastal town in East Bali.

The stretch of coastline from Manggis through Candidasa town itself and east to Bugbug is normally just referred to as Candidasa.

This is a laid back and very relaxing area of Bali with a wide range of accommodation options. Many visitors, especially Europeans, combine a stay in the hotspots of south Bali with a more relaxed break here.

The black sand beaches are very narrow and often disappear altogether at high tide.
Government Tourist Office: Jl Raya Candidasa (close to the lotus lagoon). Tel: +62 363 41204.

How to get in

Candidasa is 60 to 80 minutes from Sanur along the recently opened east coast road and is also easily reached from Ubud. A direct trip from the airport will take about 90 minutes. Candidasa is about 20 minutes further east from Padang Bai where public ferries from Lombok arrive.

Candidasa is well served by the national Perama bus company and there is a local office on the main road next to the police station.

As elsewhere in Bali, motor-bikes for rent are easily found in Candidasa. There are very few formal metered taxis but plenty of private cars ready to get you around - fix the charge in advance. Bemos ply the main coast road with some regularity.

What you can see

The Bali Aga at Tenganan

In the hills just 4 km inland from Candidasa at Tenganan is the most famous Bali Aga (original Balinese) village. There is another (distinct) Bali Aga community in the village of Trunyan on the shores of Lake Batur near Kintamani, but visitors are advised that Tenganan is much easier to reach and far more welcoming of outsiders.

The Bali Aga people have retained an ancient pre-Majapahit Balinese culture and this is apparent in the many obvious differences from the rest of Bali which you will find in Tenganan. The villagers maintain a strict adherence to ancestor worship, cosmology and other animist beliefs as well as a rigid social organization. Villagers must live inside the village and marry from within. Tenganan is closed to outsiders after dark. The dialect of Balinese spoken here is heard nowhere else and differs substantially from even the other Bali Aga community in Trunyan.

This is an isolated community in almost every way. The village is separated from the rest of the world by a solid stone wall that entirely encompasses the village. There are four gates in the wall, one for each point of the compass. All houses are exactly alike and aligned either side of natural stone pathways. Each house is accessed by a flight of steps and then a simple gate which opens into a courtyard around which are arranged the bedrooms, the kitchen and a longhouse which serves as a store. Each house has its own empty shrine where it is believed ancestor spirits reside when they visit their descendants.

The focus point of the village is the 70 foot long Bali Agung where the village elders meet to discuss matters of concern. This structure is clearly very old but nobody seems to know just how old. The major communal village temple is the Pura Puseh (the temple of origin) and this actually lies outside the village walls just to the north.

Tenganan produces some of the finest woven basket-ware and a fabled double weave ikat fabric, called Geringsing. This fabric is extraordinarily complex and fine pieces fetch enormous prices in the international markets. Collectors of Geringsing have very deep pockets.

A local custom that has been become a popular tourist spectacle involves ritual blood sacrifice whereby combatants fight using wickedly thorned pandan leaves. The aim of each participant is to draw blood from their opponent. This ritual combat is known as mekare kare and is scheduled whenever there is an important temple ceremony in Tenganan. An elaborate feast follows.

Goa Lawah temple and bat cave is one of Bali's key nine directional temples and serves as a guardian against dark spirits from the ocean. The cave here is a well known bat roost. On the north side of the coast road about 10 km west of Candidasa

There is a quiet and little visited black sand beach west of Candidasa proper called Pantai Labuan Amok. Although it has an unsightly Pertamina oil terminal at one end, this is a clean beach in a pretty bay and the offshore waters offer good snorkeling with live coral in shallow waters. There are many other small coves and bays to explore in this area and all visitors are encouraged to do so.

The lotus lagoon in the middle of town can be a spectacular sight if you are lucky with timing. The main town temple is right opposite and its origins are thought to go back to the 11th century.

The beautiful water palace at Tirta Gangga is owned by the Karangasem Royal Family and is about 20 minutes northeast of Candidasa proper just to the north of Karangasem town. Stunning rice paddy terraces in this area as well.

What you can do

Visit the nearby village of Tenganan where a strong community which retains ancient pre-Majapahit Balinese culture and known as the Bali Aga (literally, the original Balinese) resides. The village is signposted from the main coast road in Candidasa. All drivers will know the way here. Alternatively grab a lift from Candidasa on a motorbike or stroll the 4 km track. A small admission charge to the village will be charged.

Candidasa is a good starting point for arranging a climb of Mount Agung. Your hotel will be able to help with arranging a guide. There are also numerous less arduous trekking options in the nearby hills.

This is a renowned diving area with good sites close offshore as well as around the nearby islands of Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan. The close offshore rocky islets of Gili Kambing, Gili Biaha and Gili Mimpang offer superb but demanding diving which is only really suitable for more experienced divers. Currents are very strong here. Expect large manta rays and even mola mola in season.
Divelite, Jl Raya Candidasa, ☎ +62 363 41660 (info@divelite.com). Dive operator serving Japanese visitors. Website and instruction is in Japanese.
Shangrila Scuba Divers, ☎ +62 813 37335081 (divingatbalishangrila@yahoo.com). PADI dive centre offering full range of course and fun dives. Located a little out of the way but have a booking desk in town. British owned and managed.
Sub Ocean Bali Divers, Jl Sengkidu (on the beach lane at Senkidu which is close to the Tenganan turn off), ☎ +62 363 41411 (info@suboceanbali.com). PADI dive centre offering a fullrange of courses and fun dives. English and Dutch speaking instructors.
Yes Dive, Jalan Raya Candidasa,, ☎ +62 363 41982 (info@yes-dive.com). PADI and SSI dive centre. Also offer nitrox dives.

What you can buy

Most of the finer woven basketware found in Bali is produced in villages around Candidasa. If you buy here you are directly supporting the makers.

The famous double ikat fabric Geringsing is produced and sold in Tenganan village.

Find Food

There are a host of waterside or ocean view cafes along the main coastal road in Candidasa.

A local speciality food is Satay Lilit, a minced fish satay. Look for streetside vendors.
Aquaria Bali, Jl Puri Bagus, ☎ +62 363 41127 (info@aquariabali.com). A small beachside restauianrt specialising in light, healthy food.
Kedai, Jl Raya Candidasa, (+62 363 42020). A chic restaurant and an offshoot of Ary's Warung in Ubud. Excellent food but you do pay up for it.
Kubu Bali, Jl Raya Candidasa, ☎ +62 363 41532 (info@kububali.com). 8AM to 10PM. Large beachfront restaurant specialising in seafood. Located at the Kubu Bali Hotel. Guest can use the swimming pool.
Legong Restaurant, Jl Raya Candidasa, ☎ +62 363 41052. Good quality local food and a nightly Legong dance peformance to accompany dinner.
Lotus Sea View, ☎ +62 363 41257 (lotusseaview@lotus-restaurants.com). Part of a well known chain in Bali. Superb waterfront location just to the west of Candidasa proper. Local Balinese specialities and western staples at mid-range prices.
Raja's, ☎ +62 363 42034. Right by the lagoon and is a very popular tourist restaurant for the nightly movies as much as the food.
TJ's, ☎ +62 363 41540. In the centre of Candidasa at The Watergarden. Has been around for many years and serves decent Mexican and local food.
Vincent's Bali, Jl Raya Candidasa (close to the lagoon, next to Raja's), ☎ +62 363 41368. Pleasant restaurant and bar serving international and local cuisine. Good vegetarian options. Expect to hear lots of laid back jazz music.

Find Drink

Virtually all of the local cafes double as bars but this is not an area in which expect any nightlife to speak of.

Legenda is in the centre of town close to the lotus lagoon and is the only venue in Candidasa that has regular live music.

Chek in

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under Rp 250,000
Mid-range Rp 250,000-1,000,000
Splurge Over Rp 1,000,000


Candidasa is an area of Bali with a range of accommodation from the most simple of bungalows to world renowned five star resorts.

Budget
Fajar Candidasa Hotel, ☎ +62 363 41538, 41539. Simple and pleasant bungalows in an excellent waterfront location. from US$ 25.
Puri Oka Beach Bungalows, Jl Puri Bagus, ☎ +62 363 41092 (info@purioka.com). Extremely good value hotel in a great location right on the beach close to the Puri Bagus Resort. Should note that the cheapest rooms are not air-conditioned and have no hot water. However, this is a really good value option for the budget traveller. From US$ 15.
Sindhu Brata Inn, ☎ +62 0363 41825. Fantastic location right on the beach, just to the east of the lotus lagoon. Airconditioned and fan-cooled bungalows wih a simple resaurant attached

Mid-range
Alam Asmara Dive & Resort (formerly called Pandawa), Jalan Raya Candidasa, Karangasem, ☎ +62 361 8528521. .Beachfront dive resort. US$ 70.
Bali Santi Bungalows, ☎ +62 363 41611. Individual waterfront bungalows. A charming established hotel with a decent oceanfront restaurant. from US$ 60.
Balina Beach Bungalows, Balina Beach, Mangis, ☎ +62 363 42164 (balinaresort@yahoo.com). This was a run down property but has a new lease of life with new management and a sparkling renovation. Individual bungalows and restaurant very close to the beach with a bar right on the beach. Lovely quiet spot and a good choice in this price bracket. From €46.
Dewa Bharata, ☎ +62 361 977086 (office in Ubud) (info@dewabharatahotels.com). Double storey buildings with the cheaper rooms downstairs. Nice pool and decent restaurant, direct beach frontage. Good location on the beach just to the east of the lotus lagoon. From US$ 65.
Lotus Bungalows, ☎ +62 363 41104. Small resort aimed especially at divers with an in-house dive operation called Gangga Divers. On the main coast road in Candidasa.
Nirwana Resort and Spa, ☎ +62 363 41136. Charming small resort with 18 bungalows and an in-house spa. from US$ 80.
Puri Bagus,. A 3 star resort hotel on the eastern side of Candidasa. from US$ 75.
Rama Candidasa, Jl Raya Sengkidu,, ☎ +62 363 41974 (rservation@ramacandidasahotel.com). Good mid-market beachfront resort. All rooms have private balconies and the hotel has a large pool, in-house spa and notably good restaurant which attracts plenty of outside patrons From US$ 55. edit

Splurge
Alila Hotel ((formerly The Serai)), Manggis, ☎ +62 363 41 011. Five star resort property with 55 rooms on the waterfront at Manggis. Superb ambience and a great restaurant.
Amankila, ☎ +62 363 41333. A super luxury resort in the village of Manggis, just west of Candidasa proper. from US$ 750.
The Watergarden, ☎ +62 363 41540,. Individual bungalows set in lush tropical water gardens. from US$ 125.

Get out

Amed is approximately 30 minutes further east from Candidasa and many visitors combine these two destinations for their visit to east Bali.
The ferry to Lombok leaves from Padang Bai which is about 15 minutes west from here.