MOUNT AGUNG

Towering 3,142 metres above sea level, Mount Agung is the highest mountain on the island of Bali and the fifth highest in the whole of Indonesia.

Mount Agung has huge spiritual significance to the people of the island, and is home to the 'Mother Temple' of Besakih. It forms part of a chain of volcanos that make up the back bone of Bali.

Balinese legend has it that Agung was created when the Hindu God Pasupati split Mount Meru (the spiritual axis of the universe) and formed Mount Agung with a fragment.

History

Mount Agung last erupted in 1963 (see information box in this article). This was one of the largest 20th century eruptions anywhere in the world.

Historical eruptions of the volcano are poorly recorded but there was certainly one in the 1820s.

At lower elevations the mountain is covered in lush forest but this soon gives way to a desolate landscape of barren volcanic rock and ash scree. From the peak of Mount Agung the views are extraordinary in all directions but perhaps most dramatic to the east where the sun rises above Mount Rinjani on Lombok.
The Events of 1963

Mount Agung last erupted in 1963, causing devastation in the eastern part of Bali and beyond.

Ancient Balinese texts demand that the most important of Balinese Hindu rituals, the Eka Dasa Rudra, is performed every 100 years to purify our world. Such a ceremony was scheduled at Besakih temple in 1963. In February Mount Agung started to rumble and high priests argued that this was a bad omen from the Gods and that the wrong date had been scheduled for the ceremony. By this time though President Sukarno had arranged to attend with a group of foreign dignatories and he ordered that the event must go ahead.

On March 8th the mountain was in a full pre-eruption phase and on March 18th it blew with such force that the top 100 metres or more was blasted away. Lava spewed over much of eastern Bali, a devastating gas cloud swept across villages and ash destroyed all crops. Up to 2,000 people are thought to have died and tens of thousands of homes were destroyed. Quite remarkably, the mother temple of Besakih perched high on the slopes of the mountain was relatively untouched by this event further fuelling the local spritual reasoning for the eruption. Further, many Balinese argued that this eruption was a portent of dreadful things to come and felt vindicated when the whole nation was plunged into civil crisis in 1965.

The cleansing rituals from the 1963 ceremonies were finally finished at Besakih in 1979.

Flora and fauna

Wild pigs and macaques abound on the forested slopes of Mount Agung. Birdlife is impressive including frequent sightings of hawks and eagles but is not as obvious and easy to observe as in the West Bali National Park.

Climate

The best time to climb Mount Agung is in the dry season of April to October. January and February should certainly be avoided if possible due to heavy rain and possible flooding and even landslides in the area.

At lower elevations it remains tropical but becomes distinctly cold and often windy on the high bare rock slopes.

How to get in

Mount Agung is most commonly approached from the south via Klungkung and Candidasa, from the west via Besakih or from the east via Tirta Gangga and Karangasem. The east coast road north from Amed through Tulamben and onto Singaraja provides some awe-inspiring views of the mountain across flat rubble plans.

Fees/Permits

Mount Agung is viewed as sacred and for that reason is off limits to climbers during important ceremonies. Your guide will know and will also be able to obtain any necessary permissions from temple administrators for which some nominal donation may be required.

Guide fees may vary between about Rp 400,000 and Rp 1,000,000 depending on how you arrange the guide, the route taken and the level of English expected. Generally it is possible to put all arrangements in place once you reach Bali, but for peace of mind you might want to make contact with guides before you leave home. Some guides speak far better English than others.

There are three climbing routes up the mountain, all are difficult and unless you are physically fit do not even attempt any of these climbs.

Climbing Routes

From Besakih (west). This is a demanding climb starting close to Besakih temple. The ascent will take about 6 to 7 hours and ends at the very highest point of the mountain. The final hour or so is exceptionally demanding often requiring ascent on all fours. A sensible start time is about 11 PM so that you arrive at the top before dawn and wait for the sunrise. Allow as long to get down as it took you to get up.

From Pura Pasar Agung (south). A three to four hour climb in which time you ascend about 2,000 metres. Not so stiff as the Besakih route. The route ends about 100 metres below the actual summit but the views are excellent in all directions as well as down into the actual crater. A sensible start time would be about 2.30 AM, again with aim of reaching the peak just before dawn.

From Duku Bujangga Sakti (north). A less used route but one which is most appropriate for less experienced climbers and the slightly less physically fit. The ascent starts at 300 metres and involves an overnight camp at 1,700 metres and a final ascent in the pre-dawn hours the following day. This route also allows you to walk around the rim of the crater to the absolute summit of the mountain.

Guides

The service of a local guide is absolutely essential. Guides can be arranged in advance via your hotel (especially if you are staying in Candidasa or Amed), at the Pura Pasar Agung temple close to the time of your planned climb or via the following contacts.

Gung Bawa Trekking. Gung Bawa is an experienced local Balinese guide with great reviews since 1996. He will guide you on the Besakih or Pura Pasar Agung route. Has an office in the village of Selat close to the the start of the Pura Pasar Agung trek route. About Rp 500,000 per person.

Pondok Wisata Agung is a simple losmen in the village of Selat and they offer guides for the southern ascent from about Rp 400,000. Tel: +62 366 23037.

MG Trekking at Balina Beach in Candidasa specialise in the little used northern ascent from Duku Bujangga Sakti.

What you can see

Besakih Temple

Besakih is known as the Mother Temple of Bali. Besides being the most important temple for the whole of the island, another attraction of Besakih, actually a complex of temples, is its dramatic location on the southern slopes of Mount Agung.

Pura Pasar Agung.. One of Bali's nine directional temples which sits at the start point of one of the ascent routes up Mount Agung. Close to the village of Selat on the main road from Rendang to Karangasem.

The Sidemen/Selat area. This stunningly beautiful area is a valley in the foothills of Mount Agung on the route between Karangasem and Rendang. The drive through this area is very scenic and one of the very best in Bali.

What you can do

Apart from climbing Mount Agung, there are other far less arduous treks available in the area. Ask at your hotel for advice and arranging guides.

The area around the village of Selat provides a lot of options and local guides.

Souvenir

There is a huge complex of souvenir stalls around the entrance to Besakih.

Food

Bring in ample good food with you for your trek. Sunrise on Mount Agung accompanied by a breakfast of fresh fruit and pastries is to be recommended.

Once you start the trek there is nowhere to purchase food.

Find Drink

Once you start the trek there is nowhere to buy water so bring in enough with you. A flask of hot coffee or tea is also a good idea.

Check in

Many of the visitors who decide to climb Mount Agung stay in either Candidasa, Amed or the Tirta Gangga area.

Pondok Wisata Agung, Tel: +62 366 23037, is a losmen in Selat which specialises in simple board for climbers and provides guides.

Camping
There are no rules which prevent camping on Mount Agung and the northern ascent route requires it. If you do decide on a camping expedition it is still sensible to employ a guide and you must still check that there are no religious prohibitions of you being on the mountain at that time. It must also be remembered that Mount Agung can be very wet indeed.

Stay safe

No matter your experience, do not attempt to climb Mount Agung without a guide. The routes are difficult to follow and you are likely to get lost. Avoid climbing in the wet season and especially in January and February. You are still in the tropics but Mount Agung is a high peak and the top is often cold and windy so bring appropriate clothing.

Some mild altitude sickness is possible. Understand this condition and be aware of the symptons. It is important to drink more water than you think you need and to avoid the dehydrating effects of substances such as alchohol and caffeine for 24 hours before your planned ascent. At these elevations though, symptoms should only be minor.

Get out

Mount Agung is well connected by road to major tourist centres in Bali. The most obvious places to head to next are Candidasa, Amed and points west to Singaraja and Lovina.